“New Golden Sportiness for the Wrist”
TAG Heuer kicks off 2023 by showing its luxurious side with an 18-karat gold version of the Carrera. Inspired by the famous reference 1158 CHN from 1970, this refined racing model stands out with its black-and-gold color scheme and is powered by the in-house Heuer 02 chronograph movement. Other versions of the Carrera also show gold from its sportiest side.
The Next Evolution of the Gold Carreras
The first TAG Heuer Carrera arrived in 1963: named after the death-defying Carrera Panamericana road race in Mexico, it underscores TAG Heuer’s close ties to motorsport and has appeared in an enormous variety of models over the six decades since. The gold models of this motorsport watch have always held a special place, and their story began in 1970 with the reference 1158 CHN. Fine precious metal meets uncompromising racing – what initially sounds like a contradiction turned out to be a highly coveted symbiosis among fans. The historic model catches the eye immediately: not only its mix of radiant yellow gold and two black totalizers, but also its left-hand crown give the 1158 CHN maximum recognition value.
In 2022, TAG Heuer brought the gold-and-black Carrera back to life, but reversed the color balance: the sunny glow of the yellow gold case remains, yet the dial is now dominated by gold accents on a black background. If you pay around four times the price of a steel Carrera with an in-house movement, what you mainly notice compared with the “mortal” versions of the chronograph is the extra weight of the moderately sized 42 mm case.
A Noble Presence: Harmony Instead of Flash
After its fashion peak in the 1980s and ’90s, yellow gold acquired a dubious reputation in the watch world. Dismissed by critics as flashy and tacky, it gradually gave way to the more understated red gold and still suffers today from the image of high-gloss showing off on the wrist. The new TAG Heuer Carrera in black and gold succeeds in giving the material’s tarnished reputation a real boost. Above all on the dial, built on a black plate with a brushed sunray finish, the Swiss luxury brand stylishly proves the approachable and elegant character of yellow gold.
Featuring a smart tri-compax layout with a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, small seconds at 6 and a 12-hour register at 9, the black-and-gold look impresses with its relaxed symmetry, which even extends to the centered position of the date window. The eye-catchers are the two fully gilded totalizers, which are set noticeably recessed into the dial. The dial edge takes the opposite approach, defined by a flange with a 60-minute scale. Legibility of the two-tone palette is excellent: the polished hands and indices, plated with 18-karat yellow gold, stand out in sharp contrast against the background. The hour and minute hands are also coated with luminous material.
Heuer 02 In-House Movement: Automatic Power par Excellence
The 100 meters of water resistance of this high-end Carrera also show that, despite the luxurious positioning of the new men’s watch in gold and black, practical considerations were not neglected. The proud owner can admire sapphire crystal on both sides of the case, with the caseback offering a clear view of the chronograph’s heart. Inside ticks the widely praised in-house Heuer 02 movement, which its designers in La Chaux-de-Fonds fitted with a black winding rotor to match the color scheme. The rotor is skeletonized to expose as much of the mechanism as possible. Clear highlights of the movement are its 80-hour power reserve, the column wheel and the vertical clutch, which enable highly precise timing. Delivered on a black alligator strap with a classic yellow gold pin buckle, the new Heuer 02 Carrera wristwatch in gold and black (Ref. CBN2044.FC8313) comes in just above a manufacturer’s price of €20,000.
Black-and-Gold Automatic Chronograph 45mm
Alongside the recently unveiled Calibre HEUER 02 Automatic Chronograph 45mm in black and gold, the current Carrera line offers further highlights in the metal of kings. If you prefer the Swiss manufacturer’s progressive skeleton look, rendered in typical TAG Heuer sportiness, and aren’t put off by a 45 mm diameter, you should set your sights on Ref. CBG2A51.FC6450: through the dial it offers a clear view of the same automatic Heuer 02 movement as the newcomer, but pairing steel with gold makes it more affordable. The case middle has only a gold PVD coating, while the bezel and crown of this 100-meter water-resistant head-turner are made of 18-karat gold. The overall look of this chronograph exudes performance, and not just because of its enormous dimensions: from the tachymeter scale on the bezel to the floating aesthetic of the totalizer rings, this super watch recalls the engine bay of a race car. Dark PVD coatings on the case and a black alligator strap master the two-tone balancing act.
With Tourbillon: Calibre HEUER 02 T COSC Automatic Chronograph 45mm Black Gold
The “people’s tourbillon,” as the Calibre HEUER 02 T COSC is called because of its relative affordability compared with most other tourbillon watches, follows the black-and-gold theme of the luxury Carreras in two different looks: while reference CAR5A5U.FC6377 goes for maximum sportiness with its black titanium-ceramic bezel, the 18-karat rose gold bezel of the CAR5A5V.FC6377 radiates pure luxury. Rose is the key word here: unlike the new Carrera in black and yellow gold, the tourbillon models appeal to those who prefer warmer gold tones.
Apart from their different bezels, these high-end chronographs are virtually identical: chronograph and tourbillon are powered by the in-house HEUER 02 T movement with a 65-hour power reserve, housed in a generous 45 mm case of titanium and rose gold. The aesthetic similarities to the CBG2A51.FC6450 are considerable; the tachymeter scale and sporty bezel rings set the tone. And unlike most tourbillons found in luxury dress watches from Breguet to Blancpain, the super complication in the Carrera comes with a remarkable 100 meters of water resistance. Gravity compensation with everyday practicality – the Carrera makes it possible.
For Women: Carrera Quartz 36 mm
Sporty women with exclusive taste will also find what they’re looking for in the racing collection: reference WBG1350.FC6418 is a stylish Carrera women’s watch in gold and black that impresses on the wrist with its focused look. In this 100-meter water-resistant, full-fledged luxury watch, virtually unbeatable legibility meets a precise quartz movement, which noticeably lowers the cost of the PVD-coated stainless steel model compared with the mechanical men’s models.
The gold accents are carefully chosen to bring a glamorous liveliness to the Carrera’s otherwise dark and extremely refined overall look. If you prefer serious instruments in feminine proportions over pink fashion watches, this black-and-gold instrument is exactly right for you.