Grandes Complications from Patek Philippe, Royal Oaks Offshore from Audemars Piguet or a limited edition Bing Bang from Hublot: Almost worthless for many people are the investment tips of discerning watch collectors, because they fail due to the financial possibilities. The good news: watches that retain their value can be affordable, and historical examples prove that it is precisely the beginner models that like to turn into precious rarities.

The secret of high-yield watches – a flair for the special and connections to the good fairy

In 1963 Rolex launched a chronograph with a link to racing, which could not keep up with the highlights of the Geneva luxury brand at the time. The usual sales price of around 200 US dollars, which would correspond to around 2,000 euros today, was therefore moderate. Daytona sports watches caused a sensation in 2017 when a vintage example changed hands for $17 million.

Part of the reason for the record price was that it was an heirloom of Paul Newman, the legendary actor who was an avid racing driver and went all out as the main actor in the 1969 motorsport drama film “Winning” on the Indianapolis circuit. The icing on the cake for collectors with the right nose: Those who opted for the underestimated and therefore cheap sports watch early on can look forward to a value of up to 500,000 euros today. Of course, this is an exception that is more than stable in value, but Rolex, Omega and Co. still offer watches from time to time that watch investors enthusiastically add to the list. And of course there are always models that you own because a good nose already gave an idea of the surprise coup special increase in value.

Safe bet – design classics from Rolex

The story makes it clear how many factors beyond design, workmanship and technology ensure that a luxury watch not only retains its value, but also generates lucrative returns. “Waterproof” forecasts would be dubious as to which brand new model will impress with its increase in value in the future. What is clear, however, is that the classics from Rolex, which tend to be simpler than ostentatious, have shone as watches of stable value for decades.

The catch: Waiting lists make it difficult to access the popular watch collections, which are brand new and expensive. It is therefore clever to look for a used time piece from a reputable specialist dealer. Documentation and presentation are just as important as excellent condition. If you get hold of an impeccable full set, a discreet evergreen from Rolex will also prove to be at least stable in value – for example the purist Oyster Perpetual 41.

Adventurers from Omega with an everlasting power of fascination

When it comes to a watch that will retain its value, Omega is regularly referred to. The traditional Swiss brand has always inspired people with its pioneering spirit – in advanced watch technology and the conquering of new spheres. It shapes the Seamaster diving icon as well as the Speedmaster, which was the first wristwatch in space and on the moon. Classically designed representatives of the legendary collections are regarded as watches that retain their value. The Diver 300M Chronograph or the Professional Moonwatch are good examples of this.

Is there a thirst for adventure, daring to invest in a watch? The Speedmaster owes its current popularity to the fact that NASA certified it as “moonworthy”. In the meantime, Omega has managed to have a professional watch qualified for Mars expeditions by the European Space Agency. For example, it takes into account that the days on the red planet are 39 minutes longer.

There is currently little interest in the Speedmaster Marstimer with a multifunction quartz movement when it comes to investing in watches that retain their value. However, the Titan visionary could become a lucrative star if the first manned flight to Mars succeeds. NASA expects this to happen in around 20 years.

TAG Heuer – traditionally open to new ideas

In the portfolio of the manufacturer based in Le-Chaux-de-Fonds, you will discover manufactory watches that are reminiscent of the masterpieces by Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe in terms of craftsmanship and price. At the same time, TAG Heuer has a heart for luxury watch fans with smaller wallets. These models are often bought to be worn all the time. Because of the unavoidable signs of wear, these everyday companions are basically not stable in value in the sense of an investment. If you think of the personal benefit and the emotional bond, the investment pays off several times over. If you reach for unusual novelties, the used time indicators can still turn out to be comparatively stable in value at some point.

TAG Heuer was one of the luxury brands that ventured into the field of quartz watches with digital displays – with the sobering realization that cheap manufacturers soon copied the spectacular innovations. They often languished in drawers after excessive use. They are now in demand as a vintage statement and fetch surprisingly high prices.

It is quite possible that with the Aquaracer Professional Solargraph, TAG Heuer not only has its finger on the pulse of the times, but also the taste of the future. The “sundial” made of durable titanium, water-resistant to a depth of 200 m, supplies itself with energy. In this way, it pays tribute to the increasing awareness of a sustainable lifestyle in a forward-looking and timelessly chic manner, which could one day inspire watch collectors or retro fans.

Award-winning and irresistibly beautiful – watch collections from Nomos Glashütte

Watches that retain their value are not only found in Switzerland, but also in Germany. Those who know the profession are just as aware of this as they are of the long watchmaking tradition in Glashütte. The location was chosen by the manufacturer Nomos, which – like Hublot – is comparatively young. In contrast to the luxury brand based in Nyon, the East German company scores with a fantastic price-performance ratio.

When it was launched in 1992, the Tangente wristwatches did not receive the feedback they deserved for their design and watch technology. Nevertheless, they turned out to be watches of stable value. In the meantime, three times the original purchase price is paid for well-groomed debutantes. Experience shows that award-winning models can also increase in value.

This puts the spotlight on the Tangente Neomatik in platinum grey, which won the iF Award 2023 for its remarkably simple and flat design. In theory, the award winner has the best chance of distinguishing itself as a watch with stable value. In practice, one can hardly resist the temptation to take the modern beauty of Nomos Glashütte out of the leather case and admire it on the wrist every day.

Precious for life across generations – Frederique Constant

Cool calculators see the value-stable watch as an attractive alternative to the bank account, in order to build up reserves with as few losses as possible. Anyone who finds timepieces for the wrist to be practical above all will measure their value in terms of functionality and aesthetics, which are attractive in the long term. Frederique Constant scores on needs without expecting big investments.

Time, date, moon phase: the timelessly elegant Classic Heart Beat Moonphase men’s watches are informative. This information does not lose its value even in the advanced digital age – especially when it is displayed without resource expenditure thanks to the mechanical movement with automatic winding. Long-lasting workmanship is important to Frederique Constant. Nothing stands in the way of the grandson’s wish to wear the heirloom enthusiastically.

Der Beitrag Watches stable in value erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

In 729 million years, it will still run precisely to the second: The NPL-CsF2 atomic clock in London. Neither quartz watches nor mechanical timekeepers can match this precision. But which brands do you have to visit to find the most accurate mechanical watches? From Breitling to Zenith, our magazine shows you the most accurate automatic movements in the industry and explains why luck also plays a role in the purchase.

Gear deviation: measurement of precision

To determine how accurate a wristwatch is, the daily deviation from perfect time is measured. If this were zero seconds, we could speak of perfect precision and the timepiece would be a serious competitor for the NPL-CsF2 atomic clock. In reality, however, this is never the case: even quartz clocks, which are known for their exceptional accuracy, move away from atomic time by a few seconds per year. An exception are radio-controlled clocks, which do not generate permanent rate deviations due to their regular synchronization with international time signal transmitters. In the mechanical universe, however, different standards apply: top-of-the-range watches stay within the window of -2/+2 seconds daily, but even five seconds difference would be a reasonable value. In the entry-level range of mechanical watches, even 20 seconds of rate deviation per day can be tolerated. Of course, these are not the most accurate watches in the industry.

Rolex: From Datejust 41 to Submariner the strictest criteria

These days, many watch enthusiasts question whether the prices of new Rolex watches are still justified. However, there is one thing that cannot be debated: The rigorous precision standards of the traditional Geneva brand. While the COSC still allows deviations of -4/+6 seconds a day to pass in its testing procedures, watches with the five-pointed crown in their latest generation of calibers must meet -2/+2 second accuracy. The Rolex Datejust 41 was one of the first watches to enjoy the pleasure of what is currently Rolex’s most accurate self-winding 3235 movement: Thanks to a new barrel, the patented Chronergy escapement with Parachrom hairspring and other technical details, the manufacture movement is not only extremely precise, but also has a considerable power reserve of 70 hours.

Breitling, Tag Heuer and Co.: Many brands rely on COSC

Compliance with such extremely precise standards of accuracy involves a great deal of technical effort and is difficult to achieve, especially in lower price ranges. Many manufacturers from entry-level to high-end therefore rely on the standardized, globally recognized testing procedure of the official Swiss chronometer testing body COSC. Even Rolex has its watches issued the coveted certificate and additionally applies its more stringent in-house criteria. Consequently, by no means all COSC-certified timepieces are equally precise; if you’re looking for the most accurate watches, Breitling, for example, is the place to go. In addition to the in-house B01 automatic movement, the B20, developed in cooperation with Tudor and used in the Breitling Superocean Heritage II, also stands out for its accurate rate. Durable and technically balanced, it is respected throughout the industry, offering 70 hours of endurance and meeting COSC guidelines with flying colors.

In addition to the Breitling Superocean Heritage II, the TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber 36 deserves a special mention: To build the automatic movement, the Swiss manufacturer used the technical know-how of LVMH’s sister company Zenith, which has one of the most precise and best movements of all time in its program with the El Primero. Its high frequency of five hertz, which plays into the cards of a precise gait, is adopted by the TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber 36 and paired with a 50-hour power reserve. If you’re looking for the most accurate watches at relatively affordable prices, you’ve come to the right place.

Omega: METAS certificate for highest accuracy

More stringent in comparison to the COSC is the precision measurement of the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), which has gained a high profile primarily through Omega, but is in principle open to all brands. In order to identify the most accurate mechanical watches, METAS, in contrast to the COSC, carries out precision measurement in six instead of five layers, tests entire watches instead of pure movements, and attaches importance to a high magnetic field resistance of 15,000 gauss. Eight different tests must be completed under the influence of this magnetic field, and the watches must not deviate more than 5 seconds a day from perfect time.

A prime example of the performance of METAS movements is the caliber 8800 in the Omega Planet Ocean 600M: its free sprung balance with silicon hairspring ensures exceptional longevity and precision, while the rhodium-plated finish with Côtes de Genève arabesques is a highlight for the eye. Not to be missed is the in-house Co-Axial escapement. Despite 600 meters of water resistance, the Omega Planet Ocean manages to reveal its precise beauty through a glass back. 55 hours of power reserve is a decent value.

Zenith El Primero: King of precise chronograph movements

Zenith comes closer to the accuracy of radio-controlled watches than any other mechanical brand. Although the “normal” El Primero calibers are already extremely precise with their beat frequency of five hertz, the Defy collection breaks records with the Inventor: the technical masterpiece achieves an incredible 18 hertz (129,600 vibrations per hour) thanks to the in-house, patented Zenith Oscillator in caliber 9100, which replaces around 30 components of a standard movement in one piece. The precision of this Zenith El Primero is in heavenly spheres: A maximum of 0.3 seconds of rate deviation per day sets new standards for mechanical watches.

Variance: Why precision is a matter of luck

A glance at the precision standards of COSC, METAS and others reveals that the accuracy of mechanical watches can only ever be guaranteed within a certain range, such as -5/+5 seconds of daily rate deviation. In plain language, this means that every watch ticks a little differently, which is due not only to tiny mechanical differences, but also to the smallest differences in regulation. You have to keep in mind that one day comprises 86,400 seconds; if two watches differ by five seconds, the continuity of production is still impressive. Whether you as a buyer get a specimen close to the zero-second limit or the five-second maximum deviation is a matter of luck.

Junghans: accurate radio-controlled watches for absolute precision

Whether it’s Junghans Force or Junghans Spektrum, anyone looking for perfect precision synchronized with atomic time signal transmitters should set their sights on the radio-controlled collections from the traditional Black Forest brand. You can’t be lucky or unlucky here, because the modern radio technology achieves the same result in every watch. The all-ceramic Junghans Force is particularly modern and minimalist, while the Junghans Spektrum follows a more traditional aesthetic with Arabic numerals and a ceramic bicolor stainless steel case.

Der Beitrag What are the most accurate watches in the industry? erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.