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Majestic in appearance, functional in use: world timer watches have always held a special status in the watch world. Enthusiasts appreciate not only their exclusivity but, in an increasingly globalized society, also recognize the practical value of this storied complication. We took a closer look at the most exciting models in the current collections and explain what makes them special in everyday wear.
World Time: The First Step Toward a Connected Globe
The history of the world timer goes back to the 19th century, to 1884 to be precise: at the International Meridian Conference in Washington, D.C., the Earth was divided into 24 whole-hour time zones for the first time, and the London suburb of Greenwich was defined as the prime meridian. The time there is known as Coordinated Universal Time (UTC).
Considering the sheer chaos of earlier years – in 18th-century America alone there were more than 60 time zones based on the position of the sun – the need for this step becomes all the clearer.
Modern world timers therefore feature a city ring that represents at least 24 time zones by their best-known metropolis. Why at least 24? Some countries, such as India, North Korea, or Nepal, do not observe whole-hour offsets – Nepal, for example, is exactly four hours and 45 minutes ahead of Coordinated Universal Time. Some high-end models therefore display up to 37 cities, covering every whole-, half-, and quarter-hour time zone on Earth.
Everyday Function: How Do You Read the Time Zones Correctly?
"Is the city ring really set correctly?" – many watch enthusiasts using a world timer for the first time probably ask themselves this or a similar question. Although individual watches differ in how they are operated, so there is no universal "recipe" for using them, the process is generally very simple and intuitive. Let's look at setting the complication using the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture by Frederique Constant as an example.
With its elegant look, which includes a world map at the center as well as a date display at 6 o'clock, this timepiece is one of the most popular world timers in the moderate price range. To adjust the city ring, pull the crown out to the first position and turn it counterclockwise until your own time zone (here marked by "Geneva") sits exactly at the 12 o'clock position.
As with most conventional watches, the time is set by pulling the crown all the way out. When you turn it, the numbered 24-hour disc on the dial moves together with the hands. It keeps all 24 displayed time zones synchronized. The movement of the disc ensures that the time you set is shown not only by the hands but also in 24-hour format on the disc. So if you want to set "10 p.m.," the disc will show the number "22" at the 12 o'clock position (which indicates the current location, "Geneva"), standing for 22:00. All other time zones can now be read off the disc with ease.
The Variety: Which World Timers Are Especially Appealing?
The operating principle of the Frederique Constant applies to many, but by no means all, world timers. The Nomos Glashütte Zürich Weltzeit, for instance, has an additional pusher that advances the city ring by one time zone with each press. Its modern, highly pared-back design sets the Nomos Glashütte apart from the many classically styled watches of this type and makes it particularly appealing to younger wearers.
If you prefer something more traditional, the new Breitling Navitimer 8 Unitime is a companion as exclusive as it is functional. Available in five different designs, it combines the Swiss luxury brand's rich aviation heritage with modern touches.
Its finely textured bezel, transparent sapphire crystal caseback, and timeless dial lettering undoubtedly make the Unitime one of the most beautiful world timer watches of our time. A special feature is the display of various daylight saving times alongside the 24 whole-hour standard time zones.
Luxury and Prestige – The Special Status of the World Timer
One price bracket above the Breitling Navitimer sits the Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One, with which the Geneva manufacture ventured into the world timer category for the first time in 2016. The stainless steel, rose gold, and platinum versions alike prove to be true high-end models in terms of elegance and material quality. The Chopard performs its function masterfully: with color-contrasted markings, a high-contrast 24-hour display, and a comfortable 42 mm size, it comes very close to the ideal of a luxury world timer. In this way, the Time Traveler One embodies the exclusive character that has always defined watches of this kind.
It is not only their rarity compared with other types of watches but also their quite literally global outlook that sets them apart from the crowd. Anyone who wears a world timer cares about the big picture rather than small events. Yet this unique complication not only underscores the importance, often even the senior professional standing, of its wearer – it also awakens wanderlust, the desire to discover every facet of our planet. Few other watches can match that.
Everyday Use – What to Consider Before Buying
Before purchasing a world timer, it's a good idea to take a closer look at how your preferred model is operated. While on some watches, such as the Breitling Unitime, both the city ring and the 24-hour disc move, on other timepieces the city ring is fixed. Setting the time can also be done in various ways.
The perfect world timer for your needs should therefore appeal not only visually but also in everyday use. And one last important piece of advice: some model names, such as that of the Oris Artelier World Timer, give the impression of a "true" world timer, when in reality it is a GMT model.
GMT watches differ fundamentally from world timers in the strict sense, since instead of 24 time zones they display only one additional time zone by means of an extra hand.
And it's not just Oris – other manufacturers occasionally use the name for their GMT variants as well. Taking a closer look at each edition is therefore strongly advised.
