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Neon, denim, sneakers: the '80s shaped fashion and lifestyle in unforgettable ways. Today, many trends from that bold decade are back in style – especially in the world of watches. From two-tone to quartz, we show you the most popular watches of the '80s, introduce their modern successors and explain which tastes these reborn retro watches suit best.
Which trends shaped '80s watches?
Loud colors, wild designs and mirror-polished yellow gold: decadence plays a central role in the watch designs of the '80s. The decade was an era of urbanization that brought many young people a kind of big-city prosperity they wanted to show off on the wrist. Probably the most defining expression of this exclusivity is the two-tone design, meaning watches that combine two metals (typically gold and stainless steel). They are considered the ultimate '80s style and – against all expectations – are now back in fashion. A second, highly distinctive trend of the decade is large, often chunky cases built for maximum robustness, with a confident wrist presence as a welcome side effect.
On the technical side, '80s watches display an exciting mix of quartz and automatic movements. Unlike the '70s, when the quartz crisis peaked and mechanical timepieces were declared dead, the '80s brought a gradual return to traditional mechanics. Electronic movements were still widespread thanks to their advantages - high precision at a low price - but people gradually rediscovered the cultural value of mechanical watches. Suddenly it was cool again to watch a balance wheel tick, knowing that a well-maintained mechanical companion would last for decades.
Rolex, Tudor, Omega: two-tone is back
Without a doubt, one of the most popular watches of the '80s is the Rolex Datejust Two Tone, worn by pop stars and Wall Street bankers alike and trending again today not despite but precisely because of its unmistakable '80s look. The difference: 40 years later, steel is more often paired with Everose rather than yellow gold. Otherwise, today's Rolex Datejust Two Tone is every bit the equal of its predecessors: besides the signature fluted bezel and the large Cyclops date magnifier, the sporty-elegant basic design has barely changed over the decades. If you order the modern Datejust and want the pure '80s look, choose the yellow gold Ref. 126233 on a Jubilee bracelet, close your eyes and imagine racing through Miami in a Ferrari Testarossa.
Sister brand Tudor is also enjoying great success reviving two-tone vintage watches, as the Tudor Black Bay Heritage S&G (Ref. M79733N-0008) proves. Without screaming for attention, the 41 mm diver makes a strong statement for the '80s lifestyle and offers an incredible amount of watch for the money. Alongside (a little) 18k yellow gold, it brings a chronometer-certified in-house MT5612 movement with a 70-hour power reserve to the wrist, complemented by 200 meters of water resistance and historic hallmarks such as the Snowflake hour hand.
If you prefer a more understated take on two-tone than the Rolex and the Black Bay Heritage S&G, we recommend the Omega Seamaster 300 Sedna Gold Bicolor (Ref. 210.22.42.20.01.002). The iconic dive watch elegantly unites its proprietary reddish gold with black ceramic and a sleek stainless steel case. Top-tier technology, including a Co-Axial in-house movement, 300 meters of water resistance and a display caseback, rounds out the diver.
Chunky and rugged: oversized retro watches
For our next '80s trend, the prime example isn't the luxurious Omega Seamaster 300 Sedna Gold Bicolor, but a Seiko diver with legendary status: the Turtle. Although this deliberately chunky dive watch, whose case shape recalls a turtle shell, debuted back in the '60s, today we associate its aesthetic far more with the '80s. The decade was defined not by understatement but by the open display of rugged, confident designs. Today, we find those above all in the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive: models such as the popular Spring Drive with GMT function (Ref. SBGA229) combine world-renowned craftsmanship with handsome design, yet with a diameter of over 44 millimeters they speak a clear language: "I'm the boss here." This is what '80s watches look like at their best.
What this Grand Seiko diver and the other members of the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive achieve, the Swiss also master with flying colors. An outstanding example of '80s design is the current Fortis Classic Cosmonauts Steel A.M. (Ref. F2140000): ever since its debut nearly 40 years ago, the 42 mm model has spoken a crystal-clear functional language. No attempts at aesthetic perfection – instead, large numerals, an easy-to-read tachymeter scale and plenty of lume define the no-nonsense look of this beast. The Fortis Classic Cosmonauts Steel A.M. sees itself as a tool and expresses that character unmistakably with '80s self-confidence.
Electronic timekeeping: from Casio to the smartwatch
Some of the most popular watches of the '80s are electronic, and none could represent the decade more fittingly than the Casio Collection Unisex Digital Watch. Digital displays on the wrist first appeared in the '70s, but they reached their widest popularity in the following decade and shaped the daily life of an entire generation - from schoolkids to executives. The original vintage watches are still available at low prices today; if you want additional functions and more modern designs, the various versions of the Casio Collection Unisex Digital Watch offer contemporary alternatives. Our tip: if you want to combine two hallmarks of '80s watches at once, order the digital Casio with a gold-plated case.
Today's smartwatches such as the TAG Heuer Connected also have their roots in the '80s. Of course, there were no internet-enabled computers on the wrist back then, but many manufacturers laid the foundation for their electronic watch development during the '80s. TAG Heuer, for example, launched its Formula 1 collection in 1986 and captured the zeitgeist with bright colors, simple quartz movements and lightweight plastic cases. The beefy design was no facade: the brand gave its entry-level model a hefty 200 meters of water resistance, and it quickly became one of the most popular watches of the '80s. If you want only the '80s aesthetic on your wrist while enjoying the technical benefits of the 21st century, the current TAG Heuer Connected is a smart choice: the smartwatch lets you change the dial design whenever you like.
