Quality differences in the Mecaline collection

Fashion jewelry labels and luxury brands have one thing in common: when they want to upgrade their collections with a chronograph, they tend to opt for the 7750 caliber. However, the quality levels that are up for discussion in view of the brand identity result in considerable differences. Basically, ETA groups the caliber quality for mechanical movements as follows:

The standard and Elaboré movements have polyruby jewels, Nivarox 2 hairsprings and a gold-plated nickel balance. The standard products are regulated in two positions, while the average rate deviation is +/- 12 s/d. The Elaboré movements have a 3-layer construction and a rate deviation of +/- 7 s/d. Both movement variants are a sign of quality in ordinary watches, as the experienced manufacturer attaches great importance to solid products.

However, exclusive brands only use ETA movements of the Top and Chronomètre quality levels. They feature red ruby jewels, an Anachron balance spring and a gold-plated Glucydur balance. Both premium movements have a 5-layer design. The average rate of the top product line is +/- 4 s/d. The name suggests that the Chronomètre movements have undergone an elaborate test procedure for rate accuracy and have received chronometer certification.

Red ruby and other material differences

Traditional Swiss brands, for example, deliberately opt for the ETA 2836-2 in the Chronomètre and Top quality levels. The rubies in all product lines are synthetic corundum, which reduces friction and therefore wear on moving movement parts. A red ruby is preferred for the calibers with the Chronomètre and Top quality grades because it has smoother surfaces. The vibrant color is also more attractive than polyruby, which suits watch designs with sapphire crystal backs.

The copper alloy Glucydur is harder and more resistant than nickel. The same applies to the Anachron alloy, which is also less susceptible to magnetism than Nivarox 2. For this reason, ETA is pushing the caliber quality partly with these materials. The number of layers is also relevant to quality. Put simply, the more regulation options the movements allow in the quality levels, the smaller the position errors and consequently the rate deviations.

Support that traditional brands know how to use

You design a classy watch case and order the ETA 2892-A2 in the quality grades that are top class. Later, you insert it into the prepared case and add a classy strap – and your luxury collection is complete. The craft of watchmaking is not that simple. Even complete movements usually arrive as a kit because watch manufacturers want to realize their functional and aesthetic design ideas.

Modified body shells

Ambitious brands prefer the raw movement – known as an ébauche in technical jargon. It is supplied incomplete so that the escapement, balance spring, balance, mainspring and hands can be modified, as well as the dial. It is also common for watch brands to order modified special movements or to develop a market innovation together with the movement manufacturer. The leeway outlined above makes it clear that the ETA caliber quality defines the quality of a wristwatch less than the expertise of the watch manufacturer.

ETA 2824-2: a perennial favorite in many quality levels

The ETA 2824 was introduced in many quality levels back in the 1970s and became a successful model. The same applies to the revised version, which has been popular since the 1980s. The robust and precise 2824-2 automatic movement is characterized by 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), Incabloc shock protection, bidirectional winding central rotor, 25 jewels and date window. The typical power reserve is 42 hours.

The Breitling Caliber 17 is known to modify the tried-and-tested ETA caliber. However, the quality of the manufacture movement has been significantly refined. Together with the movement manufacturer, Tissot developed the Powermatic 80 (ETA C07.11) based on the 2824-2. It features a sicilium balance spring and an 80-hour power reserve. Hamilton drew inspiration for the H-10 manufacture caliber from this further development of the ETA 2824.

ETA 2836-2: a price hit for many quality levels

Since their debut in 1982, these ETA movements have been in demand in many quality levels because, in addition to 25 jewels, a ball-bearing rotor, Novodiac shock protection and a reserve of around 42 hours, they also offer plenty of additional functions. As standard, the ETA 2836-2 has date and day displays on board. If required, it can easily be equipped with a GMT function. Tissot and Oris, for example, used these attractive calibers. When it came to quality levels, the premium brands certainly reached for the stars, which are appreciated for their excellent product philosophy and their heart for moderate budgets.

ETA 2892-A2 – ideal for slim watch design in many quality levels

2892-A2 movements have been common in all quality levels since 1975 – especially the high-priced versions. The second edition of the 2892 took its place in 1984 and the 2892-A2 variant was added in the 1990s. Although the quality of the automatic winding of the ETA caliber is often criticized, it is successful due to its flat design. It looks good on elegant wristwatches and makes it easier to add complications.

The compact caliber has a date display, 21 jewels and typically a 50-hour power reserve. The related 2893-2 scores with a second time zone and 24-hour hand. These ETA movements were used by Fortis or Zenith in the quality levels for high demands. Omega even used them for some Seamaster Diver references.

Chronograph caliber 7750 – the stepping stone to the chronograph in many quality levels

While automatic movements established themselves early on in classic wristwatches, manual winding was present in chronographs for a long time. This delay was partly due to the fact that there were initially no ETA movements available in quality levels that were convincing. In the 1970s, the ETA 7750 – also known as the Valjoux 7750 – finally made its debut.

Since then, the automatic chronograph movement has been firmly anchored in the watch scene. The ETA caliber is valued for its quality, which is reflected in its robustness, reliability, 54-hour power reserve and adaptability. Typical of the ETA Valjoux 7750, in addition to the date display with day of the week, is the totalizer arrangement, which outlines an upright triangle. Breitling and Tag Heuer, for example, use this movement.

Not all manufacturers rely on purchased calibers

Although luxury brands from Breitling to Omega and Tudor like to use ETA movements of the highest quality, not all watch manufacturers are open about this. Breitling, on the other hand, specifies cooperation with ETA, Sellita or Dubois-Depraz for all non-brand movements. And of course, with brands such as Rolex or Hublot, one expects more exclusive manufacture movements in most cases. Nomos is one of the few manufacturers that prefers to use its own movement portfolio instead of ETA components. The company prefers its own movement portfolio and only uses in-house mechanical calibers.

Zenith is similarly ambitious, which is reflected in the remarkable 5Hz “El Primero” manufacture movement.

Der Beitrag ETA movements quality levels in comparison erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

The Powermatic 80 movement is a development of the Tissot watch brand in collaboration with ETA movements. The caliber is based on the ETA 2824-2, which has proven itself for decades, but has been modified to increase the power reserve to 80 hours. This is achieved through various optimizations, including an extended barrel and a modified escape wheel. Various watch manufacturers use the Powermatic 80 movement under different trade names, for example Caliber H-10 (at Hamilton) or Caliber 80 (at Mido).

Technology and operation: a modified classic

The characteristic feature of the Powermatic 80 is the enormous power reserve, which gives the caliber its name. The power reserve refers to the time that a mechanical watch can run with the mainspring fully wound before it has to be wound again. In conventional automatic watches, the reserve is usually around 38 to 48 hours. The Powermatic 80 movement, on the other hand, offers a power reserve of no less than 80 hours.

Besides the actual ETA 2824-2 movement, related movements like the 2836-2 in Powermatic-80 version are also manufactured. This differs from the 2824-2 by the additional day display (besides the pure date display).

The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 hertz) and features 25 jewels for low-friction operation. This reduced frequency in place of the 28,800 vibrations per hour usually found in this ETA movement is an important aspect in the realization of the higher reserve.

The movement properties of the Powermatic 80 movement are made possible by various technical modifications. These include, in particular, the use of an extended mainspring barrel and the modification of the escape wheel. The extended barrel makes it possible to accommodate a longer mainspring that can store more energy. The modification of the escape wheel reduces the movement’s energy consumption, which contributes to the longer running time.

Visually, the lower frequency is noticeable in the movement of the second hand. Since the hand of this movement only performs six steps per second, it jerks a bit more than the more smoothly running hand of a regular 2824 caliber. The higher frequency of the latter allows the hand to cover eight steps per second.

Powermatic 80 and the accuracy: basics

Increasing the power reserve usually does not directly affect the accuracy of the watch. Accuracy depends on various factors, such as the quality of the movement, regulation, balance alignment and other technical aspects.

It is worth noting that the accuracy may decrease over the time the movement is running. This is due to the fact that the tension of the mainspring gradually decreases. As a result, the movement technically becomes slightly less accurate the longer it runs. Accordingly, it was a major challenge for the watchmakers and engineers responsible to keep the rate characteristics constant throughout the reserve time.

The test results for the caliber

There are some test results on the accuracy of watches with the Powermatic 80 movement. Tissot, as one of the main users of the movement, states that the accuracy is usually in the range of a deviation of -15 to +15 seconds per day. This corresponds to the generally accepted standard for mechanical watches in this price range.

There are also independent test results and testimonials from watch enthusiasts and collectors who evaluate and analyze the accuracy of watches with the Powermatic movement. These reports vary, sometimes significantly. While some users report very high precision within the specified range in the test, other users note slightly higher deviations.

It should be taken into account that the accuracy of a movement depends on a whole range of factors. It may vary slightly in measurements from one movement to another and also from test to test. These factors include, but are not limited to, the individual regulation of the watch, the wearing habits of the user, and (especially for watches that have been used for a long time) the maintenance history of the watch. It should also be noted that the Powermatic-80 movement is available in different quality levels. The chronometer version is the one with the highest guaranteed precision. This is certified by the COSC after extensive testing. Numerous models of this caliber are equipped with chronometer-certified movements, such as the Mido Commander Chronometer or the Tissot Ballade Powermatic 80 COSC.

The advantages of the silicon coil spring

As a special upgrade, the Powermatic movement is also available with a silicon balance spring in some watches. For a long time, these were only available in watches of the highest luxury class from manufacturers such as Ulysse Nardin and Patek Philippe.

The first prototype was developed in 2002 by mathematician Ludwig Oechslin for Ulysse Nardin. In a concerted research project by Patek Philippe, Rolex, Swatch Group and CSEM, the silicon hairspring has been continuously improved. As a result of rapid development, the Swatch Group is now able to use Si springs in much more affordable models, such as the Mido chronometer caliber 80 Si. There are considerable advantages over alloys such as Nivarox.

Silicon is non-magnetic, which makes the hairspring less susceptible to magnetic influences. Magnetic fields can affect the accuracy of a mechanical watch by changing the oscillation frequency of the hairspring. The use of a Si hairspring minimizes this problem. The material also has a higher temperature resistance compared to the alloys normally used. This contributes to improved accuracy over a wider temperature range. The surface of the material is smoother than that of common alloys, resulting in lower friction within the movement. Lower friction means more efficient energy flow and can help improve reserve and accuracy. The element is also less sensitive to external influences such as oils and lubricants, which allows the hairspring to last longer. In this way, maintenance intervals are longer.

Use of the Powermatic 80 caliber: Models at a glance

Different manufacturers use the modified ETA caliber under different trade names. At the pioneer Tissot, it is still called Powermatic 80 and is used in various model series such as Gentleman, PR 100, Seastar 1000 and Le Locle. Not all models in the ranges include the movement, but it can be found in special models in this range.

Hamilton uses the movement under the name H-10 in models such as the Hamilton Jazzmaster, Hamilton Khaki Field and Hamilton American Classic.

Mido uses the Powermatic movement under the name Caliber 80. Among others, it is installed in the models of the Baroncelli, Commander (and Commander II) and Multifort product lines. COSC-certified models of this caliber ensure a particularly high certified accuracy of the movement.

The manufacturer Certina also uses the movement under its original name in models such as the Certina DS-1 and the Certina DS-2.

Der Beitrag Powermatic 80 movement erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.