Uhrinstinkt Magazine
Vibrant colors, immense luxury: the watch year 2023 will thrill us with absolute eye-catchers right up to the highest spheres of horology. The minute hand will be reinvented, the Rainbow pattern revolutionized, and water depth records broken. We show you a selection of the most exciting time indicators that await us in the coming year.
Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838
High-end manufacture Breguet uses several patents at once to bring the watch world the first minute hand with variable length. You read that correctly: Consisting of two arms, the minute hand permanently adapts its shape to the egg-shaped dial of the Reine de Naples ladies’ collection. The hour is indicated by a rotating disk in the center. Two 18-karat white gold editions, each limited to 20 pieces, offer a symphony of exclusivity rarely exhibited by the latest watches: While the Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 contrasts its incredible depth of color of the blue mother-of-pearl dial with 161 diamonds, its sister model Breguet Reine de Naples 9838 reverses the pattern with a white dial and blue sapphires. Inside, superlative manufacture performances dominate: the freshly developed 78A0 automatic movement, assembled from 253 individual parts, has – typical of the latest watches – a silicon balance spring and crowns the luxury-class fireworks with a platinum oscillating weight.
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Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Speedster Limited Edition
From opulent luxury to sporty power, the latest 44-millimeter Belisar Chronograph Speedster limited edition from Union Glashütte combines cool retro elements with offbeat accents in yellow. Mushroom pushers, domed watch glass, railroad minute track – new watches with vintage character couldn’t be more outlandish. The absolute eye-catcher of the special edition, limited to 288 pieces, is the color separation of the dial: While the upper two-thirds are in elegant silver, the lower third is dominated by bright yellow. The latter is continued in the gaudy rubber strap of the rare time stopper; an additional nubuck leather strap with yellow accents is supplied with the Union Belisar. The steel exotic draws its power from the automatic caliber UNG-27.S1 including silicon hairspring, 65-hour power reserve and three totalizers (60 seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours).
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Longines Spirit Pioneer Edition
Neon green pioneer with titanium case: the Longines Spirit in the latest Pioneer Edition features tremendous robustness and light weight thanks to its Grade 5 titanium, which characterizes many new watches in ’23. The color accents of the 42-millimeter aviation model are exotic: in addition to the Superluminova-coated numerals, the contrasting seams of the black synthetic strap also feature neon green accents. With this tone, Longines brings life to the matte black dial, which houses the COSC-certified L688.4 automatic movement with silicon hairspring and 66-hour power reserve. If you’re looking for a classic all-rounder instrument for everyday and leisure wear with 100-meter water resistance, quick-change bracelet system, and top-notch quality, you can’t miss latest watches like the Pioneer Edition.
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Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chronograph
Geneva-based fine watchmaker Chopard presents its Alpine Eagle XL Chronograph on sporty rubber straps for the first time. Inspired by the beauty of the Alps, the chronometer-certified high-end models with flyback function are presented in two dial colors, each of which is continued in the strap: aletsch blue or deep black. In addition to the special brilliance of their in-house Lucent steel A223, the 44-millimeter sports watches also impress with their high-class mechanics: The in-house caliber 03.05-C with three patents for increased reliability as well as precision provides propulsion. While other latest 2023 watches rely on gaudy colors, the Alpine Eagle stays in the classic spectrum and combines several advantages in its fresh rubber straps: Water resistance, a soft wearing comfort, a sporty look and maximum robustness. Not only the latest watches shine with the plus points of rubber: Chopard has been creative with the elastic material since 1995.
Blancpain Villeret Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel 2023
A special highlight for sinologists and lovers of complex calendars marks the latest Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel from Blancpain, which depicts the Chinese calendar in the Year of the Water Rabbit. Since 2012, the world’s oldest luxury watch brand (founded in 1735) has cultivated the tradition of presenting a strictly limited small series with a Chinese calendar in honor of the respective sign of the zodiac. This year’s model is hard to beat in terms of exclusivity: Limited to 50 pieces, it hides its unique symbiosis of Chinese and Gregorian calendars in a 45-millimeter platinum case. On the white dial in grand-feu enamel, the double hour, signs of the zodiac, celestial tribes and the five elements of Chinese philosophy are depicted, as are a regular date, a month and a moon phase. Clever: the pushers of this complex masterpiece are hidden under the lugs.
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Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Rainbow 3D-Carbon
The fact that many latest watches will be limited to tiny numbers in the coming year is demonstrated by the eight examples of the Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Rainbow 3D-Carbon. The 49-millimeter carbon giant manages to create the rainbow pattern famous from other luxury watches (such as the Rolex Daytona) entirely without gemstones, using composite materials instead. Hundreds of colored pins create a spectacular look that stands out on the wrist, as does the manufacture caliber HUB9009.H1.RA.B with its immense dual-axis tourbillon and 120-hour power reserve.
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Anyone who doesn’t take Hublot’s engineering seriously will be proven wrong by the enormous complexity of this bolide. The rainbow-colored eye-catcher show of Hublot is completed in the alligator strap, which also shines in all the colorfulness of the color spectrum. Less rare, but similarly exciting, the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 in the Power Reserve 14 Days 3D Carbon Rainbow 45 mm version presents itself to all those who could not get hold of one of the 9 latest examples.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep
No Omega Seamaster dives deeper: with 6,000 meters of water resistance, the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep tops the Omega collection. Launched in 2022, after the Swiss luxury brand survived an incredible 10,934 meters in the Mariana Trench in 2019 with two experimental editions on the outer wall of a submarine, the collection continues its success story in 2023 with seven models: while the gray top variant is made of titanium, the other editions rely on the latest stainless steel alloy called O-MEGASTEEL with special robustness and bright color. In view of the extreme resistance, 45.5 millimeters is still a moderate diameter and meets a classic Seamaster look, characterized above all by the color gradient in the dial.
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Omega Speedmaster ’57
Slimmer profile thanks to manual winding: the Omega Speedmaster ’57, first introduced in 2013, gets a major update with eight fresh models. Responsible for the innovative leap of the 12.99 millimeter slim space instrument is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 9906, which brings with it all the highlights of Omega’s technical world, from 15,000 gauss magnetic resistance to a time zone function.
Visually, the models are not immediately identifiable as the latest watches, but delight the connoisseur with subtle details such as the plastic “sandwich” dial. Black, blue, green, burgundy – the color spectrum is consistently noble and gives the connoisseur a choice of stainless steel or leather strap.
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