Groundbreaking invention: Restart on the fly

Chronographs are precision tools for measuring the duration of an event. This stop function primarily enhances wristwatches that have been developed for professional or sporting purposes. The flyback mechanism optimizes handling: the special models have two pushers for stopping a time stage. The one at the 2 o’clock position starts and stops the measuring process. The button at the 4 o’clock position is used to return to the starting position.

Flyback watches allow an alternative use of the second pusher: If you press it during the measuring process without releasing it, the second hand returns to its original position. All you have to do now is take your finger off the button to start the next measurement. The flyback function is also known as the flying zero position or “retour-en-vol”. If you like it trendier, you could use the term “reset” to explain this functional feature to a layperson.

Efficient operation for time measurements

Anyone who sees wristwatches not only as a style statement, but also as an instrument for sports or at work, will recognize the advantage: if you want to restart measuring processes or start the next measurement immediately, three actions are normally necessary. Stopping is followed by zeroing and starting the next counting process.

Mechanical stopwatches, which used to be used for sporting events, are intuitive to operate. It rests in one hand and the fingers hover over the buttons for quick reactions. It becomes more awkward when you have to reach for the opposite arm and press small buttons three times in the correct order. If every second counts, efficient flyback watches are a great help: They combine three steps into one action that you can complete without looking at the timer.

More safety and accuracy thanks to on-the-fly zero setting

The first flyback watch had barely been invented when it accompanied Richard Byrd, who flew over the South Pole for the first time in 1929. Anyone familiar with the conditions of early aviation will understand his enthusiasm. Wristwatches were important navigational instruments. For example, the chronograph was activated at the sight of a prominent landmark in order to safely plan the further course of the flight.

For long distances, it was necessary to stop time periods several times. Even if you performed the three maneuvers for zeroing as quickly as possible, the seconds lost added up. If you didn’t take this into account, you risked navigational errors, which could be fatal at high flying speeds. It was conceivable to miss the target or misjudge the fuel supply. Professional aviation pioneers took these differences into account using complicated calculation methods. They were simplified when the flyback function made its debut. The same applied to scientific and military measurements, which required precision to the second.

The initial spark: patent from Longines

The pioneering work was carried out by the Swiss brand Longines, which presented a flyback watch in 1925 that was praised by pilots. Around ten years later, it patented the function that characterized the legendary L13ZN calibre. It was a milestone in the art of watchmaking with an innovative movement design:

The classic design stipulates that the relevant movement element must be disengaged when the chronograph or the hands are moved to the zero position. If it remained engaged, damage would be inevitable. Longines has succeeded in integrating a mechanism that disengages and engages the zeroing process in an instant. It is the heart of the flyback function, which is one of the most sophisticated complications.

Refining inspiring ideas – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

One brand ensured the comeback of the additional function in 1996 and still cultivates it today – for example with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback. It shows that the complication is also practical for diving when the manufacture masters a challenge: the more operating elements there are, the trickier it is to ward off penetrating environmental influences. The black Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback with 300 m water resistance, ceramic case and canvas strap succeeds in this mission.

Watch history brought to life – Chopard L.U.C. Chrono One Flyback

The flying zero setting is often a tribute to watchmaking tradition. The Chopard L.U.C. Chrono One Flyback is a prime example of this. The premium manufacturer has abandoned its preference for gold to create an authentic homage for this limited edition. The automatic chronograph pays tribute to the titanium alloy that plays a role in aviation. The watch design thus builds a bridge to aviation, for which the flyback function was developed. The khaki-colored dial and light brown leather strap reinforce the vintage charm.

A breath of fresh air for the tried and tested – Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet 42 mm

The luxury brand based in Nyon only made its debut in 1980. By then, the relevance of the flyback function had long since been put into perspective. Ambition and a love of high-contrast design were behind the idea of giving the colorful Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Purple 42 and the Unico Gourmet the watch complication. It proves that unconventional approaches and traditional craftsmanship do not contradict each other. The same applies to the built-in chronograph movement: with its double clutch system and column wheel on the transparent dial side, it stands out from the ordinary.

By no means threatened with extinction – chronographs with flyback function

Aircraft, research or professional sport: there have long been measuring instruments that outperform mechanical flyback wristwatches in terms of accuracy and functionality. Apart from a brief pause during the quartz crisis, the chronograph add-on mechanism has held its own. Those who have a soft spot for it are catered for by ambitious watch manufacturers in a variety of ways, for example:

• Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle (RD#4)
• Breguet Type 20 Chronographe 2057
• Frederique Constante Chronograph Manufacture Flyback watches
• Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Purple 42 Special Edition
• Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet 42-mm
• Longines Spirit Flyback
• Patek Philipp 5935A Worldtimer
• Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot
• Rolex Yacht-Master II
• Tag Heuer Monza Flyback watches
• Zenith Pilot Big Date

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Source image for the article: From File:Heuer Fliegerchrono 1.jpg: Gordito1869derivative work: Superbass – This file was derived from this work: Heuer Fliegerchrono 1.jpg:, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=114514042

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“Here I am”: No watch brand is more strongly associated with a confident, masculine presence than Breitling. Wearers of the pilot watch brand are financially successful, coveted by women, and love everything masculine from muscle cars to fighter planes and Harley Davidsons. But are these stereotypes even true? We look into the minds of the average Breitling owner, show some of the most prominent wearers and explain which model is preferred by whom.

Avenger: Powerhouse for confident doers

If you want to answer the question “Who wears Breitling?” as closely as possible to the prototype outlined at the beginning, the oversized Super Avenger 48 millimeter provides the desired answer. The robust instrument makes the high testosterone level of its wearer literally visible and can only be worn with a great deal of self-confidence due to its massive dimensions, but does not neglect the practical benefits – readability and performance are at top level. The Super Avenger is a watch for dominant handlebars and, unlike the filigree Navitimer, manages to combine Breitling’s close aviation relationship with a beefy, massive look. Those who prefer more moderate dimensions choose the 43-millimeter version without the “Super” in the name. Celebrity wearers of the Avenger include Gordon Ramsay and Leonardo DiCaprio – two men who have definitely come into their own in life.

Navitimer: Nostalgia in a prominent guise

Contrary to what one might assume, the most famous of all Breitlings does not only appeal to men who covet the prestige and extreme recognition value of the aviator model. Above all, nostalgics who admire everything mechanical from bygone times and thus the complicated slide rule of the Navitimer 1 will get their money’s worth with the flagship of the Swiss luxury brand. Few watches can combine tradition and modernity more confidently than the cockpit instrument for the wrist created in 1952. And who wears the Grandessa of all Breitlings in the celebrity world? Not only Hollywood legends John Travolta, Tommy Lee Jones and the tragically ill Paul Walker, but also world-class musicians from Miles Davis to Serge Gainsbourg and Herbie Hancock have fallen in love with the iconic look of the instrument. Incidentally, wearers who enjoy indulging in horological nostalgia should also set their sights on the current Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph collection, which gives a second life to famous models from the company’s history.

Chronomat: From Adam Driver to Richard Hammond

The Chronomat collection’s following is particularly prominent: not only the current Breitling advertising faces Brad Pitt, Adam Driver, and Charlize Theron, but also Bruce Willis, Tom Cruise, Idris Elba, Justin Timberlake, and the legendary “Top Gear” presenters Jeremy Clarkson and Richard Hammond have fallen for the charm of the power timepiece as avowed wearers. Even Celine Dion wears the aesthetic powerhouse on her wrist.

There are good reasons for the popularity of the watch: With strong character features such as the four riders on the bezel and the roller bracelet, the time stopper skillfully differentiates itself from the masses, while also scoring points for its high robustness, excellent legibility, and a high reputation that many enthusiasts equate with the prestige of Navitimers. The new models from 2020 and the enlarged Super Chronomat, in which the top brand from Grenchen offers a complex four-year calendar for the first time, surpass everything that has gone before, both technically and visually: from the renowned B01 manufacture movement to the pompous 18-carat gold version, all the prerequisites are met to continue attracting the wearing elite of international celebrities in the future.

Aviator and Premier: elegance for gentlemen like Brad Pitt

To the question “Who wears Breitling?” one would intuitively respond with strong power men rather than fine gentlemen with a penchant for particular elegance. The Premier collection is aimed precisely at the latter target group: gentlemen like Brad Pitt appreciate the polished cases, chic color combinations, and fine details ranging from tachymeter scales to angular chronograph pushers, with which Breitling shows itself from its gentlest side.

The Aviator collection also focuses on elegant creations, but puts the aviation history of the Swiss manufacturer in the foreground. Models like the AVI 1953 Edition or the Super AVI B04 with different variants on aviation icons from Curtiss Warhawk to P-51 Mustang revive technical milestones of the past, making them incredibly attractive to many Breitling wearers. Because Premier and Aviator are still comparatively new collections, the list of prominent owners has been limited so far, which is guaranteed to change in the future.

Exotic Breitlings and their wearers: from Ferdinand Piech to David Beckham

Away from its most famous collections, Breitling produces a number of exceptional models, such as the Professional series, where high-tech quartz movements meet ultra-resistant materials like the patented Breitlight material. The Aerospace, which has since been eliminated from the brand’s product portfolio, is also one of the representatives of operational instruments that prioritize absolute precision over mechanical nostalgia.

Perhaps the most famous owner of an Aerospace was Ferdinand Piech: the great Volkswagen manager wore the precise watch on the blue dial and added a separate GMT module on the bracelet – effectively a small watch under the watch. In any case, an eye-catching look that today’s Breitling customers can only experience in the Super Chronomat 44. Soccer icon David Beckham also maintained a close relationship with the winged B for many years and wore one of the most stylish, but unfortunately only available on the second-hand market, models in the company’s recent history: the Transocean Chronograph Unitime. The world time watch shows the wearer our globe in the center of its dial and can display 24 time zones in parallel, making it a work of art and functional travel instrument in equal measure.

Wearers: Charlize Theron shows the way

We must admit to having found few answers with female celebrities in our “Who wears Breitling?” question. While Rolex and Omega have been able to build a strong following among the ladies over the past decades, Breitling has always been considered a men’s brand and even reinforced this image with promotional videos featuring pilots surrounded by scantily clad women.

CEO Georges Kern has apparently registered this image and within the last three years has made great efforts to make Breitling more attractive to women. With success: the current selection ranges from powerful editions like the Superocean Automatic 36 or Chronomat 32 to the filigree Navitimer Automatic 35.

A change can also be seen in marketing: With the “Spotlight Squad,” consisting of U.S. actress Charlize Theron, Chinese actress Yao Chan, and ballet dancer Misty Copeland, the brand is bringing in full female power to make the spectrum of its wearer types more diverse. Whether the famous female wearers can have a lasting impact on the perceived image of the manufacturer, we wait with bated breath.

Der Beitrag Who wears Breitling? erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

The fascination of the watch world lies in its incredible diversity. In addition to shining stars like the Rolex Submariner or Omega Speedmaster, there are thousands of exciting models that are not in the limelight, but perform impressively from a technical and visual perspective. Today we present six of our favorite Swiss watch insider tips that will make your wrist stand out from the crowd and are highly trendy in expert circles.

Oris Aquis Date Upcycle

Recycling is an important step towards preserving nature, is very much in vogue and is used in countless products. Recently also in timepieces, as evidenced by the Oris Aquis Date as Upcycle Ref. 01 733 7766 4150 set: The 41.5-millimeter, 300-meter water-resistant diver’s watch features a dial made of recycled PET plastic, making each one unique and remarkably stand out from the crowd. Red, blue, green, yellow – the color variety of the gemstone-like surface knows no bounds. Elegant contrasts are created by the gray ceramic bezel, while the power of the Swiss watches is generated by the automatic movement 733 (base: SW200-1). With the special edition, which is also available in a smaller version (36.6 millimeters), Oris makes a statement for marine conservation and processes plastic from the ocean.

Longines Spirit Collection

Although Longines offers a fascinating history and luxurious quality standards at a relatively affordable price, the traditional brand from Saint-Imier often remains under the radar. Unjustly so, as the Longines Spirit collection unveiled in 2020 demonstrates: Launched in honor of historic explorers such as pilot Amelia Earhart or polar explorer Paul-Emile Victor, it combines timeless elegance with state-of-the-art, chronometer-certified mechanics. A prime example is the Longines Spirit Automatic 42mm (Ref. L3.820.4.93.0): Decorated with five stars on the dial, representing maximum high quality in the Longines world, it combines deep blue beauty with a stylishly implemented chronograph function.

Their power is provided by the automatic movement L688.4 with a full 60-hour power reserve, column wheel and robust silicon balance spring. On the back, the Swiss watch secret tips have a screwed case back, which reinforces the massive impression of the 16.5 millimeter high and 42 millimeter large stainless steel body. Perfect for anyone who appreciates masculine power.

Fortis Flieger F-39 Midnight Blue

One of the biggest watch insider tips in Switzerland is the Fortis brand. Those who love robust toolwatches with ingenious functionality and rich aviation history should set their sights on the Flieger collection, first launched in 1987. The Fortis Flieger in the F-39 Midnight Blue series (Ref. F4220011) in particular has captured our hearts: while the 39-millimeter slim stainless steel case with 200-meter water resistance and bidirectional 12-hour bezel provides superior functionality, the dial of the Swiss watch secret shines with two brand-specific features. Between 11 and 1 o’clock runs the orange “Synchroline”, designed for the exact synchronization of two pilot watches in formation flight.

Those who don’t regularly sit in the cockpit will derive greater benefit from the “Brixtrack”, the external minute scale with applied blocks of Superluminova X1, a special luminous material with blue afterglow. Readability: first class. The aesthetic highlight is the vivid blue hue with vertical brushing, which harmonizes excellently with the orange contrasts. Inside, we don’t find any insider tips, but a solid automatic movement UW-30 with 38 hours of power reserve.

MIDO Multifort Patrimony

Among architects, Mido’s Swiss watches are no insider tips, but for most other enthusiasts, the manufacturer is more unknown than Swatch Group sister Tissot and other brands that stand for top quality in the triple-digit price range. Those who prefer distinguished retro design with an individual touch should take a closer look at the Multifort Patrimony (Ref. M040.407.16.060.00). Not only the classic pulsometer scale of the 40-millimeter dresswatch, but also its filigree second hand, the typography of the Arabic numerals and the segmented dial with color gradient convey a piece of that charm we know from pocket watches of the 19th century. The strong curvature of the sapphire crystal also marks a visual highlight of the Patrimony. From a technical point of view, the Swiss timepieces could not have arrived more clearly in the present: a whopping 80 hours of power reserve characterize the automatic movement of this and many other insider tips in the Mido product portfolio. For lovers of the portable time stop, we recommend the chronograph versions of the Multifort Patrimony, with an elegant bicompax layout.

Zenith Chronomaster Original

If you’re looking for mechanical excellence but don’t want to sacrifice the five-figure sums of Breguet, Audemars Piguet and other high-end manufacturers, you’ll find countless Swiss watch insider tips in Zenith’s portfolio. Often overshadowed by Rolex, Breitling and Omega, the luxury brand shows the latter celebrity brands their limits when it comes to chronograph technology. Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Original (Ref. 03.3200.3600/21.M3200), whose dream diameter of 38 millimeters is home to a spectacular El Primero caliber with the typical high frequency of five hertz (36,000 vibrations per hour). Stopping time the fast way.

The dial design of this watch insider tips also marks a highlight of the Chronomaster Original: Where black and white provide an expressive play of contrasts, the three totalizers of the technical wonder can be read flawlessly. A design with character. Connoisseurs are aware of the impressive history of the El Primero caliber and pay their well-deserved respect to the Chronomaster, but the general horological community has the chronograph pioneer only sporadically on its radar amidst the Submariners, Speedmasters and Navitimers.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique

The same goes for the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, for example, in the Automatique Ref. 5015 12B30 NABA, which, while not a cheap diver’s watch, does incredible things in its price range and effortlessly outshines almost all its competitors. This starts with the dominant presence of the 45-millimeter behemoth, which is not for the faint of heart and, with its sapphire crystal bezel, provides a foretaste of the exorbitant attention to detail that the beefy manufacture piece brings to the wrist. Manual work instead of machine production is the motto to which the mechanics of the 300-meter water-resistant titanium behemoth are also subjected: the in-house caliber 1315 has been given a full 120 hours of power reserve.

Anyone who can wear the size of the Fifty Fathoms will enrich their collection with an all-rounder in a class of its own, for whom no challenge seems impossible. On the NATO bracelet, the Swiss Zeitanzeiger Geheimtipps trade in a bit of their intimidating presence for a casual, modest touch that suits the Super Diver first class. If you want to take your passion for divers to a new level with an investment of 10,000 to 15,000 euros, you’ve come to the right place.

Der Beitrag Swiss watches insider tips erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Precise, efficient, and highly controversial, electric movements have caused heated discussions in the watch world and changed the industry like no other innovation of the 20th century. But how does a quartz movement actually work? We take a look behind the scenes of this ingenious microtechnology, explore its history and explain how it works in an understandable way. You can read all about the quartz movement now.

Simply explained: The basic principle of quartz movement

How a mechanical movement works is familiar to most enthusiasts: Energy is stored in a mainspring and passed on via a gear train to the regulating organ (“assortment”), which uses the escape wheel, balance, hairspring and pallet anchor to generate the beat of the timepiece. The beauty is that a quartz movement works in exactly the same way in its basic structure – with the difference that other components are used. The task of storing energy is now no longer performed by a barrel, but by a battery. A gear train still exists. And where in the mechanical movement the assortment provides the correct second beat, quartz movements use a tiny crystal. This quartz crystal determines how much energy the battery is allowed to deliver to the gear train so that exact time measurement takes place. But how does a quartz movement work in detail? Before we clarify this question, we’ll first get to the bottom of how the electrical system came into being.

From the laboratory to the wrist: the birth of the quartz watch

The latter begins earlier than one would expect – namely in the 1920s. At that time, the quartz movement was not conceived in its function for wristwatches, but was used in the form of huge apparatus in American laboratories. The breakthrough came with the New York inventors Joseph W. Horton and Warren Alvin Marrison, who presented the world’s first quartz movement in 1927. It is already many times more precise than the mechanical movements of the time, but suffers from extreme fluctuations in precision depending on temperature. However, news of the new invention spreads around the globe like wildfire and leads to enormous technical advances. In 1932, researchers Adolf Scheibe and Udo Adelsberger in Berlin succeeded in ensuring an average daily rate deviation of just 0.002 seconds with the help of constant temperatures. A milestone in time measurement. In 1938, the first freely marketable quartz watch for industry and science appeared.

In the post-war period, quartz watches replaced the previously widespread precision pendulum clocks as the scientific standard and were rapidly optimized to more compact designs. The noble Geneva-based manufacturer Patek Philippe, known for its fine mechanical movements, made a decisive contribution to this development. In 1960, it launched the “Chronotome,” the first portable quartz timepiece. At that time, electrical technology was incredibly expensive, making even the best mechanical watches from Rolex, Omega and Co. seem affordable. It was not until 1969 that Seiko succeeded in building the world’s first quartz watch for the wrist, the Astron, which was ready for series production.

How does a quartz movement work in detail?

A look at the complexity of the technology reveals why it took decades to perfect it in miniature. We remember: The quartz crystal regulates how much energy is transferred from the battery to the gear train. But the fork-shaped crystal can’t do it alone: A stepper motor is connected between it and the battery, which offsets the pulses of the quartz crystal with the energy of the battery and transports the latter to the gear train in a throttled manner. The fact that the crystal can generate pulses at all is due to the piezoelectric effect. The latter, which we all know from the piezo igniter of a gas grill, means that certain metals and crystals change their shape under electrical voltage.

In the technical world, a deformation is referred to as an “oscillation”. How fast these oscillations occur depends on the size and shape of the crystal and influences how many pulses per second are passed from the battery to the stepper motor and ultimately to the gear train. Of course, we want exactly one pulse per second so that the second hand ticks exactly once per second. To ensure that the quartz movement fulfills this function, the entire industry has agreed on a standard value of 32,768 oscillations of the quartz crystal per second. Quite fast, this little tuning fork.

Quartz crisis: Mechanical watches on the precipice

Even with a fertile imagination, inventors Joseph W. Horton and Warren Alvin Marrison could probably not have foreseen the extent to which their technology would change the world of watches. After Seiko launched the first quartz wristwatch in 1969, a veritable storm of revolution swept through the watch world: in 1970, Junghans introduced the Astro-Quartz, the first German version for the wrist, followed by the legendary Hamilton Pulsar in 1972. With a retail price of over $2,000, it was more expensive than many a car in its day. But during the 1970s, quartz technology became so affordable that everyone could afford it, and mechanical watches lost their raison d’être for many people.

Because quartz was far more precise, far less expensive and often far more reliable than mechanical watches, sales of traditional timepieces plummeted dramatically. By the end of the quartz crisis in the mid-1980s, many traditional brands had gone bankrupt, and thousands of jobs in the traditional watch industry had been eliminated.

From bargain to luxury quartz watches: Today’s model spectrum is huge

We have to admit: Although we are passionate fans of mechanical movements, the speed and accuracy of the quartz movement hold a certain fascination for us. If you want to experience the unbeatable precision of electronic timekeeping, you’ll find it in all price ranges: While the traditional Swiss brand Tissot already offers high-quality quartz watches in the T-Classic and T-Trend collections below the 200-euro mark, Tag Heuer specializes in premium quartz watches with high-performance chronograph functions. The sporty Formula 1 collection, as well as the Tag Heuer Aquaracer, are excellent examples of the manufacturer’s electric expertise. If it should be more affordable, the top brands Hamilton, Junghans and Longines are strong favorites of our magazine besides Tissot.

Those who want to experience electronic technology from its most exclusive side will find a spectacular selection of luxury quartz watches at top brands like Omega and Breitling. The latter take electric timekeeping to the extreme with extreme temperature resistance, long battery life and even higher precision values than regular quartz movements. This shows that quartz does not have to be cheap. The technology has its full justification in the luxury class.

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