« On the Eye-Catcher and Functional Extension of a Watch Component »
From vital timing during a dive to reading additional time zones while traveling and calculating average speeds in a race car: the functional range of the bezel is boundless. Available in a variety of constructions and materials, it ranks among the most important components of many modern watches, from both a practical and an aesthetic point of view. We explain the different functions, materials and designs of the ring that was originally created solely to hold the crystal in place.
What Is the Bezel of a Watch?
At its most basic, the term refers to nothing more than the ring surrounding the dial. A bezel doesn't have to rotate or be elaborately designed to earn the name. It can be extra thick, like the Rolex bezel on the Sea-Dweller, or wafer-thin, like the ring on a Junghans Max Bill. In every case, its core function is to hold the watch crystal, which protects the dial and hands from external influences.
The component takes its name from the French "lunette" ("little moon"), because it encircles the dial the way the moon orbits the Earth. Apart from the simple fixed bezel without markings, as found on the Rolex Datejust, for example, four key special types of bezel have become established since the mid-20th century, which we explain in the following sections.
1.) Unidirectional Rotating Dive Bezels
From the Omega bezel on a Seamaster to the iconic rotating bezel of a Rolex Submariner: the dive bezel is the functional classic for any time spent in the ocean. Why it may only turn in one direction becomes clear from how it is used: typically fitted with a 60-minute scale, it is turned at the start of the dive so that the triangle marker lines up with the current position of the minute hand. With an ascending minute scale ("count-up"), the diver can then see at any moment how much time has elapsed since descending.
Accidentally turning it forward, as is possible with bidirectional bezels, would be fatal, because it would trick the wearer into believing their air tank would last longer. The same applies to the descending countdown scale, where you have to synchronize the current position of the minute hand with the maximum dive time (e.g., 20 minutes). Once the minute hand reaches the marker, it is high time to surface. Most dive bezels click into 60 positions; some versions use 120 clicks.
2.) Fixed Chronograph Bezels with Tachymeter Scale
On chronographs such as the famous Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, the tachymeter scale is one of the most important style elements. It doesn't require a rotating bezel; instead, it sits on a fixed ring and is used to measure average speeds. The principle is simple: you start the stopwatch, cover a set distance and read off the number at which the seconds hand is stopped. After 20 seconds, for example, it points to "180."
If the race driver had covered exactly one kilometer in 20 seconds, the average speed would be 180 km/h. This works not only in kilometers per hour, but in any other unit in which the time interval between two units is measured.
3.) Bidirectional Rotating GMT Bezels with 24-Hour Scale
If a watch has a second hour hand to display an additional time zone (GMT complication), it often features a bidirectional rotating bezel with a 24-hour scale. Because the GMT hand makes only one rotation every 24 hours, the scale shows the exact time of day or night in the desired time zone – provided the rotating bezel is in its standard position, with the "24" at the top center.
By turning the bezel clockwise (negative time difference) or counterclockwise (positive time difference), you can even display a third time zone relative to the reference time. To tell daytime and nighttime hours apart, Rolex created what are probably the most famous bezel designs of all time for the GMT-Master II: the red-and-blue Pepsi bezel and the black-and-blue Batman bezel.
[box type="note" align="" class="" width=""]Both color schemes have been widely adopted by other manufacturers and give the original models enormous collector value, reflected in market prices well above the MSRP.[/box]
4.) Slide Rule Bezels
The most prominent Breitling bezel was launched in 1952 on the Navitimer and revolutionized the non-digital world of aviation. For the first time, pilots could use one and the same instrument to calculate their rates of climb and descent, distance traveled, fuel consumed so far and numerous other figures that could be a matter of life and death in an emergency. Explaining the slide rule in detail here would go beyond the scope of this article.
What is certain is that this seemingly complex arrangement of scales, more than any other element, is responsible for the unmistakable look of the Navitimer. If you wear a slide rule watch, it is worth learning how it works so you can carry out everyday operations such as the rule of three, currency conversions and multiplication in no time.
Key Questions About the Bezel, Answered Briefly:
A rotating bezel lets the wearer use special functions quickly and easily, for example monitoring dive time underwater or quickly converting currencies or units of measurement.
Materials: Aluminum or Ceramic?
When it comes to bezel materials, the choice is often between aluminum and ceramic. Aluminum is lightweight and inexpensive but scratches easily, while ceramic is heavier but also scratch-resistant and more durable.Bezels without an additional function, such as the fluted bezel of a Rolex Datejust, usually share the steel of the case or are made from a contrasting material such as gold to create a two-tone look.
With dive watches and other watches with an inset scale, however, a distinction must be made between the bezel itself and the so-called insert, which is fitted into the ring.
The insert is typically made of aluminum or ceramic:
- Aluminum: Characterized by its matte finish, aluminum is often found on entry-level models and, despite its protective coating, is highly prone to scratches. Another drawback of the material, which has roughly the same hardness as a stainless steel case, is that its colors fade with regular exposure to sunlight. On the plus side, aluminum inserts are inexpensive to replace.
- Ceramic: Around five times harder than aluminum, the ceramic insert is the gold standard in the world of bezel materials. Its complex production makes the glossy look the natural choice for high-quality, expensive watches, which benefit from the insert's extreme scratch resistance, heat resistance and lasting depth of color. Things get especially complex with multicolored versions such as the Pepsi bezel, which require a crisp separation of colors. Drawbacks of the ceramic bezel: its high price, the fact that it often cannot be replaced and the risk of it breaking under heavy pressure.
The Possibilities Are Endless
Beyond aluminum and ceramic, there are dozens of ways to design a bezel. A popular option is a sapphire crystal overlay, as found on the high-end Blancpain Fifty Fathoms dive watch, which takes scratch resistance to the extreme and creates an elegant glossy look. Titanium carbide coatings are also growing in popularity.
Innovations such as the TEGIMENT technology from Frankfurt-based manufacturer Sinn rely on surface hardening of the stainless steel and do without any coating at all. Older models of the Rolex Daytona are further examples of watches that dispense with an insert entirely.
