Frankfurt, Schramberg, Glashütte: the heart of the German watch industry beats in three cities and brims with diversity. From the engineering wonder of a Sinn special watch to the Bauhaus-inspired elegance of Junghans watches, the spectrum of automatic models is huge and competes against a Glashütte brand world that couldn’t be more varied. Our guide explains which automatic watches are the optimum for your taste and wallet.

Sinn watches: Professional instruments for every use

If you talk about automatic watches from German manufacturers, you can’t avoid the traditional company from Frankfurt am Main, which was founded in 1961. Worldwide, the company represents the prototype of robust, technically advanced timepieces for everyday life and the toughest operations. Up to 2,000 meters water depth in the automatic U2? No difficulty at all. Special developments such as the JAGDUHR 3006, the EZM 12 specially designed for air rescue services and the EZM 7 fire department watch demonstrate the enormous degree of specialization at Sinn. Although the company uses mostly bought-in movements from Sellita, which is why manufacture enthusiasts don’t get their money’s worth, it offers an unparalleled pool of ingenious developments in return. No other automatic watches from German manufacturers can boast the scratch-resistant TEGIMENT technology, the Ar-Dehumidifying technology to increase functional reliability, or the HYDRO technology, which enables mirror-free reading under water.

Target group: Technology enthusiasts, practically oriented watch wearers who are looking for a quality product for life are in the right place with Sinn. But beware: classics such as the Frankfurt Financial District Watches and the Pilot’s Watch 104 also cater to elegant preferences.

Junghans: Dedicated to elegance

German automatic watches with a real “gentleman” factor are made in the small town of Schramberg in Baden-Württemberg, where Junghans has been manufacturing its quality mechanical products since 1861. Compared to Sinn, the manufacturer prioritizes aesthetic considerations in its most famous models: Max Bill watches, the Junghans Meister collection and other lines stand for minimalism, Bauhaus charm and domed watch glass with maximum recognition value.

From a functional perspective, few automatic watches from German manufacturers in this price segment are more exciting: the Meister Worldtimer has made the world time watch affordable, the Meister Gangreserve has established a completely new representation of the remaining automatic power, and the iconic Max Bill Automatic needs no explanation at all. Relative to Sinn, the entry into the world of automatics is more affordable: while the Frankfurt-based company starts at around 1,000 euros with the 556 model series, the Schramberg-based company has a chic basic model in its lineup for around 700 euros with the Form A watch.

Target group: Traditionalists who appreciate a timeless look and can do without German manufacture movements will get their money’s worth with Junghans watches. The variety of colors and functions is excellent for both sexes.

Glashütte: Where does the journey begin in the German watch mecca?

By far the largest variety of automatic watches from German manufacturers is produced in the Müglitz Valley in Saxony: Typical identifying features such as decentralized dials and the large panorama date extend through all price ranges – from the entry-level secret tip Bruno Söhnle to Germany’s most exclusive watch manufacturer, A. Lange & Söhne. Bruno Söhnle is one of those manufacturers that many buyers don’t have on their radar, despite an incredibly interesting automatic range. Wrongly so! Especially the collections Pesaro II, Munich and Stuttgart are a prime example of local elegance. Exceptional rarities like the Rondo Automatic Regulator stand for traditional design at a fair price and clearly stand out from the crowd. Although so-called “atelier calibers” with their own modifications and decorations are built into more upscale models, anyone looking for complete German manufacture movements should knock on Nomos Glashütte’s door in the neighborhood.

Nomos: Manufacture automatic watches in a unique style

Like Junghans, the brand, founded in 1990, draws much of its inspiration from the Bauhaus style that shaped its four basic collections: the Tangente, Orion, Ludwig, and Tetra. What excites us most about Nomos is the affordability of genuine manufacture movements like the DUW 3001 in the Club Campus Neomatik 39: no other automatic watches from German manufacturers offer fully in-house mechanics below the 2,000-euro mark that also feature the in-house developed assortment (“Swing System”). A cream puff for technology maniacs! Compared to the likewise in-house hand-wound movements, however, the percentage price surcharges are hefty, which is why we recommend taking a look at the variants without a rotor.

Mühle and Union: Renaissance Glashütte traditional brands

If you want to wear a German watch with a nautical tradition dating back to the 19th century, Mühle Glashütte is the right choice: Compared to Nomos, the self-winding calibers, such as the SW-200 in the Teutonia II Medium, are bought in, but are more affordable in return. The Panova three-hand watch brings endless character to the wrist in three-digit spheres and is one of our absolute watch favorites from Germany.

Those who prefer professionalism to elegance benefit from the nautical experience at Mühle: models like the S.A.R. Rescue Timer withstand the toughest conditions, while the chronographs are powerful masculine statements. The Teutonia Sport I in particular deserves a closer look.

If you want to experience your automatic watches from German manufacturers in classic beauty and without frills, you can’t miss the Union Glashütte range. Timeless dress watches like the Viro Datum, Noramis and Seris are the hobbyhorse of the brand founded in 1893 by entrepreneurial genius Johannes Dürrstein. But there’s another way: if you love edgy watches with the exotic factor, you couldn’t wear a more original design legend than the Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph Moonphase.

High-end with a German touch

We’ve talked a lot about affordable automatic watches from German manufacturers, but the domestic watch industry also dominates the upper end of the spectrum with two top manufactures: Glashütte Original and A. Lange & Söhne. At first glance, the similarities can be striking; especially the dials of the luxury Pano Edition and Lange 1 collections seem like siblings. The difference lies in the price range: if you want to wear perfect luxury in the traditional style of Saxon watchmaking, you buy an original and get a top-notch overall package with a very good price-performance ratio, from the manufacture movement to the finest ornaments. Those who spend an average of 5,000 to 15,000 euros for a Glashütte Original receive quality standards that surpass even Swiss contenders like Omega and Breitling.

It’s hard to imagine Lange & Söhne playing in a different league again. The fact is: the high-end luxury brand produces the most exclusive, elaborate and in every respect spectacular hand-wound and automatic watches from German manufacturers. Only 5,000 units are produced per year, each one meticulously assembled, disassembled and reassembled by hand to ensure a level of perfection that has no equal in this country. The manufacture also sets technical standards: most watch experts worldwide agree that the Datograph ticks the best chronograph movement of all time. The pleasure begins at around 20,000 euros for the simplest Saxonia with three hands.

Der Beitrag German manufacturer automatic watches in comparison erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

“Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend”: Marilyn Monroe’s famous song applies to today’s watch world just as much as it described the jewelry of the 1940s and 1950s. But glitz, brilliance and glamour can sometimes look pretty old against timeless, simple watches for ladies. Our top 5 takes you into the stylish world of feminine understatement.

Ladies take note: Why simple ladies’ watches are a hit

Simple is the new fancy: for several years now, top watch brands such as Junghans, Rado and MÜHLE Glashütte have been focusing on producing elegant ladies’ watches that combine harmonious shapes with the measured use of gold and precious stones. In everyday use, few ladies want to scream for attention with an overloaded chandelier on their wrist, preferring simple watches that give form to their delicate taste and sense of beauty.

The more timeless the watch, the more effortlessly it will outlast fashion trends and the more different outfits it can round off in a distinguished way. Such a watch need have nothing to do with boredom or low price ranges: Available in all segments from three to six figures, simple ladies’ watches often inspire with maximum attention to detail and require a second look to reveal themselves to the lover in all their glory.

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 9 Ladies 29 mm

Our first candidate may come as a surprise to many readers: a sleek, elegant ladies’ watch from a manufacturer known for its racing-savvy male audience? That’s right, and this is where the beastly repertoire of the Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 9 Ladies 29 mm only begins. Characterized by sporty edges, it strikes a perfect balance between traditional dress watch and modern business instrument, similar to the Rolex Datejust, which cuts a confident figure in any everyday situation. Despite its feminine diameter, this wristwatch for ladies, which we recommend in a restrained version without diamonds, has a fully automatic movement including a visible back and withstands 100 meters of water resistance. Deep midnight blue (Ref. WBN2411.BA0621) or shimmering mother-of-pearl (Ref. WBN2412.BA0621) in the dial is the decisive question; both ladies’ watches can be set with eleven brilliant-cut diamonds as indices if desired. Those who like things as plain as possible choose blue without gemstones.

Junghans Max Bill Ladies Watch

An all-time favorite of our magazine also comes into its own when it comes to simplicity: a Bauhaus icon naturally endowed with purist lines, the Junghans Max Bill ladies’ watch is a master of symmetry and pleasing design. If mechanical fascination plays a subordinate role, we recommend the more affordable quartz version: 6.9 millimeters flat, the curved watch body with its dome-shaped Plexiglas elegantly nestles on the female wrist. One of our favorite variants is the Ref. 047/4250.48 with a white dial and fine Milanaise bracelet, which aesthetically deviates only in nuances from the original design from 1961 and appears particularly simple because the entire color scheme of the time display and bracelet is located in the silvery-white spectrum.

At the same time, other references prove that dresswatch ladies’ watches need not suffer from any color ban: From the gold-plated version (Ref. 047/7854.02) to the Max Bill with soft red accents in the dial (Ref. 047/4541.02), countless options exist that combine timeless elegance with attractive details. Do you often wear dark? Then we recommend a black dial as the perfect match.

MÜHLE Glashütte Lunova Lady

Keyword black: MÜHLE Glashütte’s answer to the question of what a simple wristwatch for ladies should look like is provided by the Lunova Lady (Ref. M1-43-36-LB-O). At 35 millimeters, the fully polished stainless steel case has a great universal diameter for different wrist sizes, but doesn’t stand out and draw the viewer’s attention to the dial. True to the motto “gray is the new black,” the sleek watch stands out from the crowd with a highly interesting color gradient that begins in the light center and flows into a dark shade of gray on the outer height ring.

The manufacturer calls the coloration slate gray. Ladies’ watches of the caliber of the MÜHLE Glashütte Lunova Lady do not call for attention, but play with details – first and foremost the applied numbers in the dial and the slightly playful decorative rings on the leather strap. The simple, elegant ladies’ watch deserves additional praise for its mechanics: Protected by 100-meter water resistance and admirable through a glass back, the industry-respected SW 200-1 automatic movement in the improved “Mühle” version performs precise work – with good care, even for a lifetime.

Rado True Quarz Diamonds

Is it possible to combine timelessly simple watches with an unmistakable wow factor? In the Rado True Quartz Diamonds (Ref. R27238722), the Swiss premium brand combines two elements that you wouldn’t associate with an understated appearance at first glance.

First, the high-gloss, jet-black case made of the specially developed “high-tech ceramic”: extremely scratch-resistant and skin-friendly, the prestige material from the house of Rado delights with its smooth feel and noticeably differentiates the True from the majority of classic watches.

Second, the diamonds in the dial: four little stones as indices, paired with gold-colored hands don’t sound like the essence that defines plain ladies’ watches. And yet, the 30-millimeter True Quartz Diamonds manages to bring all its components together into a subtle whole. Extraordinary, yet simple and timeless – if you’re looking for this rare symbiosis, you’ve come to the right place.

Omega Constellation Manhattan Quartz 28 mm

Even the glamorous, storied Omega Constellation is probably not the first timepiece that comes to mind when you think of “plain watches for ladies.” Rather, the majestic collection is famous for its solid gold top-of-the-line models set with an ocean of diamonds beyond the 30,000 euro mark. The secret to the luxury series lies in its entry-level watches, such as the Omega Constellation Manhattan Quartz 28mm: Made of stainless steel and fitted with understated dials in white, black or other tones, they express the essence of the Constellation much more purely than their glamorous sisters bathed in diamonds.

The unmistakable features of the ladies’ watches – an integrated bracelet with a flowing transition to the case and the four lobes on the bezel – are supplemented in the current models by Roman numeral engravings in the bezel. The overall picture: spectacular. Ladies who prefer traditional mechanics instead of the utilitarian quartz movement can choose from a whole universe of automatic models in the upper price range, ranging from simple to extravagant.

Der Beitrag Top 5 simple ladies watches erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Elegance meets understatement: what makes simple men’s watches so attractive

Whether at a business lunch with the boss, on a first date or at the next coffee round with the in-laws: Even if you love flashy wristwatches, such as a colorful Hublot or oversized U-Boat, neat restraint is the better choice in some situations. Let’s face it: wristwatches cause other people to draw conclusions about our character. In this visual “quick assessment,” the wearer of a gold Rolex Submariner is sometimes labeled a show-off, while a discreet watch speaks to likeable modesty, a sense of elegance and, in some eyes, even higher intelligence.

Thus, for strategic reasons alone, plain men’s watches can be a smart move. However, a large number of enthusiastic watch wearers prefer the noble understatement out of their own conviction: Harmonious shapes, noble details and timeless beauty independent of any fashion make the dress watch an evergreen on the male wrist. Legendary gentlemen like Sean Connery, Humphrey Bogart or Marlon Brando cannot be wrong.

Maurice Lacroix Eliros Date 25th Anniversary

For the 25th anniversary of its beautifully designed Eliros collection, Maurice Lacroix spices up the classic with refined details. Two versions of the 40-millimeter stainless steel watch are available, of which the white dial (Ref. EL1118-SS00E-120-C) has a greater understatement factor. Those looking for perfectly plain watches for men might already find the design too exciting: Modern, elongated numerals and an alternating green-blue minute track give the Eliros a high degree of independence, while the date display at three o’clock increases its utility value.

Alternatively, you can opt for the blue dial with green and white inscriptions (Ref. EL1118-SS00E-420-C). With a slim eight-millimeter height, the polished case of both versions shows how coherent and comfortable dress watches should sit on the wrist. A technical highlight of the Maurice Lacroix Eliros Date 25th Anniversary marks its “Easy Strap Exchange” system, which allows the wearer to change the strap in a flash. In addition to the fine stainless steel Milanaise bracelet, the simple men’s watch comes with a leather strap in blue, which ideally matches the blue dial or the blue hands of the white version.

Junghans Meister Gangreserve

It is iconic, mechanically sophisticated and proves how confidently they design simple watches for men in Schramberg: The Junghans Meister Gangreserve. At 40.4 millimeters in diameter, the minimalist editions for gentlemen may not dwarf the wrist, but they lay great against the skin with their curved shape. The dial in particular captivates our gaze: where razor-sharp dauphine hands meet gossamer indices, the power reserve holds its namesake complication. Instead of displaying the remaining power of the J810.2 automatic movement on an ordinary scale, as 99 percent of watch brands do, the Meister uses a simple bar with a level indicator. Turning the plain wristwatch for men upside down, the back allows deep insights into the mechanics. Various color variants, each limited to 160 pieces, are available: if you’re looking for a watch in night blue, the Ref. 027/4114.02 will delight you with its spectacular depth of color, while the gold-plated Ref. 027/7113.02 exudes a touch of glamour.

NOMOS Glashütte Tangente neomatik 39 Platingrau

If a brand from Glashütte stands for simple men’s watches with a modern touch, it is NOMOS: above all, the Tangente, a bestseller of the young company since its founding in 1992, is a prime example of its elegant design. The new NOMOS Glashütte Tangente neomatik 39 platinum gray (Ref. 144) is a special highlight: Not only the technical masterstroke of accommodating the in-house DUW 3001 automatic movement, including swing system, in a 6.9 millimeter flat stainless steel case, but also the platinum gray finished dial catches our attention.

Paired with rhodium-plated hands and its signature serif numerals, the Tangente exemplifies sleek men’s watches to perfection. The silver-gray color spectrum continues in the polished and cylindrical case, which is known for its steep flanks and, at 38.5 millimeters, has the optimal diameter to harmonize with any wrist circumference. The NOMOS Tangente is delivered on a leather strap in black, which perfects its distinguished appearance and makes the Tangente the ideal partner for elegant suits.

Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT WHITE

Bell & Ross proves with the BR 05 GMT WHITE (Ref. BR05G-SI-ST/SST) that interesting and at the same time simple watches are allowed to deviate from the mainstream. Held in the typical aviation-inspired square design of the masculine performance brand including four sighting screws and integrated bracelet, interprets the masculine but reserved men’s watches in a self-confident way. The opal white dial, in particular, prompted us to include the 41-millimeter exotic in our top list: Restrained in design, it scores with exemplary legibility and is given just as refreshing a contrast by the bright red GMT hand as by the two-tone altitude ring.

But even those who don’t travel benefit from the strong overall package of the BR 05: while many plain watches for men as dress watches are not particularly robust, the Bell & Ross can withstand 100 meters of water. Generous luminous indices make nighttime reading child’s play. Buyers can choose between an integrated stainless steel bracelet, which is our favorite due to its tremendous coherence, and a sturdy rubber strap for regular outdoor use.

MÜHLE Glashütte Teutonia II Chronometer

Is there a simple wristwatch for men that corresponds to the prototype of cultivated understatement and timeless beauty? MÜHLE Glashütte answers the question with the Teutonia II Chronometer (Ref. M1-30-45-MB): 39 millimeters slim, the round and 100-meter water-resistant masterpiece shines with its enormous attention to detail: in addition to the stepped bezel, which creates a sophisticated interplay of light and shadow, the intricately guilloché dial with its concentric relief catches the eye. Applied indices in the finest finish complete the noble overall picture.

Inside the stainless steel case, precise mechanics with a certificate await the gentleman: every MÜHLE Glashütte Teutonia II Chronometer is put through its paces for 15 days at the Glashütte Observatory before being awarded the coveted chronometer certificate. Built in is the automatic movement SW 200-1 in the version Mühle with speckle neck regulation, date quick correction and stop-seconds. If you’re looking for simple watches for men, you’ll come pretty close to the ideal with the Teutonia II, which comes with a free choice of stainless steel or leather strap.

Der Beitrag Top 5 simple watches for men erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Ever since the construction of precise marine chronometers for determining longitude was first achieved in the 18th century, seafaring has been inextricably linked with advanced timekeeping. From Breguet to MÜHLE Glashütte, many watch brands look back on a rich history in shipping and let the heritage live on into their collections today. Let’s set sail and explore some of the most spectacular marine watches in 2022 – without spinning yarns, promise!

What features must a marine watch have?

First designed for mass use in 1759 by John Harrison, mechanical marine chronometers had to meet the highest precision standards of their time and were of elementary importance for navigation on the high seas. Today’s marine watches for the wrist are not systematically different from other timepieces, but rather distance themselves from other types of watches through their history. Breguet, for example, can base its marine collection on the proud function of the company’s founder as French Minister of the Navy, while Mühle Glashütte maintains its own department for the production of nautical instruments – nautics is even mentioned in the manufacturer’s logo. The extent to which the technology of the timepiece is optimized for ocean use, in addition to its appearance and marketing, depends on the manufacturer. Sinn, for example, builds marine watches for the special maritime units of the GSG 9, which requires extensive adaptation for use on the high seas.

MÜHLE Glashütte Seebataillon GMT

Designed as an operational watch for the German Navy’s maritime battalion, this marine watch (Ref. M1-28-62-KB) brings not only 300-meter water resistance but also a second time zone to the hanging wrist of soldiers frequently deployed abroad. In the dial, double indices and a split triangle marking day and night ensure outstanding legibility, which is further enhanced by the hefty case diameter of 45 millimeters. Nevertheless, to ensure good ergonomics, the body is made of lightweight titanium and features an offset crown at four o’clock to prevent pressing into the back of the hand. Despite all its professionalism, the MÜHLE Glashütte Seebataillon GMT does not let itself be deprived of emotional details: A visible case back, for example, which allows unobstructed views into the automatic SW 330-1 (Mühle version). No question: this marine watch has earned its title.

Sinn UX S GSG 9

The 44-millimeter Sinn UX S GSG 9 (Ref. 403.062) also strives for maximum professionalism, which begins with the special case hardening (TEGIMENT technology) with subsequent PVD coating and continues inside, where HYDRO technology ensures absolutely mirror-free reading of the marine watches by means of an oil filling. The case’s water-resistance makes for open mouths: made of German submarine steel, it can withstand a whopping 12,000 meters of depth (1,200 bar of pressure), putting it in the shade of the entire diving watch market. Still, things are likely to get uncomfortable at the bottom of the Mariana Trench, because the special quartz movement of the marine watch can “only” handle a water depth of 5,000 meters. Still an unrivaled value, which makes the Sinn UX the official service watch of the maritime GSG-9 special forces. Extensive testing procedures in accordance with European diving equipment standards ensure that every UX keeps its promises during missions that can mean the difference between life and death.

Breguet Marine Automatic

Pure luxury brings the Breguet Marine Automatic (Ref. 5517BB/Y2/5ZU) to the wrist: crafted in 18-karat white gold, the 40-millimeter instrument catches the eye with the beautiful blue hue of its dial, the center of which is crowned by an elaborate wave pattern. Somewhat surprising for a handmade piece of royalty is the sporty rubber strap, but it suits the Marine excellently and is rounded off by a folding clasp in the prestigious case material. Whether we would really use the luxurious, clearly five-digit priced work of art in tough marine use, we dare to doubt. We’d rather admire the automatic manufacture movement 777A, let the bold Roman numerals take their effect on us, and relax in the certainty that the marine can withstand 100-meter water depths – but we’d rather not test it out.

MIDO Ocean Star Chronograph

The MIDO Ocean Star Chronograph (Ref. M026.627.37.051.00), with its 44-millimeter diameter and black-coated stainless steel case, can be taken to its limits with less pain. A particular highlight is the nautical tachymeter scale for calculating speed in nautical miles, but the Ocean Star’s history also speaks for itself: first introduced in 1944, it was one of the world’s first water-resistant watches, with its stainless steel monocoque case and specially developed cork gasket. The model shown here can dive down to 200 meters and, with its automatic chronograph, has a function that not every marine watch can boast. Our opinion: An outstanding overall package at a fair price.

Fortis Marinemaster

Inspired by cool mountain water, the new Serenity Blue hue in the Fortis Marinemaster (Ref. F8120004) is intended to bring peace of mind and relaxation to the wearer. Given the special sustainability, no problem: the 40-millimeter case of the marine watches is made of recycled steel, withstands 200 meters of water resistance and has been equipped with a technical innovation. The so-called Gear Bezel is a bezel made of black stainless steel that is optimized for maximum grip. The time indicator is just as unlikely to get lost from your eyes as it is from your hand, because the high-end luminous material Superluminova X1 ensures a particularly bright glow in the dark. Our tip: If you order the Marinemaster on the “Horizon Strap,” a chic rubber strap, a perfect color match between the dial and bracelet is guaranteed.

U-Boat Classico 45 Bronzo A BR

Marine watches through and through are the extravagant creations of U-Boat – after all, the entire history of the manufacturer is built on construction plans developed by the grandfather of today’s owner and design fanatic Italo Fontana for the Italian naval fleet during World War II. The U-Boat Classico 45 Bronzo A BR (Ref. 8103) is one of the most striking creations in today’s product portfolio – not because of its 45 millimeter diameter, but because of its bronze case with left-hand crown and safety bar. In typical U-Boat fashion, the dial features huge numerals at 4, 8 and 12 o’clock.

U-Boat Classico 38 Pink Mother of Pearl

The same layout also characterizes the dial of the U-Boat Classico 38 Pink Mother of Pearl (Ref. 8480), which combines the concept of a marine watch from the pink mother-of-pearl dial to diamond-set numerals with feminine accents. The left-sided crown with safety latch is something the ladies’ watch inherits from its big brothers, but not the dimensions – 38 millimeters is a well-proportioned measurement. From a functional point of view, 50 meters of water resistance do not make the Classico a high-performance marine watch, but who cares? Ladies with a penchant for exotic and self-confident wrist accents should definitely get to know this piece of jewelry.

Der Beitrag Modern naval watches erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.