« Emerald, Ruby and Diamond as Watch Adornments »
For many people, a wristwatch is not just a practical instrument for telling the time, but at least as much a fashion accessory and a piece of jewelry. So it's no surprise that, especially in the luxury segment, you'll find wristwatches that, thanks to sparkling diamonds and other gemstones, can be regarded as true works of fine jewelry. In this article, we take a look into the world of gemstones and present a selection of gem-set luxury watches and diamond watches.
Jewelry Making and Goldsmithing – Close Relatives of Watchmaking
Watchmakers, goldsmiths and jewelers may practice different trades, but there are at least some points where they meet. All of them demand extremely careful, precise work and a keen sense of aesthetics. It's hardly surprising, then, that the luxury segment is home to several manufacturers who love to bring these different arts together by crafting watches that are also impressive pieces of jewelry. This applies, for example, to Chanel and Chopard watches, whose ateliers also produce extensive jewelry collections. But even among pure watch manufactures there are a number of brands that carry magnificent diamond watches in their collections and also use various other gemstones in their luxury watches, such as Hublot, Omega and U-Boat.
What Exactly Are Gemstones?
The term precious stone already suggests that these are particularly valuable stones, which in turn implies limited availability. But gemstones are not only rare; they are also especially hard and transparent. These three criteria set them apart from other ornamental stones, which include various minerals, rocks and glass melts as well as softer materials such as amber, mother-of-pearl and coral. Among the best-known and most coveted gemstones are rubies, sapphires, emeralds and topazes. Rubies and sapphires are different varieties of the mineral corundum.
While rubies are always red, sapphires come not only in the highly prized deep blue but in a range of other colors as well. Emeralds are distinguished by a rich, vivid green, while topazes are often yellowish-brown but can also display various other hues. Amethyst is also very popular for its violet color, although its somewhat lower hardness means it no longer counts as a precious stone in the strict sense. In addition, tourmaline, beryl, aquamarine and onyx are popular choices for fine jewelry and diamond watches. In most cases, a ruby or emerald is actually used only in combination with brilliant-cut diamonds, which makes these models genuine diamond watches, too.
The Diamond – "King of Gemstones" and a Favorite Watch Adornment
Today, the diamond is probably by far the best-known and most highly prized gemstone. That was by no means always the case, however. As late as the Middle Ages, other gemstones were often preferred because they shone in strong, vibrant colors, while the diamond is frequently "just" white. It is the hardest of all gemstones and fascinates above all with its brilliance.
Chemically speaking, a diamond is a special crystalline form of elemental carbon. The quality of diamonds is assessed according to four criteria: size or weight, color, clarity and cut. The great importance attached to the cut stems from the fact that many gemstones only fully unfold their captivating effect through a particular cut, since it intensifies light reflection and creates the coveted "sparkle." Cutting also gives the stones the desired shape, in which they can then be set as watch adornments or used in fine jewelry.
Brilliant or Diamond?
In connection with diamonds, people often speak of brilliants. Note, however, that the two terms are by no means synonymous. A diamond is only called a brilliant if it has been given a specific cut – the brilliant cut. Without any further qualifier, a brilliant is therefore always a diamond, but not every diamond is a brilliant. One thing is certain: watches set with brilliants are always diamond watches. The reverse is not necessarily true.
If another gemstone is given a brilliant cut, its type of gemstone must be stated in the name. Especially with white diamonds, which do not naturally shine in a particular color, it is the right cut that creates the fascinating light refraction and brilliance for which they are so sought after today.
Technological progress in gem cutting now allows far more refined and elaborate cuts than were possible in the Middle Ages. This is one of the main reasons why diamonds are by far the most popular gemstones for luxury watches and jewelry today.
Diamond Watches – Available in Many Variations
The ways gemstones can be used to adorn watches are extremely varied. There are diamond watches whose dial and case are set with countless small diamonds. In these particularly valuable pieces, the indices are sometimes made of colored gemstones or gold. Because of their high price, however, these luxury watches occupy a comparatively small niche. Far more common are watches in which the precious stones are used only in certain places, for instance as decoration on various ladies' watches such as the Breitling Navitimer Automatic 35, or as hour markers on the dial.
There are hardly any limits to the imagination of watchmakers and jewelers. Chopard's Happy Diamonds ladies' watch collection, for example, is a distinctive highlight among diamond watches, because in these models several diamonds move freely across the dial.
A Popular Adornment on Men's Watches, Too
The use of gemstones to adorn watches is by no means limited to ladies' models. In fact, there are quite a few diamond watches for men, although the stones are usually used comparatively sparingly and discreetly. Diamond hour markers are especially popular. They are found mainly on watches made of gold and other precious metals, but also appear on a number of stainless steel watches. Some examples of classic men's diamond watches in gold can be found in the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600 M Co-Axial Master Chronometer collection. Depending on the model, the indices, the bezel setting and in some cases even the lugs are made of diamonds or brilliants.
Hublot takes on the subject of men's diamond watches with exciting decoration and an unmistakable flair for extravagance. Here, the Big Bang isn't just in the watch's name. Numerous models, such as the Hublot Big Bang Evolution or the Hublot Big Bang Ceramic Blue Diamonds 41 mm, are not discreet diamond watches and never aimed to be. Instead, they more than live up to their wearer's sense of luxury – and gladly in every color of the rainbow, as the watches of the Big Bang Unico Rainbow King line impressively demonstrate. Tastes may differ here, but there's no arguing with the superb craftsmanship of watchmaker and jeweler alike.
Understated Diamond Watches
Beyond that, there are various other ways to use gemstones in luxury watches. Some watch models, for instance, feature a crown adorned with a gemstone. These aren't necessarily diamond watches, but it's certainly an attractive accent. The so-called cabochon cut is a popular choice for this, though other cuts can be found as well. Some diamond watches, usually ladies' models, carry gemstones not only on the dial or case but on the bracelet as well. These precious pieces are particularly well suited as elegant accessories for formal evening wear and can easily take the place of a pure jewelry bracelet. For women, complete jewelry sets comprising diamond watches, necklaces, rings and earrings are sometimes offered as well.
