Stepping down after 30 years at the helm

Large corporations dominate the Swiss watch industry with an overwhelming superiority. Sometimes it feels like the most powerful players – Swatch Group, Richemont and LVMH – dominate the entire industry. The face of probably the most prominent exception has been one of the most influential women in Swiss industry for 30 years: Jasmine Audemars. Her retirement as Chairman of the Board of Directors, which will officially take place on November 11, 2022, marks a turning point in the nearly 150-year history of the high-end manufacture. From the very beginning in 1875, the company was owned by the two founding families, Piguet and Audemars, who passed on their leadership roles to the next generation as a matter of course.

In 1992, Jasmine Audemars took over the board of directors from her father Jacques-Louis Audemars, who brought the independent manufacturer the greatest success in the company’s history with the bold enforcement of the Royal Oak. The “grande dame of the Swiss watch industry,” as the press dubs the now 80-year-old and places her in the ranks of industry icons such as Jean-Claude Biver and Georges Kern, quickly developed into a resolute, forward-looking boss of the great house. The difference to her predecessors: Jasmine Audemars has no descendants.

From journalist to watch icon

In return, the passionate watchmaking personality, for whom the financial health and independence of her brand has always been a matter close to her heart, looks back on an impressive career. After studying social and economic history in Geneva, which gave her a close connection with the cosmopolitan Rhone metropolis that continues to this day, she worked at the daily newspaper Journal de Genève, gaining deep insights into the world of international trade relations. Knowledge that was to prove invaluable in her later management of the Group.

Jasmine Audemars devotes almost 25 years of her life to journalism and rises to the top of her daily newspaper in the 1980s. At this point, she becomes Switzerland’s first female editor-in-chief and loves her job more than anything, despite the daily pressures and the fact that editors-in-chief don’t just have friends in the world. Making decisions, meeting exciting people, learning from daily mistakes – while her father puts the manufactory on a previously unattained track to success, Jasmine pursues her own career.

The fact that she experienced an abrupt change of scene in 1992 and took over the president’s seat from Audemars Piguet did not bother her successor. On the contrary: the then 50-year-old identifies (to this day) 100 percent with her family’s watchmaking tradition, takes over the chairmanship with the same naturalness as her predecessors and is not afraid of the new task. The first big bang came just one year after she took the helm: in 1993, the brawny Royal Oak Offshore was launched, which over the next three decades became a huge success alongside the regular Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

Patience, discipline and responsibility

The fact that the businesswoman faces her challenges with patient composure is to pay off. In the midst of the 2008 financial crisis, the company’s healthy financial position made it possible to build a new manufactory to urgently expand capacity. And even in the second half of the 2010s, when many watch brands are struggling with falling sales, the manufacturer under Jasmine Audemars continues its success story without a break. From her journalistic work, the watch president is very familiar with international business and knows the benefits of good diversification. While other companies are expanding massively in China, the strategic leader is focusing on solid sales on all continents.

Like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore and other timepieces from the high-end brand, Jasmine is an exciting character with rough edges. As contradictory as the balance in the watch industry between the preservation of historical values and constant further development may seem, the impressions one gains from talking to the elegantly dressed businesswoman are equally contrasting. On the one hand passionate, enthusiastic about her profession and with sparkling eyes as soon as she is asked about her journalistic time, on the other calm, observant and above all disciplined. Jasmine Audemars considers discipline a luxury and punctuality a matter of course in her line of work.

Watch personality with own convictions

A watch representative who appears unpunctual? Not conceivable for the self-confident lady. In other respects, too, the outgoing mistress of Royal Oak and Co. is a woman with clear visions, who can answer complex questions briefly and questions things instead of simply accepting them. Smartwatches, for example, are not rejected per se by the grande dame of mechanical watchmaking, but she regards them as an interesting line of business alongside traditional watches, although they do not come close to the emotional impact of a genuine automatic movement. She places particular emphasis on local responsibility, stressing that many jobs and family histories depend on the well-being of the world-famous company, especially in its hometown of Le Brassus. And on the uncompromising quality of the top brand, which is not up for discussion for Jasmine Audemars.

The successor: brief portrait of Alessandro Bogliolo

Whether her successor will lead Audemars Piguet with the same aplomb remains to be seen. In any case, Alessandro Bogliolo’s CV sounds promising: the 57-year-old Italian, who lives in New York, was CEO of Tiffany & Co. from 2017 to 2021, after 16 years as CEO of the Italian fashion brand Diesel. This followed various managerial positions at Bulgari in the U.S., Singapore and Italy. In any case, Bogliolo does not lack experience in the luxury industry to follow in the big footsteps of his predecessor.

However, the previous era of the last watchmaker owned by the founding families does not end completely. After Jasmine’s departure, there will still be a leading family member in the company, 63-year-old Olivier Audemars, who took over the post of Vice Chairman of the Board of Directors from his aunt Paulette Piguet in 1997 and is a great-grandson of the second founder of the company, Edward Auguste Piguet.
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Image sources:

Title photo:
By Rama – Own work, CC BY-SA 2.0 fr, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1563549
Portrait Jules Audemars:
By Alexaube – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=108993844
Portrait Edward Piguet:
By Alexaube – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=108993980

Der Beitrag Watch personalities: Jasmine Audemars looks back on a great career erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Affordable, but not cheap: The perfect entry point

The market below the 1000-euro mark supplies the willing with all imaginable forms of scrap and duplicates. But no true watch lover will throw his money out the window in such a silent manner. What we want is authenticity, history, value – in short: a companion for life. Many don’t know that all of these qualities are represented in the three-digit range, with a selection that takes one’s breath away. Tissot, Hamilton, Oris, even Tag Heuer and Longines make the horological hobby accessible to anyone who is enthusiastic. This can be beginners and students as well as experienced collectors looking for variety “just for fun”.

You can’t expect great manufacture movements for two five hundred dollars. Precious metals, grand complications and handmade watches just as little. What Swiss watches under 1000 euros do not lack, however, is originality, character and, in some cases, centuries of experience. In other words, the essence to make passionate watch fanatics happy.

Automatic without compromise: Oris Classic Date

If we had to draw the prototype for elegant Swiss watches, the result would have great similarities with the Oris Classic Date (Ref. 01 733 7719 4071-07 5 20 32): Detached from all fashion trends of modern times, the dresswatch of the traditional company from Hölstein compresses absolute harmony and a reliable automatic movement on a stately 42 millimeters in diameter. No detail of the stainless steel case or the sapphire crystal-covered dial upsets the aesthetic balance: Roman numerals, symmetry thanks to the 6 o’clock position of the date window and a typically grippy crown form the overall picture. The fine concentric segmentation of the dial also catches the eye of the connoisseur. This watch is not for braggers, but for connoisseurs. Similarly impressive to the visual balance of the Classic Date is its feel; no one who touches the men’s watch would place it below 1000 euros.

Masculine in the water: Longines HydroConquest Quartz 41mm

Other Swiss watches under 1000 euros build their character on corners, edges and a good dose of self-confidence. Like the Longines HydroConquest quartz 41mm model (Ref. L3.740.4.56.6): With a loud “I’m here” exclamation, the 41-millimeter diver clings to the wrist of its wearer and accompanies him up to 300 meters below the surface of the water. The legibility of the completely white markings on a black background (including plenty of luminous material) is legendary, as is the angular crown protection. The fact that the diver’s watch is available for triple-digit sums is thanks to its quartz movement, which is around 200 to 300 euros cheaper than the automatic caliber, depending on the model. If you’re looking for masculine power with outdoor qualities, the HydroConquest is the perfect choice.

Exotic with tradition: Rado Diastar The Original Automatic

From ordinary watch shapes we switch to a maverick that attracts all eyes: The Rado Diastar The Original as a quartz or even an automatic model. For triple-digit money, the owner gets a rich history and ingenious technology at the same time: in 1962, the first DiaStar revolutionized the watch world with its oval, scratch-resistant hard metal case and has passed the feature on to its successors today. Few Swiss watches under 1000 euros achieve such high scores as the DiaStar in terms of conspicuousness, while at the same time offering the technical fascination of an automatic movement. A wide variety of sizes and designs are available – from the gold-plated 27.2-millimeter version with its decorative charm to the sporty 35-millimeter model with skeletonized dial, there is boundless freedom. Only quartz movements are not available, but are not missed in the tradition-rich line.

For the sporty lady: Tag Heuer Formula 1 Lady Quartz 35mm

The Tag Heuer Formula 1 Lady Quartz 35mm (Ref. WBJ1318.BA0666), on the other hand, is perfectly suited to its electric drive and almost helps it to break the 1000-euro barrier. Water-resistant to 100 meters, the sporty ladies’ watch is particularly eye-catching due to the attention to detail in its workmanship: while the mix of polished and satin-finished surfaces brings incredible value to both the case and the solid strap, the mother-of-pearl dial combines gleaming silver indexes, rhodium-plated hands and a silver brand logo to create an exclusive overall look. Sapphire crystal? A matter of course for the 35-millimeter instrument inspired by Formula 1. The fixed bezel and hand-polished crown protector make important contributions to the unbreakable feel. A watch with format for power ladies and sportswomen. Men will definitely stay under the 1000-euro mark with the male equivalent.

Upcycling with style: Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide

A wristwatch made from 17 plastic bottles? With its new Aikon #tide, Maurice Lacroix proves that sustainability in watchmaking does not have to mean doing without. On the contrary: together with #tide, a company specializing in upcycling, the Swiss premium brand has created a collection whose case, bezel and other details are made of a spectacular composite material. The latter is a symbiosis of ocean plastic and fiberglass that opens up entirely new worlds of color for the 40-millimeter Aikon models compared to metal watches. From bright yellow to cheerful pink timepieces, anything is possible.

Added to this is a high degree of versatility thanks to the “Easy Strap Exchange” system, which allows the strap to be swiftly replaced without the need for tools. You think a plastic watch can’t be stable? Far from it! Because the crown and case back are screwed down, the Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide will dive up to 100 meters. And if something goes wrong, a five-year warranty is included in the total package.

Smartwatch for all occasions: Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar

When Swiss quality awareness meets 21st century digital technology, the result is the Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar. The bolide combines a whopping 35 patents in its 47.5-millimeter titanium-ceramic case and brings along most of the functions expected from a modern smartwatch, from smartphone connectivity to various time and weather functions to an activity tracker. The Tissot’s operating concept is unique because it combines mechanical elements like a physical hand with touch functions on an energy-saving memory-in-pixel display that has high readability even in strong sunlight. The instrument also does surprisingly well outdoors in other ways, as its 100-meter water resistance demonstrates. Swiss watches under 1000 Euros? Even in combination with iOS, Android and the like, a successful concept with a flourishing future.

Der Beitrag Swiss watches under 1000 euros erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

The fascination of the watch world lies in its incredible diversity. In addition to shining stars like the Rolex Submariner or Omega Speedmaster, there are thousands of exciting models that are not in the limelight, but perform impressively from a technical and visual perspective. Today we present six of our favorite Swiss watch insider tips that will make your wrist stand out from the crowd and are highly trendy in expert circles.

Oris Aquis Date Upcycle

Recycling is an important step towards preserving nature, is very much in vogue and is used in countless products. Recently also in timepieces, as evidenced by the Oris Aquis Date as Upcycle Ref. 01 733 7766 4150 set: The 41.5-millimeter, 300-meter water-resistant diver’s watch features a dial made of recycled PET plastic, making each one unique and remarkably stand out from the crowd. Red, blue, green, yellow – the color variety of the gemstone-like surface knows no bounds. Elegant contrasts are created by the gray ceramic bezel, while the power of the Swiss watches is generated by the automatic movement 733 (base: SW200-1). With the special edition, which is also available in a smaller version (36.6 millimeters), Oris makes a statement for marine conservation and processes plastic from the ocean.

Longines Spirit Collection

Although Longines offers a fascinating history and luxurious quality standards at a relatively affordable price, the traditional brand from Saint-Imier often remains under the radar. Unjustly so, as the Longines Spirit collection unveiled in 2020 demonstrates: Launched in honor of historic explorers such as pilot Amelia Earhart or polar explorer Paul-Emile Victor, it combines timeless elegance with state-of-the-art, chronometer-certified mechanics. A prime example is the Longines Spirit Automatic 42mm (Ref. L3.820.4.93.0): Decorated with five stars on the dial, representing maximum high quality in the Longines world, it combines deep blue beauty with a stylishly implemented chronograph function.

Their power is provided by the automatic movement L688.4 with a full 60-hour power reserve, column wheel and robust silicon balance spring. On the back, the Swiss watch secret tips have a screwed case back, which reinforces the massive impression of the 16.5 millimeter high and 42 millimeter large stainless steel body. Perfect for anyone who appreciates masculine power.

Fortis Flieger F-39 Midnight Blue

One of the biggest watch insider tips in Switzerland is the Fortis brand. Those who love robust toolwatches with ingenious functionality and rich aviation history should set their sights on the Flieger collection, first launched in 1987. The Fortis Flieger in the F-39 Midnight Blue series (Ref. F4220011) in particular has captured our hearts: while the 39-millimeter slim stainless steel case with 200-meter water resistance and bidirectional 12-hour bezel provides superior functionality, the dial of the Swiss watch secret shines with two brand-specific features. Between 11 and 1 o’clock runs the orange “Synchroline”, designed for the exact synchronization of two pilot watches in formation flight.

Those who don’t regularly sit in the cockpit will derive greater benefit from the “Brixtrack”, the external minute scale with applied blocks of Superluminova X1, a special luminous material with blue afterglow. Readability: first class. The aesthetic highlight is the vivid blue hue with vertical brushing, which harmonizes excellently with the orange contrasts. Inside, we don’t find any insider tips, but a solid automatic movement UW-30 with 38 hours of power reserve.

MIDO Multifort Patrimony

Among architects, Mido’s Swiss watches are no insider tips, but for most other enthusiasts, the manufacturer is more unknown than Swatch Group sister Tissot and other brands that stand for top quality in the triple-digit price range. Those who prefer distinguished retro design with an individual touch should take a closer look at the Multifort Patrimony (Ref. M040.407.16.060.00). Not only the classic pulsometer scale of the 40-millimeter dresswatch, but also its filigree second hand, the typography of the Arabic numerals and the segmented dial with color gradient convey a piece of that charm we know from pocket watches of the 19th century. The strong curvature of the sapphire crystal also marks a visual highlight of the Patrimony. From a technical point of view, the Swiss timepieces could not have arrived more clearly in the present: a whopping 80 hours of power reserve characterize the automatic movement of this and many other insider tips in the Mido product portfolio. For lovers of the portable time stop, we recommend the chronograph versions of the Multifort Patrimony, with an elegant bicompax layout.

Zenith Chronomaster Original

If you’re looking for mechanical excellence but don’t want to sacrifice the five-figure sums of Breguet, Audemars Piguet and other high-end manufacturers, you’ll find countless Swiss watch insider tips in Zenith’s portfolio. Often overshadowed by Rolex, Breitling and Omega, the luxury brand shows the latter celebrity brands their limits when it comes to chronograph technology. Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Original (Ref. 03.3200.3600/21.M3200), whose dream diameter of 38 millimeters is home to a spectacular El Primero caliber with the typical high frequency of five hertz (36,000 vibrations per hour). Stopping time the fast way.

The dial design of this watch insider tips also marks a highlight of the Chronomaster Original: Where black and white provide an expressive play of contrasts, the three totalizers of the technical wonder can be read flawlessly. A design with character. Connoisseurs are aware of the impressive history of the El Primero caliber and pay their well-deserved respect to the Chronomaster, but the general horological community has the chronograph pioneer only sporadically on its radar amidst the Submariners, Speedmasters and Navitimers.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique

The same goes for the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, for example, in the Automatique Ref. 5015 12B30 NABA, which, while not a cheap diver’s watch, does incredible things in its price range and effortlessly outshines almost all its competitors. This starts with the dominant presence of the 45-millimeter behemoth, which is not for the faint of heart and, with its sapphire crystal bezel, provides a foretaste of the exorbitant attention to detail that the beefy manufacture piece brings to the wrist. Manual work instead of machine production is the motto to which the mechanics of the 300-meter water-resistant titanium behemoth are also subjected: the in-house caliber 1315 has been given a full 120 hours of power reserve.

Anyone who can wear the size of the Fifty Fathoms will enrich their collection with an all-rounder in a class of its own, for whom no challenge seems impossible. On the NATO bracelet, the Swiss Zeitanzeiger Geheimtipps trade in a bit of their intimidating presence for a casual, modest touch that suits the Super Diver first class. If you want to take your passion for divers to a new level with an investment of 10,000 to 15,000 euros, you’ve come to the right place.

Der Beitrag Swiss watches insider tips erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.