« Luxury with Nautical Caliber »
Ever since the first precise marine chronometers for determining longitude were successfully built in the 18th century, seafaring has been inextricably linked with advanced timekeeping. From Breguet to MÜHLE Glashütte, many watch brands look back on a rich maritime history and keep that heritage alive in their current collections. Let's set sail and explore some of the most spectacular marine watches of 2022 – no tall tales, we promise!What Defines a Marine Watch?
First made suitable for mass production by John Harrison in 1759, mechanical marine chronometers had to meet the highest precision standards of their day and were essential for navigation on the high seas. Today's marine wristwatches don't differ systematically from other timepieces; rather, it is their history that sets them apart from other types of watches. Breguet, for example, can build its Marine collection on the proud role of the company's founder as French Minister of the Navy, while Mühle Glashütte maintains its own division for producing nautical instruments – nautical heritage even features in the manufacturer's logo. How far a watch's technology, beyond its looks and marketing, is optimized for use at sea depends on the manufacturer. Sinn, for instance, builds marine watches for the maritime special forces of the GSG 9, which requires extensive adaptation for offshore deployment.
MÜHLE Glashütte Seebataillon GMT
Designed as a mission watch for the German Navy's Seebataillon, this marine watch (Ref. M1-28-62-KB) offers 300 meters of water resistance and a second time zone for soldiers who are frequently deployed abroad. On the dial, double indices and a split triangular marker ensure outstanding legibility day and night, further enhanced by the substantial 45-millimeter case diameter. To still ensure good ergonomics, the case is made of lightweight titanium and features an offset crown at 4 o'clock to keep it from digging into the back of your hand. For all its professionalism, the MÜHLE Glashütte Seebataillon GMT doesn't skimp on emotional details: a display caseback, for example, offering an unobstructed view of the automatic SW 330-1 (Mühle version). No question: this marine watch has earned its title.
Sinn UX S GSG 9
The 44-millimeter Sinn UX S GSG 9 (Ref. 403.062) also strives for maximum professionalism, starting with the special case hardening (TEGIMENT Technology) followed by a PVD coating and continuing inside, where HYDRO Technology uses an oil filling to make these marine watches perfectly reflection-free to read. The case's water resistance is jaw-dropping: made of German submarine steel, it withstands an incredible 12,000 meters of depth (1,200 bar of pressure), putting the entire dive watch market in the shade. Even so, things could get uncomfortable at the bottom of the Mariana Trench, since the marine watch's special quartz movement can "only" handle 5,000 meters of water depth. That's still an unrivaled figure, and it makes the Sinn UX the official service watch of the GSG 9's maritime special unit. Extensive testing in accordance with European diving equipment standards ensures that every UX keeps its promises on missions where lives are at stake.
Breguet Marine Automatic
The Breguet Marine Automatic (Ref. 5517BB/Y2/5ZU) brings pure luxury to the wrist: crafted from 18-karat white gold, the 40-millimeter timepiece catches the eye with the gorgeous blue of its dial, whose center is crowned by an elaborate wave pattern. Somewhat surprising for a handcrafted piece from the very top tier is the sporty rubber strap, which nonetheless suits the Marine superbly and is finished off with a folding clasp in the same prestigious material as the case. Whether we would really take this luxurious work of art, priced well into five figures, out for tough duty at sea is something we rather doubt. We'd sooner admire the automatic in-house caliber 777A, take in the bold Roman numerals, and relax in the knowledge that the Marine is water-resistant to 100 meters – though we'd prefer not to put that to the test.
MIDO Ocean Star Chronograph
You can push the MIDO Ocean Star Chronograph (Ref. M026.627.37.051.00) to its limits with far less heartache. With its 44-millimeter diameter and black-coated stainless steel case, it has a commanding presence on the wrist. A particular highlight is the nautical tachymeter scale for calculating speed in nautical miles, but the Ocean Star's history also speaks for itself: first introduced in 1944, it was one of the world's first water-resistant watches, thanks to its stainless steel monocoque case and a specially developed cork gasket. The model shown here can dive to 200 meters and, with its automatic chronograph, offers a function that by no means every marine watch can claim. Our verdict: an outstanding overall package at a fair price.
Fortis Marinemaster
Inspired by cool mountain water, the new Serenity Blue color of the Fortis Marinemaster (Ref. F8120004) is meant to bring peace of mind and relaxation to its wearer. Given its exceptional sustainability, that's no problem: the 40-millimeter case of these marine watches is made of recycled steel, offers 200 meters of water resistance, and comes with a technical innovation. The so-called Gear Bezel is a black stainless steel bezel optimized for maximum grip. The watch won't slip out of sight any more than out of your hand, because high-end Super-LumiNova X1 luminous material ensures an especially bright glow in the dark. Our tip: order the Marinemaster on the "Horizon Strap", a stylish rubber strap, and you're guaranteed a perfect color match between dial and strap.
U-Boat Classico 45 Bronzo A BR
The extravagant creations from U-Boat are marine watches through and through – after all, the manufacturer's entire history is built on blueprints that the grandfather of current owner and design fanatic Italo Fontana developed for the Italian Navy during World War II. The U-Boat Classico 45 Bronzo A BR (Ref. 8103) is one of the most striking pieces in the current lineup – not because of its 45-millimeter diameter, but because of its bronze case with a left-hand crown and crown guard. In true U-Boat fashion, the dial features oversized numerals at 4, 8, and 12 o'clock.
U-Boat Classico 38 Pink Mother of Pearl
The same layout also defines the dial of the U-Boat Classico 38 Pink Mother of Pearl (Ref. 8480), which combines the marine watch concept with feminine accents, from the pink mother-of-pearl dial to the diamond-set numerals. This ladies' watch inherits the left-hand crown with crown guard from its big brothers, but not their dimensions – 38 millimeters is a well-proportioned size. With 50 meters of water resistance, the Classico is no high-performance marine watch from a functional standpoint, but who cares? Ladies with a penchant for exotic, confident statements on the wrist should definitely get to know this gem.
