Functional classic, bold outlier or elegant beauty: the character of every timepiece is inseparable from the design of its dial. No other feature conveys more emotion, and nothing else decides so decisively whether you love a watch or leave it as its aesthetic centerpiece. We took a closer look at the most famous dials of the modern era and present 10 designs from 5 categories that you really should know.
From the Clouds to the Ocean Floor: Functional Legends
One design, many variations: since 1952, the Breitling Navitimer has been the undisputed king of pilot's watches. Virtually unchanged right up to today's Breitling Navitimer 1 collection, its legendary recognizability rests largely on the functional layout of its dial: while the outer slide rule handles countless calculations such as working out average speeds, the visual appeal comes from the contrasting subdials and the characteristically fine detailing of the scales. Recognizability doesn't get any stronger than this.
Or does it? A strong contender for that title would surely be the Rolex Submariner. Unlike the Navitimer, arguably the most famous dive watch of all time needs no subdials or elaborate scales to impress:
Bold indices, broad hands and, in the case of the Submariner Date, a date window with a Cyclops lens are all it takes to create a commanding dial.
With so much simplicity, it's hardly surprising that the Rolex Submariner has been imitated countless times since its debut in 1953 – in every price range, you'll find well-executed as well as embarrassing copies of the original. Today, demand for the "real" Submariner is higher than ever, so waiting times of two years or more for the roughly €8,000 diver are not unusual.
Confident Characters with Sharp Edges
Yet the Geneva dive watch is far from alone in the simple philosophy of its dial design. The Tag Heuer Monaco also proves that the great icons of the watch world often follow very simple recipes. "Angular down to the last detail" – that was the motto behind the square classic when it was designed in 1969, and it still enjoys a loyal following today. Whether as the Calibre 11 automatic chronograph or as a quartz ladies' watch, if you deliberately want to stand apart from mainstream taste, the Monaco is an excellent choice. The dial of reference CAW211R.FC640 in particular, a tribute to the famous oil company Gulf, makes a distinctive statement with its striking stripes.
Speaking of individuality: few manufacturers put this principle into practice as consistently as Hublot. Especially eye-catching are the curved rectangular dials of the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang collection – although "dial" is a relative term given the skeletonization. These luxury watches put almost their entire mechanism on display from the front, which in some editions also includes rare complications such as tourbillons or moon phases.
Combined with exotic cases made of sapphire crystal or carbon, the Spirit of Big Bang achieves an extravagant presence like no other – whether you like it or not.
Eye-Catching: Wild Adventures for the Wrist
But the eccentricity of the angular Hublot can be taken even further. Just how that works is shown by the innovative Zurich newcomer Sevenfriday. Inspired by industrial elements, the dial designs across all its collections are built around maximum unconventionality. The interplay of hidden hands, exposed parts of the movement and off-center displays goes so far that the dials are sometimes not even recognizable as such.
Both the brand's Q Series and S Series offer vivid examples of Sevenfriday's wild yet unmistakable style. A design no fan of the extravagant school should miss.
But what happens if you go one step further and do away with hands and dials altogether? It sounds impossible, but with the Ulysse Nardin Freak X, it's actually reality:
This roughly €30,000 timepiece features a flying carrousel movement that is unique in the world, whose own components are used to display the time. A concept that breaks completely with conventional notions of a dial and more than deserves its place on our list.
Asymmetrical Beauty in the Luxury Segment
Now, back to normality. In the case of the Glashütte Original PanoGraph, however, that term should be taken with great caution: unlike the exotic Ulysse Nardin, the Saxon chronograph does score with real hands and a classic dial, but everything else is pure emotion. The harmonious blending of the displays, the aesthetic layout based on the mathematical golden ratio and the brand's signature Panorama Date as the crowning touch – rarely has a timepiece looked so coherent and impressive. The PanoGraph has no ordinary subdials; instead, it offers far more stylish versions arranged in a semicircle. This is what true beauty on the wrist should look like.
The Breguet Tradition also proves that off-center dial designs hold an irresistible appeal.
Fully skeletonized and available with complications such as a retrograde seconds or a GMT function, it combines the prestigious manufacturer's classical focus with an unusual twist.
If you have a genuine passion for handcrafted mechanics and are looking for a completely new experience on the wrist, you could hardly invest the required €20,000 any better.
Our Finale: Legendary Classics for Eternity
Strong presence, angular designs and wild exotics – the world of dials is as diverse as horology itself. But what actually is the essence of a beautiful dial? As different as tastes may be, most enthusiasts agree that timeless dress watches rank among the most breathtaking creations in the watch world.
Creations like the Junghans Max Bill: its rigorous Bauhaus style, defined by pure minimalism and ultra-thin indices, has never lost its modern edge since the 1960s. A harmony that transcends trends and delights in every price range.
Including the very highest, as the Patek Philippe Calatrava demonstrates. No subdials, no date, no frills – just your wrist and an outstanding icon of the luxury class.
For generations, the Swiss collection has been regarded as the epitome of the perfect dress watch, the ultimate expression of understatement and horological craftsmanship. And all of this with a simple white dial, as on reference 5196J. Sometimes the simplest solutions really are the best.
