Sensational start, but in the wrong year…

When the manufacturer presents old models for underwater missions, it starts with the legendary Marine. An extendable strap, square shape and a double case with a plug-in mechanism in which the crown disappeared: the Tool Watch developed in 1932 was brimming with ingenious solutions and even mastered impressive functional tests. Professional divers slipped into their bulky suits to prove its water resistance at a depth of 73 meters in Lake Geneva. The ocean explorers applauded. Otherwise, the feedback was muted because the usefulness was not apparent to the general public.

100th anniversary of the brand and the birth of a brand icon

A few years later, sporty wristwatches hit the nerve of the times. Military missions showed that even in the airborne forces, contact with water was not out of the question and the timepiece had to be able to withstand it. The idea can be transferred to everyday life and in 1948 led to the sports watches that can be recognized today by the seahorse on the back. The robust case, the sturdy lugs and the striking indices and numbers: All of this served functionality and was at the same time aesthetically unconventional for old models. The contrast between the sporty design elements and the noble tenor of the water-resistant watch legend was also striking.

Vintage originals are rare and technically outdated. This is why Omega is beaming old watches from the Seamaster Automatic into the present – for example with the Co-Axial Master Chronometer 1948. The homage retains the post-war design, but integrates state-of-the-art watch technology. Case and dial in platinum, indices and hands in gold: the material performance suggests that this nostalgic tribute is no bargain. The Seamaster was well received at its debut because it was made for challenges in the air, on land and at sea. The Omega models in the Aqua Terra family have been building on this promising multifunctionality for several years.

Quality leap from waterproof timepiece to the first diver’s watch

When scuba divers with a penchant for great timepieces see this Omega Seamaster in the model overview, their hearts leap for joy: in 1957, this icon featured a new type of crown seal and a specially sealed crystal of considerable thickness. Its developers also thought about the finer points of safety: the diver’s bezel was designed so that it could not be accidentally adjusted. The name of the first Omegas for professional diving was “Seamaster 300”, which can be misleading: The water resistance system did not extend to 30 bar, but to 20 bar. The same applied to the second edition in 1963, in which the luminous bezel was one of the improvements.

The diving icon has remained true to its look for many years – apart from varying hand shapes. So that fans of the design icon do not have to fall back on old models, the Seamaster 300 also appears in the current brand range – as a chronometer with caliber 8912 and 30 bar water resistance. As part of the anniversary edition, a stylish version in summery ocean blue was added in 2023.

Tool watches that are not afraid of depths

When you look at old Omega Seamaster models, it becomes clear that the manufacturer focused on improving the technical setting for professional use. To this end, it was also prepared to implement unusual ideas. The Bullhead was originally developed for rally sport with an asymmetrical case shape and operating elements at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions.

In addition to the pressure load during deep-sea diving, the penetration of helium atoms is a neuralgic functional risk. The slightest mishap can be life-threatening during extreme expeditions under the sea surface. With the Seamaster Polprof, all aesthetic requirements were therefore put aside and the focus was on deep-sea suitability – with the single-shell case, the bezel lock with red pusher and the counter nut on the crown. The quintessence was a water resistance system that at that time reached a depth of 600 m and in the newer model versions even works up to 1,200 m. When it comes to Omega watches for men, old models with an eccentric look are in demand. The Bullhead and Ploprof therefore still enrich the brand portfolio.

In 1976, the big hit in terms of pressure stability was achieved: aesthetically, it was based on the first diver’s watch, but retained the left-sided crown position of the Ploprof. What was new was not only the domed “Pilot Line” case, but also the water resistance of this Seamaster to 1000 meters. It remained unsurpassed until 2009 and was brilliantly surpassed by the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep in 2019.

During a world record dive, she ventured to the deepest point of the Mariana Trench with Victor Vescovo. The expedition watch with a load capacity of 600 bar has been part of the regular range since 2022. Is a little less enough? Then a Planet Ocean diver’s watch, which is water-resistant up to 600 m, will convince you.

James Bond’s favorite watch – Omega Diver

The chronicles reveal that Omega took a breather from diving watches to come up with a new collection in 1993. Anyone who has old models of the Omega Seamaster Automatic in mind will immediately disagree: it actually made its debut around 20 years earlier, when the Diver 120m was presented as the first chronograph suitable for underwater use. The brand built on this sensation, adding a chic look and giving the sports watch both a helium valve and 30-bar water resistance.

Since then, the Diver has enjoyed a large fan base, which means that there are many old and new versions with the wave pattern on the dial. Classic diving timepieces are just as much a part of the collection as chronographs, where even the most demanding secret agents will find what they are looking for.

James Bond has been committed to the diver’s watch since 1995 and received the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m as a new model: it inspires with a retro look and was seen in the 2021 agent movie “No Time to Die”.

An Omega Seamaster model overview that covers all the old variants…

…would be endless. If you scroll through the “Vintage Museum” on the brand’s website, you won’t believe your eyes. There are so many old models that even the manufacturer can only sketch some of them. To date, more than 300 calibers have been installed in the diver’s watches. Omega regularly introduces a new model of the Seamaster Diver 300m. The same applies to the Aqua Terra. Diversity is a success factor for the Omega Seamaster, which applies to both old models and new releases. A model history that would fill thick books is the other side of the coin.

Der Beitrag Model history: Omega Seamaster old models until today erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Art deco style in perfection: Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase

Sensual forms, exclusive abundance: In the early 20th century, the Art Deco style dominated art and architecture. A prime example of the stepped forms, aerodynamic curves and clear symmetry of the style is New York’s Chrysler Building. Girard Perregaux provides a second ideal with the Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase (Ref. 25882-11-121-BB6B), whose rectangular case is most striking for its strong curvature.

Together with its sapphire crystal, the moderately sized retro wristwatch is curved in a way that ensures a perfect fit to the wearer’s wrist. A look at the dial reveals several highlights: In addition to the ornate typography of the Arabic numerals, we are particularly touched by the moon phase, which could not be more in keeping with the vintage romanticism of the luxury watch. Dauphine hands, small seconds and railroad minute track complete the noble look. The curved Art Deco classic is powered by the in-house automatic movement GP03300, the decoration of which is revealed through a glass back and, like all the details of the watch, testifies to absolute top class.

Elegant journey back in time to the 30s: MIDO Multifort Powerwind Limited Edition

In 1934, in the midst of the Art Deco heyday, MIDO launched its legendary Multifort collection, which remained the company’s absolute best-seller until 1950, combining four features that were revolutionary at the time: Water resistance, shock resistance, magnetic protection and an automatic winding mechanism. Today, the wristwatch is pure retro and returns to the spotlight with the MIDO Multifort Powerwind Limited Edition (Ref. M040.407.16.060.00): limited to 1,954 pieces, the beauty seduces its beholder with the midnight blue sunburst of its domed dial and displays maximum attention to detail despite its affordable price range. Applied indices and diamond-cut hands in rose gold color bring life to the retro wristwatch, whose automatic ETA 2836-2 movement has a coveted COSC certificate. At the same time, the 40-millimeter case impresses with a stylish mix of polished and brushed stainless steel. The only point of criticism: the white Day-Date complication, which is useful, but brings a break in the symmetry and midnight blue elegance of the wristwatch.

Homage to a diving icon: Oris Divers Sixty-Five

Vintage or retro? With the Oris Divers Sixty-Five, the independent manufacturer from Hölstein addresses both target groups and presents a spectacular variety of models. The 100-meter water-resistant timepiece is based on a legendary diver’s watch from 1965, with which Oris successfully entered the maritime segment. One of our clear favorites is the bicolor version in stainless steel and bronze (Ref. 01 733 7707 4355-07 8 20 17): It’s not just the rarity of the copper-tin alloy and its strong patina that set the watch apart from the crowd, but also the two-tone aesthetic, which brings a sympathetic touch of the eighties to the wrist. Paired with the blue of the dial and its clear curvature, the result is an expressive overall image with an impressive character. Technically, the retro wristwatch has no weaknesses: While the Sellita-based 733 automatic movement guarantees reliable propulsion, the relatively compact diameter of 40 millimeters is reminiscent of the slim dimensions that characterized distinguished men’s watches in the mid-20th century.

Purist elegance of the sixties: Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date

Socially, the sixties were a time of upheaval and went down in history as an upbeat, free-thinking decade. Horology was distinguished by timeless classics with beautiful lines during the heyday of the Beatles and miniskirts, as demonstrated by the Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date (Ref. 2-39-47-06-02-04). The aesthetic journey through time begins on the domed dial, where slightly curved hands and striking numerals, completely unconventional in the Sixties style, capture our gaze. The eye is captured by the panoramic date: inspired by the famous clock in Dresden’s Semper Opera House, it is a trademark of the luxury manufacturer and blends seamlessly into the overall picture. We also can’t get enough of the stainless steel case of the retro wristwatch and its seductive simplicity. An automatic manufacture movement with swan-neck fine adjustment and the finest finish provides propulsion. It doesn’t have to stay with the dark blue shown here: The Sixties dial is known for exotic colors like fiery orange (Ref. 2-39-47-09-02-04), which definitely deserve a closer look.

Return of the legendary cocktail watch: Hamilton American Classic Lady Hamilton Vintage Quartz

First manufactured by Tiffany & Co. at the beginning of the 20th century, the cocktail watch celebrated a glamorous breakthrough in high society and provided the lady of class with exactly what she wanted: an ornate, luxurious arm decoration that at first glance looks like a bracelet and incidentally has a small dial for reading the time from time to time. Noble ladies did not obviously look at her wrist back then.

Today, the glamorous cocktail watch celebrates its comeback with the Hamilton American Classic Lady Hamilton Vintage Quartz (Ref. H31271113). Eye-catcher number one is the chain bracelet, on which there is a tiny stainless steel case measuring 15×19 millimeters with royal decoration. The overall look of the wristwatch is retro and antique at the same time, making the Lady Hamilton a special jewel in today’s watch world. Women who want to elegantly stand out from the crowd in 2023 are in the right place. By the way, if you want a more exotic case at the next cocktail party, gold-plated, black and even purple alternatives are available.

Classic lines, state-of-the-art technology: Grand Seiko Heritage

Contrasting with the playful Lady Hamilton, the Grand Seiko Retro watches of the Heritage collection are well-balanced and simple in design, transporting the 60s style of the Japanese high-end brand into the 21st century and combining it with state-of-the-art technology. Known for its fabulous Zaratsu polish and unrivaled attention to detail, the Grand Seiko Heritage can be ordered with three drives: Quartz for starters, Automatic for traditionalists and the famous Spring Drive System for those who want to experience Grand Seiko Retro watches at their most mechanically impressive. Our insider tip in the large collection: the reference SBGA439. Against the night sky with a dark blue background, the diamond-cut hands and hour-markers come into their own perfectly. The 40-millimeter luxury wristwatch, which is water-resistant to 100 meters, is powered by the automatic caliber 9R65.

Der Beitrag 2023 is the wristwatch retro erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Neon, denim, sneakers: the 80s shaped fashion and lifestyle in unforgettable ways. Today, many of the trends of that bold decade are back – especially in the world of watches. From bicolor to quartz, we show you the most popular watches of the ’80s, introduce their modern descendants, and explain which tastes the reborn retro watches are right for.

Which trends shaped watches of the 80s?

Bright colors, freaky designs and smooth yellow gold: decadence played a central role in the watch designs of the 80s. The decade was an era of urbanization, which gave many young people that urban prosperity that was to be expressed on the wrist. Probably the most defining manifestation of this exclusivity were bicolor designs, watches that combined two metals (typically gold and stainless steel). They are considered the ultimate style of the 80s and – against all expectations – are now back in fashion. A second, extremely drawing trend of the decade is large, in many cases chunky cases designed for maximum robustness, with a self-assured presence as a desired side effect.

Technically, the watches of the 80s display an exciting mix of quartz and automatic. Contrary to the 70s, when the quartz crisis reached its peak and mechanical timepieces were declared dead, the 80s brought us a slow return to traditional mechanics. Although the electric movement was still widely used due to its advantages – high precision at a low price – people gradually recognized the cultural value of mechanical watches. Suddenly, it was cool again to watch a balance ticking in the knowledge that, with good care, the mechanical companion would last for decades.

Rolex, Tudor, Omega: Bicolors are back

One of the most popular watches of the 1980s was undoubtedly the Rolex Datejust Two Tone, which was worn by pop stars and Wall Street bankers alike and is now fashionable again not despite, but precisely because of its absolute 1980s look. The difference: 40 years later, people prefer to combine the stainless steel with red gold instead of yellow gold. Otherwise, today’s Rolex Datejust Two Tone is in no way inferior to its predecessors: In addition to the characteristic fluted bezel and the large date magnifier, the sporty, elegant basic design has hardly changed over the decades. Those who order the modern Datejust and prefer a pure ’80s look should choose the yellow gold Ref. 126233 on the Jubilee strap, close their eyes, and imagine racing through Miami in a Ferrari Testarossa.

Sister brand Tudor is also currently extremely successful in reviving two-tone vintage watches, as evidenced by the Tudor Black Bay Heritage S&G (Ref. M79733N-0008). Without screaming for attention, the 41-millimeter Diver makes a strong statement for the ’80s lifestyle and offers an insane amount of watch for the money. In addition to (a bit of) 18-karat yellow gold, it brings to the wrist a chronometer-certified MT5612 manufacture movement with a 70-hour power reserve, complemented by 200-meter water resistance and historic trademarks like the Snowflake hour hand.

If you want to take the two-tone style more subtly than Rolex and the Black Bay Heritage S&G, we recommend the Omega Seamaster 300 Sedna Gold Bicolor (Ref. 210.22.42.20.01.002). In an elegant way, the iconic diver’s watch manages to combine its special reddish gold with black ceramic and a chic stainless steel case. Technical excellence with Co-Axial manufacture movement, 300 meters water resistance and a visible case back complete the Diver.

Chunky and robust: Retro watches in XXL design

For our next 80s trend, the prime example is not the luxurious Omega Seamaster 300 Sedna Gold Bicolor, but a Seiko Diver with legendary status: the Turtle. Although the deliberately chunky diver’s watch, whose case shape is reminiscent of a turtle shell, appeared as early as the ’60s, nowadays we associate its aesthetics more with the ’80s. Not understatement, but the clear display of robust, self-confident designs characterized the decade. Today, we find the latter especially in the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive collection: models like the popular Spring Drive with GMT function (Ref. SBGA229) combine world-renowned craftsmanship with chic design, but at over 44 millimeters in diameter, they speak a clear language: “I’m the boss here.” This is what watches of the 80s look like at their best.

What this Grand Seiko Diver and the other members of the Grand Seiko Sport collection Spring Drive manage to do, the Swiss have also mastered with flying colors. An excellent example of 80s design is the current Fortis Classic Cosmonauts Steel A.M. (Ref. F2140000): Since its appearance almost 40 years ago, the 42-millimeter model has spoken a crystal-clear language from a functional perspective. No attempts at aesthetic perfection, but rather large numerals, an easily readable tachymeter scale and ample luminous material characterize the no-nonsense look of the bolide. The Fortis Classic Cosmonauts Steel A.M. sees itself as a tool and unmistakably expresses this character with 80s self-confidence.

Electronic timekeeping: from Casio to the smartwatch

Some of the most popular watches of the 80s are electric and could not represent the decade more aptly than the Casio Collection Unisex Digital Wristwatch. Digital digits on the wrist appeared in the 70s, but found their widest distribution in the following decade and shaped the everyday life of an entire generation – from students to managers. To this day, the original vintage watches are available at reasonable prices; those who want additional functions and more modern designs will find contemporary alternatives in the various versions of the Casio Collection Unisex Digital Wristwatch. Our tip: If you want to combine two trademarks of watches from the 80s at once, you should order the digital Casio with a gold-plated case.

Today’s smartwatches like the Tag Heuer Connected also have their origins in the 1980s. Of course, there were no Internet-enabled computers on the wrist back then, but many manufacturers laid the foundation for their electronic watch development during the 1980s. Tag Heuer, for example, launched its Formula 1 collection in 1986 and hit the zeitgeist with bright colors, simple quartz movements, and lightweight plastic cases. The beefy design was no facade: the manufacturer gave a whopping 200 meters of water resistance to its entry-level model, which quickly rose to become one of the most popular watches of the 1980s. If you just want to experience the aesthetics of the ’80s on your wrist, but enjoy the technical advantages of the 21st century, the current Tag Heuer Connected is a smart choice: The smartwatch allows you to change the dial design on a whim.

Der Beitrag The most popular watches of the 80s and their descendants erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.