Timeless designs and genuine in-house movements at a moderate price: Nomos Glashütte's recipe for success has made the brand hugely popular with newcomers and seasoned watch enthusiasts alike. But the Glashütte premium brand's lineup is vast, and choosing is hard. We show you which Nomos watch suits your taste, surprise you with cool entry-level models in the three-figure price range, and go all the way to the exclusive upper limits of this young manufacturer. Enjoy!
In the lineup since 1992: The manufacture's founding pillars
Today, the Glashütte manufacturer's portfolio comprises more than ten collections, all of which trace their origins back to 1990. Right after German reunification, Düsseldorf IT expert Roland Schwertner founded what is now the brand, and two years later began selling four collections: Tangente, Orion, Ludwig and Tetra. If you want to experience a Nomos watch in its purest form, reach for the compact 35-millimeter Tangente (Ref. 101): Since the company's founding, it has been the Saxon manufacturer's most important model, delighting Bauhaus lovers with its distinctive, unmistakable dial typography. Minimalists love the absence of a date just as much as the small seconds, blued hands and a height of just 6.2 millimeters – perfect for the modern suit wearer. Glashütte tradition isn't neglected either, as the hand-wound in-house Alpha movement demonstrates. Price: €1,460. What watch can compete with that?
The Orion (Ref. 301), for instance. It is also a slim 35 millimeters, but unlike the Tangente it features gold indices instead of Arabic numerals. By comparison, that makes its design even purer and cleaner. If you love maximum simplicity, perfect symmetry and a touch of gold, you could hardly invest €1,600 better. And which watch should traditionalists choose? The Ludwig (Ref. 201), without question. The pattern is familiar: again 35 millimeters, again small seconds and the Alpha inside, but this time with Roman numerals and a classic railroad minute track. For fans of extravagant shapes, we recommend the square Tetra collection, available in numerous color variants. Our favorite: the dark blue Tetra Fidelio (Ref. 450) from the special collection honoring Ludwig van Beethoven.
Young and sporty: From Club to Ahoi
To the question "Which Nomos watch is right for me?" we have a clear answer for beginners: the Club (Ref. 701). Officially listed at €1,080 and available from many retailers below the magic €1,000 mark, the hand-wound 36-millimeter model offers incredible value for money – after all, which watch in this price range can boast an in-house movement? Visually, the Nomos Glashütte Club goes for a casual, rugged look with a wide bezel and red hands; water resistance is a respectable 100 meters.
If you want to double the latter, the Ahoi (Ref. 552) is the one to go for: The "Atlantik" model with its ocean-blue dial looks extremely elegant, while a crown guard underscores the timepiece's rugged character. The Ahoi thus shows which Nomos watch makes the best outdoor companion – even if its high-gloss polish makes that hard to believe.
Around the world: Tangomat and Zürich
The Glashütte brand is especially popular among world timer enthusiasts. Which Nomos watch they choose depends on personal style. Undoubtedly one of the manufacturer's most beautiful models is the Zürich Weltzeit nachtblau (Ref. 807), which displays 24 time zones simultaneously and adjusts the main hands to a chosen zone at the push of a button. A dream for globetrotters, who will have to pay €4,620 for this 40-millimeter legend from Saxony.
A more affordable option is the Tangomat GMT (Ref. 635), which lets you select a time zone at nine o'clock by its most famous airport code and shows the corresponding local time at the red arrow at three o'clock. A clever, timeless design that at first glance looks like a classic Tangente in a larger format. A 40-millimeter diameter is big for a Nomos watch, but in absolute terms it's a great size on the wrist.
Standout designs: Autobahn and Metro
Which Nomos watch is right for me? For fans of an extravagant touch, our answer is the Autobahn collection (e.g., Ref. 1301). The highlight isn't its sizable 41-millimeter diameter or its 100 meters of water resistance, but the dial with its broad luminous band in the center. Wear the Autobahn in the dark and you'll be rewarded with an impressive light show that inevitably calls to mind the speedometer of a fast sports car. The date window at the bottom center runs in three lanes, showing not only the current day but also yesterday's and tomorrow's date. The Metro (Ref. 1101), defined by its characteristic power reserve indicator and domed aesthetic, also stands out in the Saxon brand's portfolio. It also shows which Nomos watch was the first to be fitted with the in-house Swing System, a self-developed escapement assembly that represents arguably the greatest technical achievement in the company's history.
Handcrafted luxury: Lambda and Lux
The high-end models of the Lambda collection prove that a Nomos watch can also conquer the five-figure price range. Traditionally, every model has an 18-karat rose or white gold case, which is fitted in a separate atelier with the hand-decorated caliber DUW 1001. When fully wound by hand, the latter delivers an impressive 84 hours of power reserve, displayed at the top of the dial on a 297-degree arc. Not just the hands, but everything about this watch …
The Glashütte brand's second manufacture model is called the Lux and captivates with its striking tonneau case. Maximum simplicity and the finest handcraftsmanship define this compact 38.5 by 34 millimeter high-flyer. Inside ticks the DUW 2002, which has 84 hours of power reserve and enthralls connoisseurs with elaborate beveling, gold chatons, spectacular sunburst finishing and further details. And which Nomos watch has it engraved on its balance cock that it was made with love in Glashütte?
Insider tip: Minimatik
An insider tip is the extremely charming Minimatik collection, shown here in a warm champagne color (Ref. 1204). At 35.5 millimeters in diameter, the series is small, but larger than its name suggests, and its dial reveals an interesting mix of wild neon orange and soft beige. If you love Arabic numerals and appreciate an 8.9-millimeter-thin automatic masterpiece, the Minimatik gives you an interesting outsider in the portfolio. Perfect for standing out from the crowd in an understated way. Which watch enthusiasts ultimately choose, of course, remains a personal and individual decision.
