The beginning: first chronographs in the 18th century

The beginnings of the chronograph date back to the 18th century, when watchmakers began adding additional complications to conventional timepieces. As early as 1776, a significant development was made by watchmaker Jean Moïse Pouzait from Geneva, who designed a specially driven second hand. The second hand of this watch development had its own barrel. Although this second hand could be stopped, the hand could not be reset to zero. Furthermore, stopping this watch caused the entire movement to stop. If intermediate times had to be stopped, the period during which the watch was stopped had to be added to determine the time.

Milestones in the 19th century

Throughout the 19th century, various improvements and innovations were made to the chronograph. An important milestone occurred in 1831 by the Austrian watchmaker and employee of Breguet, Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl. The double-hand mechanism or rattrapante mechanism can be traced back to him. The principle of operation is based on two superimposed second hands. These can be stopped one after the other. The time interval to be measured can be calculated as a difference. For this purpose, the watch requires two independent, but coupled stop mechanisms. Because of this principle, the rattrapante chronograph is also known as a jumping second. An alternative name for the rattrapante is drag hand.

Another significant advance was the invention of the zero-setting chronograph by Adolphe Nicole. In 1844, he invented the so-called zero-setting heart, for which he applied for a patent in 1862. In 1862, it was also presented in the form of a fully functional pocket stopwatch. The zeroing heart can be understood as the pioneer of the flyback chronograph. This chronograph made it possible to reset the hand immediately after stopping, without stopping it first. This function was especially important for pilots and military personnel.

Blossoming in the 20th century

In the 20th century, the chronograph experienced a real heyday. In the 1930s, Breitling presented the first chronograph with a second pusher, its function made it possible to operate the start, stop and reset functions independently. This flyback technology is still used in most of these watches today.

In the 1960s, the chronograph conquered the world of motorsports. The famous Swiss watch manufacturer Heuer (now TAG Heuer) developed the legendary Autavia, which was a racing chronograph designed specifically for racing drivers. This watch was equipped with a tachymeter scale to measure speeds. With the typical design with two to three totalizers (subdials), the various Autavia models became a symbol of racing.

Automatic Chronographs

A major breakthrough was the development of the first automatic chronograph. This no longer had to be wound by hand; a rotor did the work while it was worn. The caliber 6139 was developed by the Japanese watch manufacturer Seiko in the late 1960s and launched on the market in 1969.

It was the first integrated chronograph movement with automatic winding. The function was first used in the Seiko Speedtimer, which reached market maturity shortly before the competition from Switzerland (Breitling, Heuer and Zenith).

Quartz and digital models

In recent decades, watches of all calibers have been increasingly equipped with modern technology. The introduction of quartz watches in the 1970s made it possible to measure time intervals precisely to the hundredth of a second. Later, stopwatches with electronic displays and digital readouts were also developed to enable even more precise measurements.

Nowadays, chronographs are available in many different designs, from classic mechanical models to high-tech watches and smartwatches. The latter are admittedly more precise and allow the measurement of the smallest intervals. However, time-honored mechanical chronograph types in particular still enjoy great popularity as exquisite pieces of jewelry. Subdials as an aesthetic feature characterize the look of many iconic chronograph models. True-to-the-original variants with rattrapante mechanisms can also be found, especially in the luxury segment.

Principle of operation: mechanisms of time measurement

A chronograph is, from the basic principle, a watch with additional functions that allow to measure time intervals. The principle of operation of the chronograph is based on a complex interaction of various mechanisms. These may differ depending on the type of watch (for example, manual winding, automatic or quartz chronograph), but they have in common the possibility of measuring time intervals. The chronograph should not be confused with the chronometer. The latter simply refers to a particularly precise mechanical watch. In most cases, the chronometer’s accuracy is certified (by the COSC in the case of Swiss movements). However, there are of course also chronograph calibers whose accuracy corresponds to that of a chronometer.

Chronograph function:

• On the one hand, the chronograph has a movement that displays the normal time. This movement drives the hour, minute and second hands and ensures that the time is displayed correctly.
• Moreover, the chronograph contains an additional hand: the stop second. Often, this is placed in the center of the dial. This hand as a function can be started, stopped and reset by a pusher. As a rule, this pusher is located on the side of the watch near the crown.
• An essential component of this type of movement is the clutch system. It consists of a clutch that connects or disconnects the additional stop-seconds hand to the movement. When the chronograph is not active, the clutch is disconnected, so the stop-seconds hand does not move and has no function.
• As soon as the pusher for the stop function is pressed, the clutch engages and connects the stop second hand to the movement. Now the hand starts to move and measures the elapsed time. Most often, a chronograph has subdials or totalizers, for example, to show measured minutes or hours.
• To end the stop function, the pusher is pressed again. The clutch disconnects the chronograph hand from the movement while the minute and hour hands continue to indicate the normal time. To reset the chronograph hand, a separate pusher is pressed. This resets the stop second hand and, if present, the minute hand and hour hand of the totalizers to zero.
• This basic operating principle applies to mechanical stopwatches. However, there are different variants and types of chronographs, including quartz models and modern digital watches based on electronic technology. However, the basic purpose of measuring time intervals remains.

Der Beitrag What is a chronograph? Function and history erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Elegance, clarity and practicality: if you’re looking for a functional chronograph without frills, you’ll reach your goal with the Sinn 358 collection and get top-class German engineering. But which model comes out on top in 2022? We compare the limited 358 C special edition with the classic Flieger variant, uncover the differences between the technical trailblazers, and show what model variety, from blue beauty to exotic decorative finishes, the 358 line still has in store.

Classic chronograph in enlarged version

Since the beginnings of the Frankfurt-based company, instrumental chronographs have been the focus of the Sinn watch manufacture. Practical and reliable time-stopping, coupled with durable and timelessly designed construction, are their great strengths. In 1998, the specialty watch company launched one of the most important collections of its modern era: the 356 line. Characterized by a very clear and, in many eyes, slightly sporty look, it combines all the traits that the die-hard Sinn enthusiast expects from his Hessian powerhouse on a dreamlike 38.5 millimeter case diameter: 100 meter water resistance, perfect legibility and a solid SW 500 chronograph movement.

Based on the success of the 356 line and the fact that 38.5 millimeters is a size too small for many wearers, Sinn has developed the 358 collection. Based on the 356 in both visual and technical aspects, it transports the advantages of the compact time stopper to the noticeably larger format of 42 millimeters. The Sinn watch is by no means monstrous with these dimensions, but its presence is considerable and is further enhanced by subtleties such as the strikingly curved watch glass or the relatively wide stainless steel bezel.

Sinn 358 C: Limited Edition in dark green

The 358 enters the 2022 model year with a particularly exciting addition: the 358 C Special Edition. The “C” in the name stands for “Chronos” and refers to the collaboration with the Ebner Media Group watch magazine of the same name, which has produced the strictly limited masterpiece.

The chrono functions are arranged in a chic, v-shaped tricompax layout that sets off the 30-minute scale (3 o’clock), 12-hour display (6 o’clock) and small seconds (9 o’clock) from the background in shiny galvanic black. The white Arabic numerals as well as the hour and minute hands with lush luminous color also contrast strongly with the background, so that despite the exotic factor, the 358 C is just as easy to read as you would expect from a genuine Sinn. An additional highlight is the dark green boar leather strap, which forms a perfect symbiosis with the dial color.

358 Sa aviator: top performance in a no-nonsense look

Those who forgo the trendy green color and instead prefer a black chronograph classic like in the picture book should order the Sinn 358 Sa Flieger. It follows the “conventional” design in the 358 portfolio, but unlike the Chronos variant, it is not limited and offers the highest possible contrast in the dial: white lettering on a black background. Also different from the special model is the Trikompax layout with 30-second indication in the upper center, 12-hour scale at 6 o’clock and unchanged seconds at 9 o’clock. In addition to the 3 o’clock position, this creates space for a Day-Date complication, which gives the Sinn 358 Sa Flieger a higher range of functions compared to the C special edition. In return, the Limited Edition scores with a clearer and, above all, symmetrical dial design due to the omission of the additional displays, which comes across more harmoniously than the packed Flieger model. So in 2022, the question is whether green noblesse or black tradition comes to the wrist. Like the Sinn 358 C, the Flieger variant is equipped with a bracelet in first-class correspondence to the dial. Those who prefer a steel solid or soft silicone strap instead of black leather have a free choice.

Comparison: A question of preferences

While the dial allows for a clear differentiation between the Chronos special edition and the black Sa Flieger 2022, the technical specifications of the two sister models show extreme similarities. For example, the Flieger uses the proven Sellita caliber SW 510, while the 358 C is equipped with an SW 500. Both movements are admired through a sapphire crystal crystal back, tick at four hertz and are anti-magnetic according to DIN 8309. The satin-finished stainless steel case does not show any differences either: 100 meters water resistant, it is equipped on the front side with a conspicuously strongly curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides and has a screw-down crown with crown protection. The weight of 86 grams, the generous lug width of 22 millimeters and the chronograph-standard overall height of 15 millimeters are also identical.

In addition, both instrumental chronographs are equipped with the in-house Ar-Dehumidifying technology, which enables the movement to be stored in a virtually dry atmosphere and thus slows down the aging of oils. This is achieved with the aid of three elements: an elaborate inert gas filling, a drying capsule and special EDR seals. As a result, aging processes are mitigated, tarnishing of the cover glass is prevented in the event of cold shocks, and longer functional reliability and consistent rate accuracy are ensured.

Bright blue or gray decorative finish? More models of Sa Flieger 2022

The far-reaching similarities in technology mean that the decision between the Sinn 358 C and the black Flieger is primarily a matter of aesthetic preference. Those who prefer maximum functionality and a classic look will choose the Flieger. Those who want to combine the appeal of the limited with an exotic color scheme should consider the Chronos version. However, these two references do not exhaust the product portfolio of the collection in the 2022 model year. The 358 Sa FLIEGER B E deserves a special mention, which differentiates itself from the black Flieger with a spectacular dial in dark blue including a sunburst finish and ivory-colored luminous indices, but is technically identical to the classic. The Sinn 358 Sa FLIEGER DS also stands out from the regular Flieger “only” by its dial, where a manually executed decorative cut provides a grayish aesthetic that allows the base material to shine through in some places.

The fifth and final member in the current Sinn 358 collection is the DIAPAL, the most technically advanced model in the family. Although, unlike the 358 Sa Flieger, it has a date-only complication instead of the Day-Date window, it conceals under its anthracite dial with black totalizers (as the only one in the series) the in-house DIAPAL technology, which pursues the goal of the Ar-Dehumidifying technology, which is also installed, even more intensively by using special, lubricant-free material pairings. The result: improved long-term accuracy and increased reliability.

Der Beitrag Sinn 358 C and Sa Flieger erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Timepieces with the name suffix “chronometer” enjoy a high reputation, although the exact meaning of the term is not clear to everyone. In today’s article, we clarify the question of what distinguishes chronometer watches and present the most popular models from renowned top brands in different price ranges. You will also learn how three of the most important certificates differ and by which manufacturers they are used.

Chronometer: Definition and main certificates

One of the most common mistakes among watch novices is the confusion between chronometers and chronographs. While the chronograph is a complication (additional function) that enables time stopping in addition to the regular time display, the chronometer describes a precision watch that has received a certificate of chronometer testing from a neutral official institution. To obtain the latter, fine-tuning (regulation) of the time indicator in various positions and at varying temperatures is required. The focus of chronometer testing is whether the time indicator meets specified precision standards. Simply put, chronometer watches are proven to be particularly precise watches.

Timepieces can be awarded their coveted status by various inspection bodies. The most famous is called COSC (Contrôle officiel suisse des chronomètres), is used by most manufacturers and essentially tests whether a movement (still unassembled) has a rate deviation that falls below -4 and +6 seconds daily. More stringent is the METAS chronometer test, which is conducted by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology and tests fully assembled watches under demanding conditions. METAS chronometer watches must not deviate from perfect time by more than -5/+5 seconds per day. METAS cooperates closely with Omega, but in theory can be freely used by all brands. In contrast, Rolex‘s “Superlative Chronometer” title is reserved only for the brand’s own luxury watches, is additionally carried out after the completion of a successful COSC test, and requires a maximum deviation of -2/+2 seconds.

METAS: Omega’s precision watches

Launched by Omega in 2015 with the ambition of improving the precision standards of the COSC, the METAS certificate is one of the most prestigious awards in the watch world. Successful “examinees” are allowed to call themselves Master Chronometer watches, which comes with a high status, especially due to the certification of at least 15,000 Gauss magnetic resistance. Interestingly, every METAS movement has already successfully passed a COSC test beforehand. The new generation Speedmaster Moonwatch, launched in 2021, is among the most prominent bearers of the title: equipped with the hand-wound caliber 3861, it offers 50 hours of power reserve and uses a silicon hairspring to ensure long-term accuracy at the highest level.

Automatic chronometers can also be found en masse in Omega’s variety of models – from the robust Seamaster collections to the elegant De Ville. However, some models, such as the popular Speedmaster 38, “only” have a regular COSC certificate. By 2023, Omega aims to change this and call all of its models Master Chronometer watches. Other brands have also recognized the potential of METAS testing – since 2021, for example, Tudor has been awarding its Black Bay with the strict certificate.

Breitling: Each watch has a COSC certificate

Breitling, on the other hand, places its full trust in the proven reliability of the COSC test, which was introduced in 1973, and has been launching all its models as chronometer watches for years without exception. Whether it’s the aviation icon Navitimer, diving legend Superocean or compact ladies’ models like the Chronomat 32 – no flying B makes it to the wrist without an officially certified precision test. That’s especially important for Breitling newcomers to know, because the manufacturer differentiates strongly in price between manufacture movements like the popular B01 and purchased movements based on ETA. The additional price of around 2,000 to 3,000 euros, which has to be paid for the manufacture movement in collections like the Superocean Heritage, is therefore not paid for noticeably higher accuracy, but for 70 hours of power reserve, the complex column wheel mechanism and other technical highlights.

Legendary classics such as the Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 43, which already live up to the official distinction in the title and leave no doubt about their certified precision, enjoy the greatest popularity. Those who like it particularly imposing will make the right choice with the new Super Chronomat in the 44-millimeter format.

Rolex: Tighter in-house testing

Rolex’s automatic timekeepers are among the most rigorously tested watches in the industry. Since 2015, in parallel with the launch of the new generation of movements with a whopping 70-hour power reserve (see caliber 3255), the industry’s most famous luxury brand has been awarding the title of Superlative Chronometer to watches that have already successfully passed a COSC test and, after being encased, also pass its in-house testing, which requires extremely low rate deviations of no more than -2/+2 seconds. Power reserve, water resistance, automatic winding and other technical aspects must also meet the toughest requirements.

The prime example of certified horology is the current Submariner Ref. 124060 with caliber 3230, whose blue Parachrom hairspring is one of the central highlights of the modern generation of movements. The brand new Datejust Generation of 2022 (Ref. 126300) with the automatic chronometer caliber 3235 also demonstrates how the Geneva-based luxury brand lives up to its great name through technical excellence. The fact that the superlative timepieces are always accompanied by a COSC certificate creates double security for customers and the certainty that, despite high in-house standards, there is still an independent party involved.

Tag Heuer, Junghans and Co.: COSC as an upgrade

Breitling’s practice of differentiating in its product portfolio between chronometer watches and lower-priced alternatives without the certificate is widespread in the industry. Tag Heuer, for example, tends to ship its entry-level models without COSC testing, while higher-positioned editions have the official precision certificate. The automatic chronographs in the current Tag Heuer Carrera collection (e.g. Ref. CBN2A1A.FC6537) are among the most sought-after models in the brand’s portfolio, powered by the Heuer 02 manufacture movement and boasting a COSC certificate. The same goes for the Autavia Flyback, which performs the stopping, resetting and restarting of its chronograph function with a single push of a button. The entry-level Formula 1 collection also has a COSC certificate in its upscale versions, which can be awarded for quartz movements as well as for mechanical calibers.

The traditional German brand Junghans also gives buyers of its prominent Meister collection the choice between chronometer watches and regular timepieces. One of the most sought-after models among precision lovers is the Meister Ref. 027/4130.00, which combines silvered elegance in the dial with timeless shapes and an automatic movement including an exposed case back.

Der Beitrag The most popular chronometer watches erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Since its debut, the Breitling AVI (Ref. 765 1953) Re-Edition has been celebrated by brand enthusiasts: Conceived as a tribute to the legendary “Co-Pilot” of 1953, the re-edition inspires with its amazing closeness to the historic original and combines great tradition with modern mechanics. From 2022, additional emotions will be created by five brand-new Classic AVI watches, which will keep the pilot’s watch company with its XXL diameter and fighter plane DNA.

Comeback of an icon

Outside the world of watches, there are only a handful of timepieces with universal recognition. The Rolex Datejust or the Omega Seamaster featured in the James Bond movies are such examples. And certainly the Breitling Navitimer, often dubbed the most famous pilot’s watch of all time, is one of them. In the unprecedented fame of the classic watch with its distinctive slide rule, introduced in 1952, another icon of post-war history is almost forgotten: The Breitling AVI Ref. 765, which was launched a year after the Navitimer and quickly earned the nickname “co-pilot.” Like the second man in the cockpit, the model is an important complement to the Navitimer at the time.

Not everyone likes the complex appearance of the slide rule and is all the more pleased with the simple, robust design. In appearance, the Breitling AVI is a tribute to the Swiss manufacturer’s functional on-board watches from the 1930s and 40s, not necessarily known for their beauty. Few contemporaries would have expected that these watches would receive a tribute almost 70 years later. In 2020, the moment of glory arrives: with the Breitling AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition (Ref. AB0920131B1X1), the Co-Pilot returns to the limelight and, with a limited edition of 1,953 pieces, finds its way onto the wrists of aviation enthusiasts and brand fans.

Only the technology is modern – plus two small details

The exclusivity begins on the case back, where the lettering “ONE OF 1953” reveals: this pilot’s watch is not ready-made. But one thing at a time. The stainless steel case of the Re-Edition measures 41.1 millimeters, which not coincidentally corresponds to the exact diameter of the historical prototype – the complete new edition is modeled on the historical prototype down to the smallest detail.

The journey through time continues with the all-black dial, whose Superluminova coating is applied by hand and is identical in color to the luminous color of the 1950s model. The shape of the dial has also been precisely adapted to the first Breitling AVI.

Like the original, the totalizers appear in the same color as the rest of the dial. Even the syringe shape of the central hands is unchanged from the original. Inside the pilot’s watch, modernity reigns supreme. The watches from 2020 are fueled by Breitling’s manufacture caliber B09, which is largely identical to the B01, but replaces its automatic movement with a traditional hand-wound one. The 21st century benefits include COSC certification and 70 hours of power reserve.

Even more strictly limited: Breitling AVI in noble metals

Those who want to celebrate the ticking tradition with an additional prestigious case material can replace the stainless steel case with an 18-karat rose gold version (Ref. RB0920131B1X1). Limited to 253 pieces, it swaps the black leather strap of the regular Classic AVI watches for a vintage-style brown variant. The pinnacle of luxury is a platinum version limited to 153 pieces (Ref. LB0920131C1X1) with a blue dial and gold leather strap.

Both noble metal editions have an exclusive engraving with their respective number of pieces on the case back, are water-resistant to 30 meters and are powered by the same hand-wound movement as the stainless steel model.

Relatives with style: The Aviator 8 editions

All three new versions are grouped under the umbrella of the new Classic AVI collection, whose members have a close historical connection to the early history of the Swiss company. An established family member is the Aviator 8 Chronograph 43, whose name comes from the legendary Huit (French “huit” for “eight”) Aviation Department. Founded in 1938 by Willy Breitling, the special department was responsible for the production of the company’s highest-quality pilot’s watches in its time and established the myth surrounding Breitling’s on-board watches.

Fueled by non-manufacture movements, the Aviator 8 Chronograph 43 scores higher on affordability and exists in several special edition models – the most popular being the military green Curtiss Warhawk (Ref. A133161A1L1X1) and the black, red and white Mosquito (Ref. AB01194A1B1X1). Those who prefer simple elegance over elaborate chronographs will also find what they are looking for in the Classic AVI watches: The Automatic Day & Date 41 (Ref. A45330101B1X1) compresses the date, time and day of the week in a timelessly distinguished design.

Next Generation: New Super Aviator in Goliath format

From spring 2022, the Classic AVI watches are complemented by five newcomers that measure a whopping 46 instead of 41 millimeters in diameter and are therefore entitled to bear the name “Super Aviator”. Each model in the new collection pays homage to one of the most important fighter planes of the 1940s, with the legendary North American P-51 Mustang receiving two editions.

Firstly, a stainless steel version with a black dial (Ref. AB04453A1B1X1), secondly, an 18-karat red gold version with an anthracite front (Ref. RB04451A1B1X1). It is the only model made of noble metal.

Back in the steel world, we encounter the elegant Tribute to Vought F4U Corsair (Ref. AB04451A1C1X1) honoring the U.S. fighter plane with gull wings, as well as the military-looking Curtiss Warhawk (Ref. AB04452A1L1X1) in green design.

The most striking is the Super AVI B04 Chronograph GMT 46 Mosquito (Ref. YB04451A1B1X1) with black ceramic bezel, white contrasting totalizers and red accents. This pays tribute to the legendary De Havilland DH.98 “Wooden Wonder” which, despite being made of wood, was one of the fastest aircrafts of the 1940s.

All five Super Aviator editions are powered by Breitling’s in-house manufacture B04 movement, which adopts the technology of the better-known B01 with its ratchet wheel control and vertical clutch – 70-hour power reserve and COSC certificate included. An added bonus: 100 meters of water resistance, which sets the Super AVI noticeably apart from the 30 meters of the AVI 1953.

Der Beitrag Breitling AVI erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.