Watches as an Asset Class: A Market in Transformation

The secondary market for luxury watches has become one of the most transparent and sophisticated collector markets worldwide. Auction houses, specialist dealers, and digital platforms have introduced unprecedented access to price histories and global availability.

Models like the Rolex Daytona, Patek Philippe Nautilus, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak continue to show strong long-term performance, yet the market as a whole is cyclical. After the record highs around 2021/22, prices normalized, which experts see as healthy rather than alarming.

Key Insight:
Mechanical watches perform best as long-term assets, not short-term speculation.

What Drives Long-Term Value?

Certain attributes consistently support value retention and appreciation:

Iconic status

Design icons with decades of history typically remain in high demand.

Controlled scarcity

Low production + high demand often equals strong value performance.

Strong brand identity

Independent, consistent brands with a clear DNA perform best over time.

Condition & originality

Especially in vintage:
Original parts + box & papers = value multiplier

Myths and Misconceptions – What Investors Should Know

Myth 1: “Every Rolex goes up in value.”

Not true. Many retain value well, but appreciation varies widely by model and reference.

Myth 2: “Watches are a fast investment.”

Returns improve significantly with time and patience.

Myth 3: “The market is risk-free.”

Like all collectible asset markets, watches are cyclical.

Risks and Trends

Risks:

• Market volatility

• Unrealistic expectations after previous highs

• Counterfeits and “Frankenwatches”

• Illiquidity of niche models

Trends:

• Increasing importance of transparent price data

• A professionalized vintage market

• Rising interest in craftsmanship over hype

• Growing demand for neo-vintage (1990–2010)

A Modern Blend of Lifestyle and Finance

Luxury watches remain compelling: emotionally, aesthetically, and financially. Yet success in this asset class requires knowledge, patience, and a passion for horology. For those who combine these qualities, the mechanical watch offers not just timeless beauty, but potentially timeless value.

Der Beitrag From Wrist to Investment: The New Economics of Luxury Watches erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

A Cultural Icon: More Than Just a Timekeeper

In a world where smartphones display the time with atomic precision, the mechanical watch stands as a symbol of permanence.
It’s no longer a utility, but an object of heritage, identity, and emotional connection.

Its magic lies in its mechanics: gears, springs, and levers: a dance of precision that transcends utility. In an era of automation and AI, the mechanical watch represents the art of slowing down.

The Rolex Submariner or the Tudor Black Bay 58 are more than design icons; they embody the emotion of precision, reliability, character, and an awareness of time itself.

Innovation Within Tradition

Even the most established maisons aren’t standing still. Innovation in watchmaking today often hides beneath a classic dial: silicon balance springs, titanium cases, ceramic bezels, and advanced calibers.

• Tudor Pelagos FXD: A professional diver’s tool in lightweight titanium – built for modern explorers.

• Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph: A pilot’s chronograph blending vintage aesthetics with high-precision mechanics.

• Hublot Big Bang Integral Grey Ceramic: modern materials, classic style.

This fusion of high-tech materials and traditional craftsmanship defines the future of mechanical watchmaking: innovation in service of legacy.

Sustainability as the New Technology

In 2025, progress means responsibility. The luxury watch industry increasingly embraces sustainability; from ethically sourced materials to carbon-neutral production.

• Oris: A pioneer in eco-initiatives, with ocean conservation projects and the Aquis Upcycle collection.

• Chopard Alpine Eagle: Crafted in Fairmined gold — a statement of transparency and ethics.

Sustainability has become the new face of technical excellence. Those who master it are not just watchmakers, but visionaries.

The Role of the Smartwatch – Rival or Catalyst?

Smartwatches didn’t destroy the mechanical industry, they revitalized it.
Where digital devices deliver efficiency and connectivity, mechanical watches deliver emotion and timelessness.

Many collectors now wear both: technology on one wrist, craftsmanship on the other.

TAG Heuer Connected seamlessly merges digital innovation with the design language of haute horlogerie; proof that the two worlds can coexist.

The truth is simple: smartwatches satisfy the mind, mechanical watches the soul.

The Future: Emotion Meets Precision

The future of the mechanical watch is not about more functions; it’s about more meaning.
Today’s collectors value stories as much as specifications: heritage, sustainability, individuality.

Future generations won’t ask how accurate a watch is, but what it stands for.
Between tradition and technology, a new kind of beauty is emerging: timeless inside, modern in spirit.

The Tudor Ranger or Longines Flagship Heritage embody this balance: traditional in form, forward-thinking in essence.

Eternity in Motion

The mechanical watch is not a relic; it’s a cultural counterpoint to digital speed.
By embracing innovation without losing its soul, it remains profoundly relevant: a masterpiece of time in a world that moves ever faster.

Der Beitrag Between Tradition and Technology: The Future of Mechanical Watches in the Digital Age erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

For a long time, the world of luxury watches was defined by craftsmanship, exclusivity, and prestige. But by 2025, the definition of true excellence has evolved. Today’s discerning customers expect more than outstanding engineering and timeless design — they demand a clear commitment to environmental awareness and social responsibility. Sustainability is no longer just a buzzword; it has become an essential part of modern luxury. But how exactly are the big names in the watch industry responding to these new expectations?

Sustainable Materials: Innovation at the Wrist

One of the first significant steps lies in the choice of materials. More and more watchmakers are turning to recycled or responsibly sourced raw materials. Stainless steel and titanium obtained through recycling processes are being used increasingly, while traditional leather straps are being replaced with vegan alternatives made from recycled PET bottles, corn leather, or innovative plant-based fabrics. A shift is also happening with gemstones: lab-grown diamonds, produced with fewer resources, are becoming a sustainable alternative to traditionally mined stones.

This development showcases not only technological expertise but also a new awareness: a luxury watch today is not only built to last but also intended to make a positive contribution to the world.

Production and Processes: Responsibility at Every Stage

Sustainability does not end with materials. Many brands are critically reassessing their entire production chains. A focus on local manufacturing — ideally within Switzerland or Europe — helps reduce transport distances and thus lower carbon emissions. At the same time, more workshops are powered by renewable energy sources, with solar-powered facilities and CO₂-neutral manufacturing becoming the new standard.

A particularly exciting innovation is the move toward a circular economy. Some brands now offer programs where pre-owned watches are taken back, expertly refurbished, and sold again as certified pre-owned models. This creates a new, sustainable luxury cycle that both conserves resources and excites collectors.

Packaging and Shipping: Rethinking Every Detail

The new mindset is also evident in packaging and shipping. Instead of elaborate wooden boxes or plastic-coated cases, brands are increasingly opting for recyclable, biodegradable materials. Packaging is becoming more compact to reduce shipping volume, and deliveries are often made using carbon-neutral shipping methods. Every small step contributes to significantly reducing the industry’s environmental footprint.

Sustainability Also Means Social Responsibility

True sustainability goes beyond environmental issues. The luxury watch sector is increasingly focusing on social responsibility: transparent supply chains ensure that raw materials like gold and diamonds come from fair sources. Many companies are investing in educational programs, supporting projects in mining regions, and ensuring fair working conditions across their supply chains.

Pioneers of a New Era

Brands like Panerai, Oris, and Cartier are leading the way in demonstrating how modern luxury watches can embody sustainable values. Panerai impresses with its Submersible eLAB-ID, a watch made from almost 99% recycled materials. Oris is committed to marine conservation and produces carbon-neutral models, while Cartier champions ethical sourcing through initiatives supporting responsible mining practices.

These pioneers prove that sustainability and luxury are not opposites — they complement each other beautifully, giving every timepiece a deeper meaning.

A New Understanding of Luxury

Today, a luxury watch is more than a status symbol. It is an expression of individuality, style, and values. In a world yearning for genuine responsibility, sustainable luxury is not a trend but a conscious choice — for quality, longevity, and a better future.
The watch industry has recognized this shift and is showing impressively that true timelessness lies not only in design but also in a respectful relationship with our planet.

Der Beitrag Watches and Sustainability: How Luxury Brands Are Embracing Environmental Responsibility erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Groundbreaking invention: Restart on the fly

Chronographs are precision tools for measuring the duration of an event. This stop function primarily enhances wristwatches that have been developed for professional or sporting purposes. The flyback mechanism optimizes handling: the special models have two pushers for stopping a time stage. The one at the 2 o’clock position starts and stops the measuring process. The button at the 4 o’clock position is used to return to the starting position.

Flyback watches allow an alternative use of the second pusher: If you press it during the measuring process without releasing it, the second hand returns to its original position. All you have to do now is take your finger off the button to start the next measurement. The flyback function is also known as the flying zero position or “retour-en-vol”. If you like it trendier, you could use the term “reset” to explain this functional feature to a layperson.

Efficient operation for time measurements

Anyone who sees wristwatches not only as a style statement, but also as an instrument for sports or at work, will recognize the advantage: if you want to restart measuring processes or start the next measurement immediately, three actions are normally necessary. Stopping is followed by zeroing and starting the next counting process.

Mechanical stopwatches, which used to be used for sporting events, are intuitive to operate. It rests in one hand and the fingers hover over the buttons for quick reactions. It becomes more awkward when you have to reach for the opposite arm and press small buttons three times in the correct order. If every second counts, efficient flyback watches are a great help: They combine three steps into one action that you can complete without looking at the timer.

More safety and accuracy thanks to on-the-fly zero setting

The first flyback watch had barely been invented when it accompanied Richard Byrd, who flew over the South Pole for the first time in 1929. Anyone familiar with the conditions of early aviation will understand his enthusiasm. Wristwatches were important navigational instruments. For example, the chronograph was activated at the sight of a prominent landmark in order to safely plan the further course of the flight.

For long distances, it was necessary to stop time periods several times. Even if you performed the three maneuvers for zeroing as quickly as possible, the seconds lost added up. If you didn’t take this into account, you risked navigational errors, which could be fatal at high flying speeds. It was conceivable to miss the target or misjudge the fuel supply. Professional aviation pioneers took these differences into account using complicated calculation methods. They were simplified when the flyback function made its debut. The same applied to scientific and military measurements, which required precision to the second.

The initial spark: patent from Longines

The pioneering work was carried out by the Swiss brand Longines, which presented a flyback watch in 1925 that was praised by pilots. Around ten years later, it patented the function that characterized the legendary L13ZN calibre. It was a milestone in the art of watchmaking with an innovative movement design:

The classic design stipulates that the relevant movement element must be disengaged when the chronograph or the hands are moved to the zero position. If it remained engaged, damage would be inevitable. Longines has succeeded in integrating a mechanism that disengages and engages the zeroing process in an instant. It is the heart of the flyback function, which is one of the most sophisticated complications.

Refining inspiring ideas – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

One brand ensured the comeback of the additional function in 1996 and still cultivates it today – for example with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback. It shows that the complication is also practical for diving when the manufacture masters a challenge: the more operating elements there are, the trickier it is to ward off penetrating environmental influences. The black Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback with 300 m water resistance, ceramic case and canvas strap succeeds in this mission.

Watch history brought to life – Chopard L.U.C. Chrono One Flyback

The flying zero setting is often a tribute to watchmaking tradition. The Chopard L.U.C. Chrono One Flyback is a prime example of this. The premium manufacturer has abandoned its preference for gold to create an authentic homage for this limited edition. The automatic chronograph pays tribute to the titanium alloy that plays a role in aviation. The watch design thus builds a bridge to aviation, for which the flyback function was developed. The khaki-colored dial and light brown leather strap reinforce the vintage charm.

A breath of fresh air for the tried and tested – Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet 42 mm

The luxury brand based in Nyon only made its debut in 1980. By then, the relevance of the flyback function had long since been put into perspective. Ambition and a love of high-contrast design were behind the idea of giving the colorful Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Purple 42 and the Unico Gourmet the watch complication. It proves that unconventional approaches and traditional craftsmanship do not contradict each other. The same applies to the built-in chronograph movement: with its double clutch system and column wheel on the transparent dial side, it stands out from the ordinary.

By no means threatened with extinction – chronographs with flyback function

Aircraft, research or professional sport: there have long been measuring instruments that outperform mechanical flyback wristwatches in terms of accuracy and functionality. Apart from a brief pause during the quartz crisis, the chronograph add-on mechanism has held its own. Those who have a soft spot for it are catered for by ambitious watch manufacturers in a variety of ways, for example:

• Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle (RD#4)
• Breguet Type 20 Chronographe 2057
• Frederique Constante Chronograph Manufacture Flyback watches
• Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Purple 42 Special Edition
• Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet 42-mm
• Longines Spirit Flyback
• Patek Philipp 5935A Worldtimer
• Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot
• Rolex Yacht-Master II
• Tag Heuer Monza Flyback watches
• Zenith Pilot Big Date

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Source image for the article: From File:Heuer Fliegerchrono 1.jpg: Gordito1869derivative work: Superbass – This file was derived from this work: Heuer Fliegerchrono 1.jpg:, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=114514042

Der Beitrag Flyback watches: What does the flyback function of chronographs do? erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Leather strap – proven all-rounder with limitless design variety

The natural material has been used since time immemorial because it is supple, durable, hard-wearing and simply beautiful. The long list of advantages ensures that many men and women prefer a watch strap made of leather. This applies to the purchase of a new timepiece as well as the rejuvenation of older masterpieces. Anyone who believes that the decision has been made will be proven wrong during a purchase consultation in a specialist store.

Bovine, calf, lizard or alligator? Smooth, rough, textured or with a used look? Elegant, natural or flashy color? Flat, with air holes or padded? The secret of the leather strap’s success is its aesthetic and functional diversity. You can find an elegant piece that attractively complements the jewelry watch. Thanks to robust designs and modern finishing techniques, leather straps are also suitable for sports watches.

If you look carefully at the displays in a specialist watch store, you will notice that there are a remarkable number of color nuances and surface designs for stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold or white gold. Accordingly, it can be difficult to find suitable watch straps for a vintage timepiece made of these materials. A leather strap is often much more convincing than a compromise made of metal in order to pick up on the watch design in a style-conscious way or to provide a clever contrast.

Practical and chic: stainless steel links that combine to form a watch strap

In the past, it seemed appropriate to give luxury watches a noble finish – for example with a watch strap made of crocodile leather or gold. Collections such as the Rolex Daytona or Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet therefore seemed almost rebellious when they made their debut. Beyond the sporting terrain, many watch enthusiasts initially considered it unacceptable to wear a watch with a steel case and bracelet. Nowadays, the industrial material characterizes most metal watch straps and is socially acceptable for all occasions. It scores points with its durable, hard-wearing and corrosion-resistant character, provided that a high-quality alloy is used in its manufacture.

Watch designers opt for sturdy stainless steel links when the functional timepiece for diving, racing or flying is somewhat heavier and bulkier. Last but not least, they convey a good feeling in an active lifestyle because the watch is firmly attached to the wrist. However, some men and women find these classic stainless steel straps too coarse. The dislike relates to the aesthetics as well as the wearing comfort.

Fortunately, a processing technique was developed centuries ago in Milan in which finely crafted metal is artfully interwoven. The timelessly elegant quintessence is the Milanese bracelet, which looks good on almost any watch. The functional facets are as convincing as the stylish design: Stainless steel bracelets of this kind are surprisingly light and airy, making them great to wear in summer too.

Textile strap – casual and individual

As early as the mid-1940s, there were watches with textile straps, for example for special military operations. Robust materials with synthetic fibers, which had proven their worth in the manufacture of rucksacks or parachutes, were brought into play. The advantages are obvious and are also welcome for everyday activities: The material is dirt-repellent, copes with moisture and dries quickly. If signs of wear appear, the watch straps can be replaced at low cost.

Ever since its appearance on James Bond’s wrist in the 1960s, one design variant has been both popular and socially acceptable – the Nato textile strap. It is characterized by its one-piece design so that it can be passed under the spring bars. This design not only emphasizes the sporty, casual character of textile straps, but also has practical advantages: If a bar accidentally comes loose during an active lifestyle, the watch still remains connected to the arm and does not fall off.

Individualists can hardly decide which watch strap they want. Textiles open up an impressive range of possibilities when it comes to aesthetic design. Colors, patterns and weave structure can be varied as desired. A textile strap that deviates from typical yarns such as nylon or Perlon looks particularly unconventional. Junghans, for example, surprises with a loden strap in the Form automatic watch collection.

Natural rubber – a surprisingly pragmatic finish for luxury watches

Once upon a time, watch fans would have shaken their heads in horror at the idea of equipping exclusive masterpieces with a rubber or silicone watch strap. Nowadays, this variant has become firmly established and can be found on almost every luxury brand. As with the Nato watch strap, functional considerations prompted us to give the alternative with its sporty, pragmatic aura a chance.

The rubber strap is lightweight, robust and requires no special care. Its fans like the unusual touch that the modern material adds to a luxury watch. This is particularly true when manufacturers exploit the creative potential of natural rubber. The tire look is a successful example of this, which Chopard uses to give the Mille Miglia Classic chronograph a sleek finish. Some men and women prefer the rubber strap in summer because they like the material lightness at higher outside temperatures. However, there are also watch lovers who find the material sweaty in warm weather.

Allergy sufferers often prefer textile and rubber straps, but tend to overlook one detail: the skin-friendly material is of little help if the case has some stainless steel components. It is smarter to consider your personal requirements when buying a new watch. An ingenious alternative are timepieces made entirely of ceramic – for example from Rado.

Which watch strap wins the race?

The decision is not easy given the variety, but it can be inspiring. Basically, it makes sense to focus on straps from the watch brand’s range. They are functionally and aesthetically optimized for the timepiece. If you don’t necessarily want to get creative when changing the strap, you can use the manufacturer’s standard combinations as a guide. For newer collections, just take a look at the brand’s website. When browsing the Internet for vintage watches, you can often find contemporary documents such as brochures, photos or catalogs that provide a useful source of inspiration for a tasteful makeover thanks to the watch strap.

Der Beitrag Textile, Milanese, rubber – which watch strap suits me and my watch erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Watches as an investment? Interesting, if you can stay realistic

If you choose the right timepieces, you can invest in watches without losing value and achieve high increases in value. They are the insider tip when it comes to investments – especially in times of crisis. Immediately afterwards, a list reveals which models from Rolex, Omega, Breitling & Co are guaranteed to be and remain in demand. Such promises carved in stone are as serious as the prophecies of a fortune teller at the fair. This is evidenced by a number of vintage watches that were praised to the skies and bought for adventurous prices, only to be hit by a loss in value soon afterwards.

Anyone who concludes from these findings that it is not worth buying luxury watches is just as out of touch with reality as the exaggerated visions of the future held by self-important financial experts. Rather, it is about taking a rational look at what is meant by investing in watches without losing value. If individual preferences are combined with objective considerations when choosing a model, most masterpieces will meet expectations – regardless of whether they come from Audemars Piguet, Chopard, Junghans or another renowned manufacturer.

Works of art for moments of happiness that are priceless

The Queen of Naples longed for a piece of jewelry that would tell the time beautifully on her wrist. Abraham-Louis Breguet fulfilled her wish in 1810 with the first wristwatch. Since then, more than 200 years have passed in which technical achievements have been made. The smartphone provides constant access to time data based on high-precision atomic clocks. Nevertheless, luxury watches with hand-wound or automatic movements have lost none of their fascination. After all, they are works of art created by hand with remarkable finesse. Such observations indicate that manufacture watches retain their ability to inspire and will never be affected by a complete loss of value.

Anyone who hoards their savings in an interest-free bank account for decades will be disappointed in any case. In the case of timelessly sought-after wristwatches, on the other hand, the chances are good that inflation will have less of an impact on their tangible value in the long term than on the banknotes in your savings stocking. If no buyer is found for it later, this is at least to be expected: The price of new luxury watches has risen significantly due to increased material and labor costs and is an argument against purchasing them. Fortunately, there is a favorite piece in the safe that you can now proudly put on for special occasions. When that time comes, you’ve already bought the watches without losing value and gained a lot, haven’t you?

Dream watch with potential to increase in value

This kind of thinking suggests investing in watches that are bound to increase in value in an idealistic sense. Smart watch fans therefore direct their interest towards manufactories and collections that appeal to their hearts. This ensures that they will enjoy the masterpieces. Only after the groundbreaking decision has been made is it worth considering which models will retain their value. A look at tips from watch experts is inspiring if you don’t overestimate them. After all, any prediction regarding loss or increase in value remains speculative.

Experience shows this: A pioneer is ahead of its time, in low demand and comparatively inexpensive. Later, a change in taste draws interest to the underestimated model, which ideally comes into the limelight due to a spectacular event or a famous wearer. The Cosmograph Daytona sports watch from Rolex and the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet are successful examples of increases in value that watch enthusiasts would hardly have expected decades ago. They also illustrate that the tide can turn when the hype dies down. This is particularly true for investors who suddenly have to sell due to a financial crisis and are unable to give investment watches the peace of mind they need for attractive performance.

Bold speculation or proven investment – a question of type and budget

Color, material, diameter – the yellow Spirit of Big Bang from Hublot with rubber strap and 45 mm case is a rebel on the luxury watch scene. Anyone who puts one of these in their safe will need courage. According to the recommended retail price, the eccentric automatic watch breaks the 100,000 euro barrier. Logically, the number of potential buyers who are able and willing to invest the impressive price plus inflation rate when reselling the watch is limited. The risk of a loss in value seems high. The opposite is conceivable: A financially strong watch fan dreams of a Hublot with a strictly limited edition. He is prepared to spend three times the original retail price.

Those who cannot engage in such speculation tend to invest in tried and tested watches. The Omega Speedmaster has secured a permanent place in horological history because it was the first wristwatch on the moon. Humans will not stop exploring the universe. With every space mission that attracts media attention, it is inevitable that watch enthusiasts will remember the Moonwatch and want to treat themselves to a copy. This is why the Omega icon is considered to have a stable value and can be purchased in the classic version for around 5,000 euros or as an unusual edition for 50,000 euros, depending on your personal budget. Which model retains, loses or increases its value remains to be seen. In terms of adjusted profit, the classic model could win the race just as easily as the special edition.

Small investment, big impact – stylistically, ideally or financially

Max Bill was a creative all-rounder who was inspired by the Bauhaus era. The Weimar art school – founded by Walter Gropius – produced a design style that inspired at its debut, continues to inspire today and will probably never seem out of fashion. The award-winning Swiss designer’s most important works include dials that characterize a Junghans collection of the same name. The so-called architect’s watches are affordable compared to the timepieces of popular luxury brands such as Rolex, Chopard, Breguet or Breitling.

The artist’s birthday, the founding year of the Bauhaus school or key dates in watch history: many occasions in the coming decades can fuel the dream of owning an automatic watch in Bauhaus design. These occasions can be used to sell the watch without losing value. However, the chances are just as great that you will not want to part with the Black Forest design classic, which is and remains a style-conscious statement on the wrist regardless of the age. Can we give a guarantee for watches without loss of value? No, of course not. But you do get other guarantees with every watch at Uhrinstinkt. Such as authenticity and functionality.

Der Beitrag Which model? – The best chances of buying watches without depreciation erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Ideal for most Rolex calibers – 650 rotations daily

Automatic movements, with their special functional elements, store the energy generated by arm movements when worn. This eliminates the need to wind the watch by hand or integrate a battery. Collectors’ pieces rest in their caskets. Precious masterpieces are only conjured up on special occasions. To keep them going anyway, watch winders come into play. They simulate the absence of body movement so that the movement does not have to be constantly reset. This is because the procedure for numerous watch functions is not only time-consuming, but can also be complicated. This is true, for example, of masterpieces with sophisticated complications such as the perpetual calendar.

Watch winders and the turns per day

Every caliber wants a minimum number of turns per day to maintain accuracy and avoid stalling. The property is captured by the English technical term “turns per day”, which is hidden behind the abbreviation TPD. When wearing a watch, it is normal that the movements of the arm sometimes generate more energy than would be necessary for automatic winding. Accordingly, it is basically harmless if a watch winder confronts the movement with too many rotations.

However, it is common to provide only a moderate power reserve during the storage phase, even if the caliber allows more. In this way, luxury watch enthusiasts spare the watch winder as well as the movement and curb the power consumption of the accessories. Although 650 TPD has proven optimal for almost all Rolex calibers, there are exceptions. Some Skydweller watches, for example, want 800 TPD.

Testing watch winders

Each watch, which was made by hand, is unique. This is especially true for aged collectors’ pieces. That’s why you should start a test with your own Rolex in the watch winder: If the movement runs smoothly, it stays at the recommended minimum TPD. If noticeable inaccuracies creep in, give the automatic movement a little more movement.

Manufacturer recommendation for most calibers from Rolex – alternating rotation mode

Automatic movements wind in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. Another variant is the bilateral winding, which most Rolex families profess. To ensure that the accessories harmonize with different movements, you can choose between right-hand, left-hand and alternating rotations on almost all watch winders.

The Swiss watchmaker mostly recommends the latter mode with regular changes of direction for its masterpieces. However, older calibers from the global brand can be found that only capture the required energy during clockwise movements. The Daytona Cosmograph 4130 is a successful example of this, which is moved in the so-called CW rotation mode (right) with 800 to 950 TPD.

The watch winders of renowned brands are always designed to gently keep the timepieces going. Sometimes, the ambition to imitate the influences of wearing a watch in a particularly authentic way is added. In our test, for example, the Elma Motion series imitates a sleep phase that can be regulated individually.

This also seemed sensible to us in the test: The Sens from Designhütte is one of those movers that complete the rotation workload in several cycles during the day.

In the test: move and store watches in the ensemble

With the exquisite collection often masterpieces of other manufactures join the Rolex watch in the watch winder. The test on your own and the general experience can suggest different movement programs for the inserted lovers’ pieces. Well thought-out accessories for watch ensembles respond to this, for example the Modalo series Safe Systems or Heisse & Söhne collection Watch Master as well as the modular product lines Boxy by Beco or One by Chronovision. With their design concept, they allow settings to be made separately for each watch. In this way, it is also possible to bundle specimens that desire different rotation directions and TPD programs in one movement solution.

Leisure time is accompanied by the iconic heirloom Datejust, which is as reminiscent of the adventurous grandfather as it is of Reinhold Messner, who conquered Mount Everest with the Rolex. In everyday business, the Sky-Dweller proves itself with its second time zone and comfortable power reserve, which continues to run during the rest period at the weekend. More for investment and exceptional moments are the preciousnesses – the “Pepsi” Meteorite Chronometer and the Day-Date with President band in Everose gold. Combined storage solutions, for example from the Basel product line by Designhütte or Gentlemen by Paul Design, prove their worth in the collection outlined. They stage the watchmaker highlights in the showcase, which are moved regularly to match the programming. An additional compartment is ideal for storing watches that are used more frequently.

Customized accessories for the moving Rolex collection

Most manufacturers treat their watch accessories to an elegant appearance and transparent fronts to present the masterpieces appropriately. Partly, LED lighting underlines the presentation – for example, the Paul Design Gentlemen product series proves its charm in our test. If the accessory unites several movers, quality-loving brands pay attention to subtleties: After completion of the rotation program or in the sleep phase, all timepieces are automatically aligned in a 12 o’clock position. Thus, one is pleased with a harmonious overall picture.

High-quality watch winders in the test always offer several setting options for the Rolex collection, so that you can optimize the daily rotation program to suit the automatic watch. The simpler models are operated with classic controls, while complex devices feature modern LCD panels. In the meantime, advanced control solutions via Bluetooth and app have been added, which worked well in the test – for example, in the Chronovision One collection.

Each wristwatch of the luxury brand has a considerable value. Understandable is the desire to slow down quick access, which the lockable Heisse & Söhne Collector fulfills. Caskets for safes should be as space-saving and self-sufficient as possible. The Modalo Safe Systems and Swiss Kubik watch winders in our test are not only strikingly compact in design, but also allow battery operation.

Watch winder design – as presentable as timepieces

In general, many watch winders are suitable for the Rolex. However, testing in everyday collecting shows to what extent the handling suits personal preferences. It may be wise to first try out a manufacturer’s 1-watch winder. If it is convincing, there is nothing to be said against purchasing an impressive watch winder for the care of numerous masterpieces.

The aluminum cubes from Swiss Kubik look stylish, the Beco Boxy modules sporty-puristic and the Elma wooden caskets sophisticated-opulent: Whether you match the look to your home decor or the design to your watch collection is up to you. The aesthetic range is impressive in the test, so that the Watch Winder fits perfectly to the aesthetic and functional desires.

Der Beitrag Watch winders for Rolex watches tested erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Vision versus reality in mechanical masterpieces

The ideal situation would be for a wristwatch to always display the exact time standard, which in Germany is specified by the Physikalisch-Technische Bundesanstalt with its atomic clocks. So far, no manufactory has achieved the ideal goal. A mechanical movement consists of an impressively large number of components that are meticulously coordinated with one another.

Despite the love of perfection, small irregularities cannot be avoided. This is especially true in the long term, because the best material quality does not rule out wear and tear or soiling. In addition, there are external influences that provoke watch defects. Although ambitious traditional brands invest a great deal of passion and know-how in optimizing rate deviation, the fact remains that anyone who loves mechanical timepieces must have a little tolerance.

Guide values – excellent, good and acceptable rate deviation per day

Beginners are usually spontaneously thrilled when the first self-winding mechanical luxury watch sits enthroned on their wrist. It’s like a miracle that the hands turn their rounds flawlessly without an external power supply, while you proudly gaze at the magnificent watch design. In times of radio-controlled watches and smartwatches, however, one detail is unusual: the time display is almost never exact. This is followed by the thought:

Is the rate deviation of my automatic watch normal?

If the daily irregularities are between -4 and +6 seconds daily, the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres pulls out its certificate. The name of the renowned institute reveals that the result is excellent. This is because portable timepieces may only be marketed as chronometers if they are exceptionally precise.

Ambitious watch manufacturers voluntarily raise the quality bar for their masterful collections. Omega, for example, opts for METAS certification, which defines 0 to +5 seconds as an acceptable rate deviation per day. One can be absolutely satisfied if the average values for the rate deviation are +/- 10 seconds. Since 86,400 seconds pass per day, the display is 99.9 percent correct. In general, there is no cause for concern for the time being, as long as a mechanical movement does not run more than half a minute too fast or slow every day.

Rate deviations – mostly normal, sometimes alarming

By chance, you meet a soulmate who has treated himself to the same masterpiece. While chatting, however, a difference is noticed: The interlocutor raves that he doesn’t notice any rate deviation. Their own specimen, on the other hand, exhausts the stated precision spectrum. Worries are unfounded at this moment. The chance acquaintance is a lucky man, and the accuracy of his own model is still impressive. It is typical for craftsmanship that minimal differences arise in the manufacture even when all manufacturing steps are meticulously executed.

It is just as normal for a mechanical movement to run somewhat unevenly on debut. These “start-up difficulties” can be caused, for example, by the fact that the lubricant has not yet caressed all the components inside. If the problem doesn’t go away, the movement may need to be readjusted. These are simple standard adjustments, which should definitely be done by the manufacturer or authorized watchmakers. After all, the opening of exclusive automatic watches by unauthorized persons can lead to the loss of warranty.

Inaccuracies within the certified tolerance spectrum are okay. The same applies if the rate deviation of your everyday companion increases somewhat over the years. One should become attentive if mechanical wristwatches suddenly and clearly deviate from the usual accuracy. Today exact, tomorrow too slow, the day after tomorrow hasty: Enormous fluctuations should also be kept in mind. If the rate stability does not return, a check-up with an expert is recommended.

Want more accuracy? A little love helps!

Watch manufacturers consider all factors of rate accuracy in order to counteract deviations as best as possible. However, as soon as a masterpiece leaves the house, the owner’s cooperation is required. The way the watch is worn and stored influences the rate deviation just as much as the general condition of the watch. The self-winding mechanism ensures that energy is always replenished when the watch is worn. Nevertheless, some experts advise a complete manual winding at regular intervals. If a timepiece is left lying around for a longer period of time, it comes to a standstill, which is not to the liking of the automatic movement. For valuable collector’s items, specialist stores such as Uhrinstinkt therefore offer watch winders.

Automatic watches often run faster in high temperatures and slower in cold. Watch collections should therefore be treated to a constant room climate. A favorite piece should only be exposed to extreme temperatures if it has been explicitly designed for this purpose. The same applies to pronounced vibrations, shocks or moisture.

Realistic Detox Treatments and On-Time Revisions

Magnetic fields are among the significant factors in accuracy. Nowadays, however, they are omnipresent and emanate, for example, from notebooks, smartphones, induction stoves or pocket fasteners. If you notice a deviation, it may be time to demagnetize your watch – in a specialist store or with your own device. The problem is significantly reduced with modern luxury watches that are designed to be anti-magnetic. This feature is indispensable when magnetic influences characterize personal occupation or leisure activities.

The best building components wear out. Oils can gum up. Fine dust manages to creep through even the tightest case. In short, anyone who wants to enjoy a functioning automatic watch in the long term should adhere to the manufacturer’s recommended inspection intervals.

Quartz watch vs. automatic watch – why not both?

There are many professional or private reasons for attaching great importance to low rate deviation. It’s just as understandable if you don’t want to deal with influencing factors and watch care all the time. Who feels addressed, may flirt for the everyday life with a quartz watch. With good models, the annual deviation amounts to 60 seconds, while the battery lasts up to three years.

Frédérique Constant’s Classics Quartz collection suits business suits as well as casual wear. With its clear time display, date window and cosmopolitan GMT function, it fulfills all common needs at the same time. The icing on the cake: The brand doesn’t expect a big investment for it, leaving more budget for the mechanical collector’s item.

Will it experience adventures rather than elegant moments? Then this tip is valuable: COSC certification certifies excellent rate deviation under normal conditions. Extreme weather, movements, shocks or magnetic fields: Experienced manufacturers take into account in their own tests that expedition watches or sports chronographs, for example, are exposed to greater stress.

In this way, they ensure that, despite special influences, the accuracy is convincing and the functionality is preserved. That’s why it’s worth focusing on collections that have been designed for the intended use and meet all personal quality requirements.

Der Beitrag What rate deviation is normal for automatic watches? erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Wrist watches with alarm function: short history of wrist alarm clocks

The wrist alarm clock, also known as a wristwatch with alarm function, has a long history dating back to the 19th century. However, at that time it was still mainly pocket watches that were not worn on the wrist. The first development towards the wristwatch with alarm function came later.

Eterna caliber 68 and the Zenith Alarm

The first wristwatch with an alarm function is considered to be the Eterna Caliber 68, presented in 1914, which was a derivative of pocket watch calibers of the time with an alarm complication. Shortly after, Zenith, a renowned Swiss watch brand, presented the Zenith alarm wristwatch in 1920. This model already offered an alarm complication lasting up to 45 seconds. This model also used a mechanical movement based on a pocket watch caliber.

The watches remained niche products for a long time and did not catch on. One reason was the fact that many people stuck to pocket watches and the time was not yet ripe for such innovative wristwatches.

Vulcain Cricket and its successors

Over the years, further advances were made in the development of wristwatch alarm clocks. The Vulcain Cricket model, introduced in 1947, attracted more attention than previous developments. The Cricket was the first wrist alarm clock to produce an alarm sound similar to the chirping of a cricket (hence the name Cricket). This distinctive alarm function brought the model great attention and popularity. The Vulcain Cricket was worn by celebrities and politicians, including US presidents. The iconic model helped establish the wristwatch with alarm complication as an object of style and prestige.

During the 20th century, several iconic alarm clock models were developed that are still known today. One example is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox, which was introduced in 1950. The Memovox Deep Sea variant combined alarm function with high pressure density and was very popular among divers.

The Seiko Bell-Matic was a groundbreaking wristwatch with an alarm function that was launched in 1966. It was one of the first affordable wristwatches with an automatic alarm mechanism. With the comparatively low prices, this model series contributed to the popularization of wrist alarm clocks.

Quartz and Smart

With the advent of quartz watches in the 1970s, wristwatches with alarm complications became even more accurate and reliable. The emerging digital displays allowed users to accurately set the alarm time and use various alarm functions.

Today, there is a wide variety of wristwatch alarm clocks on the market. From classic mechanical models to high-tech smartwatches with multiple functions such as sleep monitoring and personalized alarm tones, there is something for everyone.

Quartz wrist watches with alarm function: battery operated precision

In contrast to its mechanical counterpart, integrating an alarm clock function into a quartz watch is much less technically complex. In addition to the cost-effective implementation, quartz variants convince with high precision.

The Tag Heuer Formula 1 Quartz Alarm is a high-quality wristwatch with alarm function from the renowned Formula 1 collection from the house of Tag Heuer. It features a precise quartz movement and a sporty design inspired by the world of motorsports. The watch is equipped with an alarm function that allows the wearer to be reliably woken up. With its robust stainless steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and waterproof design, the Tag Heuer Formula 1 Quartz Alarm is suitable for both everyday wear and sporting activities.

Solar powered wrist alarm clock

The precision of a quartz wrist alarm is also found in solar-powered variants. The Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar is an innovative watch with alarm function that combines state-of-the-art technology with stylish design. It is part of the T-Touch model series, with which Tissot presented one of the first touch watches back in 1999, long before smartwatches in the narrower sense existed.

The T-Touch Expert Solar has a movement that is charged by sunlight or artificial light sources to ensure a long-lasting and environmentally friendly power supply. In addition to the alarm function, the T-Touch Expert Solar offers a variety of other useful functions, such as an altimeter, barometer, compass, thermometer and chronograph (lap and split stopwatch). The high-quality titanium case and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal make the watch robust and durable. With its technological advancement and versatile range of functions, the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar is an interesting wristwatch especially for adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts.

Smartwatches in elegant guise: more than just alarm clock function

Smartwatch technology does not have to be tied to the typical, usually somewhat clunky design, but can also be implemented in stylish designs.

The Frederique Constant Horological Smartwatch Gents Vitality is an elegant men’s wristwatch with alarm complication and a number of other functions. The innovative development combines modern smartwatch technology with the classic design of a dress watch. The watch has a high-precision quartz movement and is equipped with a variety of smart functions, including an alarm function.

Via a smartphone connection, the wearer can set the wristwatch alarm individually and be reliably woken up. In addition, the smartwatch offers functions such as activity and sleep tracking, heart rate measurement and notifications of calls and messages. The elegant stainless steel case and classic dial give the Frederique Constant Horological Smartwatch Gents Vitality a timeless and appealing look. Smart functions are digitally applied to the otherwise classic and uncluttered dial. The Frederique Constant Horological Smartwatch Ladies Vitality is in no way inferior to the men’s model.

Haute Horlogerie wristwatch: the highest mechanical craftsmanship

Even in the present day, watch lovers can still find classic mechanical wristwatch alarm clocks equipped with a real complication. This craftsmanship has remained as an exquisite niche product and is mainly found in the luxury segment.

The Blancpain Villeret Réveil GMT is an exquisite wristwatch with Weck complication from the prestigious Villeret collection of the traditional watch manufacturer Blancpain. This mechanical watch is a masterpiece of watchmaking art and features a complex movement (caliber 1240H) with a number of functions, including a Weck complication.

The Blancpain Villeret Réveil GMT wristwatch alarm can be precisely set to gently wake the wearer at a specific time. The caliber 1240H is also equipped with a second time zone (GMT), which allows the wearer to keep track of the time in another region or time zone. A GMT alarm is also given with the Blancpain Villeret Réveil GMT. The case made of precious materials and the elegant dial with traditional hands and indices give the Blancpain Villeret Réveil GMT the unmistakable elegance and exclusivity that Blancpain stands for.

Der Beitrag Wrist alarm clock: luxury watches with alarm clock complication erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

The Powermatic 80 movement is a development of the Tissot watch brand in collaboration with ETA movements. The caliber is based on the ETA 2824-2, which has proven itself for decades, but has been modified to increase the power reserve to 80 hours. This is achieved through various optimizations, including an extended barrel and a modified escape wheel. Various watch manufacturers use the Powermatic 80 movement under different trade names, for example Caliber H-10 (at Hamilton) or Caliber 80 (at Mido).

Technology and operation: a modified classic

The characteristic feature of the Powermatic 80 is the enormous power reserve, which gives the caliber its name. The power reserve refers to the time that a mechanical watch can run with the mainspring fully wound before it has to be wound again. In conventional automatic watches, the reserve is usually around 38 to 48 hours. The Powermatic 80 movement, on the other hand, offers a power reserve of no less than 80 hours.

Besides the actual ETA 2824-2 movement, related movements like the 2836-2 in Powermatic-80 version are also manufactured. This differs from the 2824-2 by the additional day display (besides the pure date display).

The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 hertz) and features 25 jewels for low-friction operation. This reduced frequency in place of the 28,800 vibrations per hour usually found in this ETA movement is an important aspect in the realization of the higher reserve.

The movement properties of the Powermatic 80 movement are made possible by various technical modifications. These include, in particular, the use of an extended mainspring barrel and the modification of the escape wheel. The extended barrel makes it possible to accommodate a longer mainspring that can store more energy. The modification of the escape wheel reduces the movement’s energy consumption, which contributes to the longer running time.

Visually, the lower frequency is noticeable in the movement of the second hand. Since the hand of this movement only performs six steps per second, it jerks a bit more than the more smoothly running hand of a regular 2824 caliber. The higher frequency of the latter allows the hand to cover eight steps per second.

Powermatic 80 and the accuracy: basics

Increasing the power reserve usually does not directly affect the accuracy of the watch. Accuracy depends on various factors, such as the quality of the movement, regulation, balance alignment and other technical aspects.

It is worth noting that the accuracy may decrease over the time the movement is running. This is due to the fact that the tension of the mainspring gradually decreases. As a result, the movement technically becomes slightly less accurate the longer it runs. Accordingly, it was a major challenge for the watchmakers and engineers responsible to keep the rate characteristics constant throughout the reserve time.

The test results for the caliber

There are some test results on the accuracy of watches with the Powermatic 80 movement. Tissot, as one of the main users of the movement, states that the accuracy is usually in the range of a deviation of -15 to +15 seconds per day. This corresponds to the generally accepted standard for mechanical watches in this price range.

There are also independent test results and testimonials from watch enthusiasts and collectors who evaluate and analyze the accuracy of watches with the Powermatic movement. These reports vary, sometimes significantly. While some users report very high precision within the specified range in the test, other users note slightly higher deviations.

It should be taken into account that the accuracy of a movement depends on a whole range of factors. It may vary slightly in measurements from one movement to another and also from test to test. These factors include, but are not limited to, the individual regulation of the watch, the wearing habits of the user, and (especially for watches that have been used for a long time) the maintenance history of the watch. It should also be noted that the Powermatic-80 movement is available in different quality levels. The chronometer version is the one with the highest guaranteed precision. This is certified by the COSC after extensive testing. Numerous models of this caliber are equipped with chronometer-certified movements, such as the Mido Commander Chronometer or the Tissot Ballade Powermatic 80 COSC.

The advantages of the silicon coil spring

As a special upgrade, the Powermatic movement is also available with a silicon balance spring in some watches. For a long time, these were only available in watches of the highest luxury class from manufacturers such as Ulysse Nardin and Patek Philippe.

The first prototype was developed in 2002 by mathematician Ludwig Oechslin for Ulysse Nardin. In a concerted research project by Patek Philippe, Rolex, Swatch Group and CSEM, the silicon hairspring has been continuously improved. As a result of rapid development, the Swatch Group is now able to use Si springs in much more affordable models, such as the Mido chronometer caliber 80 Si. There are considerable advantages over alloys such as Nivarox.

Silicon is non-magnetic, which makes the hairspring less susceptible to magnetic influences. Magnetic fields can affect the accuracy of a mechanical watch by changing the oscillation frequency of the hairspring. The use of a Si hairspring minimizes this problem. The material also has a higher temperature resistance compared to the alloys normally used. This contributes to improved accuracy over a wider temperature range. The surface of the material is smoother than that of common alloys, resulting in lower friction within the movement. Lower friction means more efficient energy flow and can help improve reserve and accuracy. The element is also less sensitive to external influences such as oils and lubricants, which allows the hairspring to last longer. In this way, maintenance intervals are longer.

Use of the Powermatic 80 caliber: Models at a glance

Different manufacturers use the modified ETA caliber under different trade names. At the pioneer Tissot, it is still called Powermatic 80 and is used in various model series such as Gentleman, PR 100, Seastar 1000 and Le Locle. Not all models in the ranges include the movement, but it can be found in special models in this range.

Hamilton uses the movement under the name H-10 in models such as the Hamilton Jazzmaster, Hamilton Khaki Field and Hamilton American Classic.

Mido uses the Powermatic movement under the name Caliber 80. Among others, it is installed in the models of the Baroncelli, Commander (and Commander II) and Multifort product lines. COSC-certified models of this caliber ensure a particularly high certified accuracy of the movement.

The manufacturer Certina also uses the movement under its original name in models such as the Certina DS-1 and the Certina DS-2.

Der Beitrag Powermatic 80 movement erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.