Early ventures and the birth of a legend

Wilsdorf’s adventure with time began in his early twenties, when he came to London and plunged headlong into the watch industry. His odyssey in the watch industry began with the founding of Wilsdorf & Davis in 1905. However, the official registration of Rolex in 1908 was the real birth of an iconic brand.

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The name “Rolex” itself reflects Wilsdorf’s grand vision. Short, globally pronounceable and unforgettable, it was not just a brand, but a statement that would transcend cultural boundaries.

The unleashing of innovation

Wilsdorf’s unwavering commitment to unparalleled precision and his innate flair for innovation defined the essence of Rolex and helped the brand achieve extraordinary success in the watchmaking world. It was this relentless pursuit of excellence that paved the way for a pivotal moment in Rolex’s history. In 1910, Wilsdorf’s efforts culminated in Rolex receiving the coveted Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision, an award traditionally reserved for the finest marine chronometers of the time.

This award was not just a certification, it marked a paradigm shift in the perception of wristwatches. The awarding of the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision to Rolex in 1910 was nothing less than a declaration – a proclamation that a wristwatch could rival and even surpass the precision and accuracy of its larger maritime counterparts. Wilsdorf’s vision had made Rolex not just a timepiece, but a marvel of watchmaking, an instrument that could compete with the most prestigious timepieces of its day. This achievement underscored Rolex’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking and set a new standard of precision that would endure throughout the brand’s history.

The Oyster case and the dance of time

Wilsdorf’s quest to push boundaries reached its zenith with the introduction of the Oyster case in 1926. The world’s first waterproof and dustproof watch case was not just a timepiece, but a triumph over the elements. The swimming of the English Channel in 1927 by Mercedes Gleitze wearing an Oyster was living proof of this.

Not content to rest on his laurels, Wilsdorf turned his attention to the heart of the watch – its movement. In 1931, the Perpetual rotor was introduced, a self-winding marvel that made tedious winding superfluous. This was not just an innovation, but a revolution in terms of comfort and reliability.

Shaping moments: The lasting legacy of Hans Wilsdorf and Rolex

Hans Wilsdorf’s mark on the art of watchmaking is a living history of foresight, innovation and a relentless pursuit of excellence. Under his leadership, Rolex became a symbol of precision, durability and timeless elegance. Today, the Rolex brand is not just a timepiece, but a story that reflects the enduring legacy of a man who redefined how the world measures and appreciates time.

Der Beitrag Portrait of Hans Wilsdorf erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Like the physicist, the American brand is also known for its pioneering achievements. Christopher Nolan chose Hamilton for his Oppenheimer historical film not only for this reason, but also out of a love of authentic and precise staging. The vintage timepieces that the film watch specialist carefully selected for the wrists of the main actors were a perfect match for his requirements.

Time indicator of the official railroad supplier for Oppenheimer

After the company was founded in 1892, word quickly spread that Hamilton attached great importance to quality and precision. The same goal was being pursued by the railroad, which was just establishing itself in the United States and had a problem: accidents were not uncommon, mainly due to inaccurate timekeeping.

The shortcoming changed thanks to the collaboration with the watchmaker. Soon after, his timepieces became popular in the USA as “The Watch of Railroad Accuracy”. The glorious debut was not only honored by the manufacturer with the American Classic Railroad Auto, but also by Christopher Nolan with his decision to use the brand as a film outfitter. Given its history and values, it seems plausible that Robert Oppenheimer wore the watches that the US government trusted for railroad punctuality.

Hamilton’s American Classic Railroad Auto features the typical elements of pocket-sized railroad watches with a silver dial and rose-colored case. The most striking feature is the 60 scale on the edge of the case for reading the minutes and seconds. The hour scale can be found in small format in the center. If the dial design reminds you of the wheels of historic steam locomotives, you’re in the right place.

Functional elegance for the scientist – Cushion B, Lexington & Endicott

Robert Oppenheimer’s mission as scientific director of the Manhattan Project was bizarre: he was to develop an atomic bomb that could theoretically destroy the world in order to save it in the face of international threats. Even if the historical drama of the same name is worth seeing precisely because of this contradiction, Christopher Nolan lived up to his reputation: no detail seems illogical or out of place. In keeping with the director’s aspirations, Hamilton organized elegant functional clocks for Oppenheimer from collectors in a discreet Art Deco style.

One of the first brand collections for the wrist was called “Geometrics” because of its shape. This included the gold-plated Cushion B with a 26.7 mm diameter and lizard leather strap. Initially, the combination of cushion-shaped case and round watch glass was typical. Later, both components were accentuated in a square shape on the striking entry-level watch, which was advertised as “The Man’s Cushion” and produced until the early 1930s.

The second of the Oppenheimer watches, the Lexington, appears on the screen with a 29 mm case and black dial design. It only appeared in this color in the brand catalog and was only available for one year in the 1940s. The plot of the Oppenheimer thriller hints at the reason: The company had to concentrate on war production.

Hamilton also chose a model from the Endicott collection for Oppenheimer, which was popular with American men between 1938 and 1948 and was available with various dial options. The earlier variants included Oppenheimer’s 27.8 mm film version with gold numerals.

The inner workings of Hamilton’s timepieces play a key role in the idea that they match Oppenheimer: it can be assumed that a high-precision movement inspired the physicist. The same applies to modern watch lovers, whose hearts the brand has captured with the Jazzmaster Open-Heart Auto. The 42 mm men’s version showcases the H-10 caliber with partial skeletonization. The automatic movement has earned the aesthetic tribute: thanks to it, the Hamilton Jazzmaster Open-Heart Auto impresses with an 80-hour power reserve.

Salon-capable piping skirt and operational military ordinance for Leslie Groves

When it comes to the Oppenheimer props, Hamilton cleverly remembers that a lieutenant in the US Army has different expectations of timepieces than a quantum physicist. As a more elegant service watch, Leslie Groves wears a Piping Rock, which made its screen debut in 1932 in the Marlene Dietrich film “Shanghai Express”.

In Sternberg’s love story, Hamilton’s design icon was presented in noble gold and with a cover. Oppenheimer’s military colleague, on the other hand, wears an early 30 mm steel version with Roman numerals on the bezel, the dimensions of which were impressive for the time. The same applied to the 32 mm Military Ordonance functional watch with a steel case and striking numerals from the 1940s.

Movie watches and military watches are traditional focal points of Hamilton. The Khaki Navy Frogman Auto is a reminder of this in the current brand range. With its bridge-shaped crown guard, uncluttered dial design and bold hands, it is based on the first diving watches for the US Navy in the 1950s. Specifically, the historical model was used to equip a Navy special forces unit: The Frogmen. A 1951 war film revolved around them, in which the navy watch was featured. The Khaki Navy Frogman Auto also refers to this and is now recommended as a companion for an active lifestyle.

Lady Hamilton A-2 – Jewelry for the lady at Oppenheimer’s side

The great love of the scientific director of the US atomic bomb project was from Recklinghausen and came to the United States because her father was pursuing a career there. Although the political public’s enthusiasm for the botanist and communist was limited, they married in 1940.

The dainty Lady Hamilton A-2 (1947) made of gold, which adorns Kitty Oppenheimer in the historical film, resembles a declaration of love. If you would prefer to wear the cocktail watch yourself, the American Classic brand collection has you covered. The Lady Hamilton Vintage Quartz is a contemporary interpretation of the 1950s design. The plum blue design version with four diamonds adds a touch of extravagance.

Zooming in on the nostalgic supporting cast fuels the suspicion that the watch brand has an impressive film history beyond the Oppenheimer thriller. Correct! Its timepieces have appeared in more than 500 films, which Hamilton is celebrating with the Jazzmaster Auto Capsule Collection. Together with other special models, the three-hand watch conjures up well-dosed Hollywood glamor on the wrist. Men or women? The black and gold Jazzmaster Auto does not specify.

Der Beitrag Hamilton for Oppenheimer erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Sensational start, but in the wrong year…

When the manufacturer presents old models for underwater missions, it starts with the legendary Marine. An extendable strap, square shape and a double case with a plug-in mechanism in which the crown disappeared: the Tool Watch developed in 1932 was brimming with ingenious solutions and even mastered impressive functional tests. Professional divers slipped into their bulky suits to prove its water resistance at a depth of 73 meters in Lake Geneva. The ocean explorers applauded. Otherwise, the feedback was muted because the usefulness was not apparent to the general public.

100th anniversary of the brand and the birth of a brand icon

A few years later, sporty wristwatches hit the nerve of the times. Military missions showed that even in the airborne forces, contact with water was not out of the question and the timepiece had to be able to withstand it. The idea can be transferred to everyday life and in 1948 led to the sports watches that can be recognized today by the seahorse on the back. The robust case, the sturdy lugs and the striking indices and numbers: All of this served functionality and was at the same time aesthetically unconventional for old models. The contrast between the sporty design elements and the noble tenor of the water-resistant watch legend was also striking.

Vintage originals are rare and technically outdated. This is why Omega is beaming old watches from the Seamaster Automatic into the present – for example with the Co-Axial Master Chronometer 1948. The homage retains the post-war design, but integrates state-of-the-art watch technology. Case and dial in platinum, indices and hands in gold: the material performance suggests that this nostalgic tribute is no bargain. The Seamaster was well received at its debut because it was made for challenges in the air, on land and at sea. The Omega models in the Aqua Terra family have been building on this promising multifunctionality for several years.

Quality leap from waterproof timepiece to the first diver’s watch

When scuba divers with a penchant for great timepieces see this Omega Seamaster in the model overview, their hearts leap for joy: in 1957, this icon featured a new type of crown seal and a specially sealed crystal of considerable thickness. Its developers also thought about the finer points of safety: the diver’s bezel was designed so that it could not be accidentally adjusted. The name of the first Omegas for professional diving was “Seamaster 300”, which can be misleading: The water resistance system did not extend to 30 bar, but to 20 bar. The same applied to the second edition in 1963, in which the luminous bezel was one of the improvements.

The diving icon has remained true to its look for many years – apart from varying hand shapes. So that fans of the design icon do not have to fall back on old models, the Seamaster 300 also appears in the current brand range – as a chronometer with caliber 8912 and 30 bar water resistance. As part of the anniversary edition, a stylish version in summery ocean blue was added in 2023.

Tool watches that are not afraid of depths

When you look at old Omega Seamaster models, it becomes clear that the manufacturer focused on improving the technical setting for professional use. To this end, it was also prepared to implement unusual ideas. The Bullhead was originally developed for rally sport with an asymmetrical case shape and operating elements at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions.

In addition to the pressure load during deep-sea diving, the penetration of helium atoms is a neuralgic functional risk. The slightest mishap can be life-threatening during extreme expeditions under the sea surface. With the Seamaster Polprof, all aesthetic requirements were therefore put aside and the focus was on deep-sea suitability – with the single-shell case, the bezel lock with red pusher and the counter nut on the crown. The quintessence was a water resistance system that at that time reached a depth of 600 m and in the newer model versions even works up to 1,200 m. When it comes to Omega watches for men, old models with an eccentric look are in demand. The Bullhead and Ploprof therefore still enrich the brand portfolio.

In 1976, the big hit in terms of pressure stability was achieved: aesthetically, it was based on the first diver’s watch, but retained the left-sided crown position of the Ploprof. What was new was not only the domed “Pilot Line” case, but also the water resistance of this Seamaster to 1000 meters. It remained unsurpassed until 2009 and was brilliantly surpassed by the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep in 2019.

During a world record dive, she ventured to the deepest point of the Mariana Trench with Victor Vescovo. The expedition watch with a load capacity of 600 bar has been part of the regular range since 2022. Is a little less enough? Then a Planet Ocean diver’s watch, which is water-resistant up to 600 m, will convince you.

James Bond’s favorite watch – Omega Diver

The chronicles reveal that Omega took a breather from diving watches to come up with a new collection in 1993. Anyone who has old models of the Omega Seamaster Automatic in mind will immediately disagree: it actually made its debut around 20 years earlier, when the Diver 120m was presented as the first chronograph suitable for underwater use. The brand built on this sensation, adding a chic look and giving the sports watch both a helium valve and 30-bar water resistance.

Since then, the Diver has enjoyed a large fan base, which means that there are many old and new versions with the wave pattern on the dial. Classic diving timepieces are just as much a part of the collection as chronographs, where even the most demanding secret agents will find what they are looking for.

James Bond has been committed to the diver’s watch since 1995 and received the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m as a new model: it inspires with a retro look and was seen in the 2021 agent movie “No Time to Die”.

An Omega Seamaster model overview that covers all the old variants…

…would be endless. If you scroll through the “Vintage Museum” on the brand’s website, you won’t believe your eyes. There are so many old models that even the manufacturer can only sketch some of them. To date, more than 300 calibers have been installed in the diver’s watches. Omega regularly introduces a new model of the Seamaster Diver 300m. The same applies to the Aqua Terra. Diversity is a success factor for the Omega Seamaster, which applies to both old models and new releases. A model history that would fill thick books is the other side of the coin.

Der Beitrag Model history: Omega Seamaster old models until today erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

In 1927, the Oyster almost crossed the English Channel on the wrist of an enthusiastic swimmer. The waterproof timepiece was granted automatic self-winding in 1931, and as the Oyster Perpetual it caused a worldwide sensation. Since then, the myth has endured: Rolex is the benchmark when it comes to fascinating luxury watches.

Crucial for success stories – witty brand identity

Hans Wilsdorf knew what was important: First and foremost, wristwatches must provide accurate, uncomplicated and reliable time orientation. Additional functions that prove themselves in everyday use – such as a date display – are warmly welcomed. Elegant aesthetics were a pleasant side effect for the founder, but one that he did not leave completely to chance.

He skillfully established stylistic subtleties with recognition value that inspire the brand myth. The logo refers to an indispensable component and suggests that the timepieces see themselves as the crowning glory of the watchmaker’s craft. It also suggests that the accessories ennoble the wearer’s exquisite style.

Anyone who sees a watch with the day of the week written out automatically thinks of the Swiss brand and its legendary Day-Date. Under the brand name “Rolesor,” the manufacturer patented the perfect interplay of gold and stainless steel in watch design in 1933. Cosmograph Daytona, Datejust, GMT-Master or Submariner: to this day, the contrasting duet characterizes popular models in many watch families. It strengthens the Rolex myth just as much as any other brand-typical feature, which conveys: Those who think ahead are rewarded with success.

A few perennial favorites instead of many highlights

The brand’s history proves that it pays to pursue your goals with focus. Starting with the pure timepiece Oyster Perpetual, the Datejust was developed in 1945 to add plausible value with the date window. The robust Explorer debuted in 1953, the anti-magnetic Milgauss in 1954, and the Air-King in 1958: inspired by customers’ usage patterns, a number of functional watches joined the lineup in the brand’s early history.

Later, the established watch families were improved or docked with specialists, instead of adding new collections on a continuous basis. Families were only added selectively, such as the sporty Yacht-Master in 1992 and the cosmopolitan Sky-Dweller in 2012. The strategy is a smart one: almost every watch collection has become a legend because it has defied trends for decades and still shapes the brand’s range.

Real added value instead of fairytale pomp

Many luxury brands rely on dazzling status symbols with precious decor. The catch: fashion is fast-moving and the glamour of a jewelry watch fades before it can become a myth. Despite the whiz-bang start after its founding, Rolex opted for a pragmatic brand orientation and hit the mark.

Hans Wilsdorf was adept at finding out what functions working people, adventurers and athletes wanted. The brand’s own development department took the appropriate action – but not on its own. Real life was always understood as a meaningful testing ground and the target group as experts whose experience counted.

Scientists welcomed the fact that the Milgauss was not impressed by magnetic influences during many experiments. The Pan American airline signaled in the mid-1950s that pilots needed to keep track of two time zones during long-distance flights. In response, Rolex served up the GMT-Master. Advances in underwater expeditions spoke in favor of the Sea-Dweller, which by 1967 was water-resistant to a depth of 610 meters and equipped with a helium valve.

Since 1971, the Explorer II has ensured that research teams can distinguish day and night time without natural clues during caving and polar missions. The Sky-Dweller, with its GMT function and annual calendar, meets the needs of today’s business world. The examples make it clear: The myth surrounding the luxury brand is not constructed, but the result of a brand strategy that is close to reality.

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Time for everything except standstill – good basic idea, ingenious further development, boundless vision

The “Rolex” myth is not a passing phenomenon, but has endured for decades. Because the brand does not rest on its success stories, but thinks them logically further. In 1927, it was like a functional revolution that the Oyster was waterproof. Preprogrammed was the desire to wear the sports watches not only for swimming, but also for diving. After all, it is vital to keep an eye on the time under water without any problems.

Rolex ensured water resistance to a depth of 100 meters and readability without confusion so that the manufacture could present the first diving watches in 1953. Since then, the Submariner’s water resistance, bezel and dial design have been optimized several times.

In principle, a diver’s watch is suitable for sailing, but the solution is not optimal. The Yacht-Master therefore takes up the basic functional ideas to be prepared for the natural challenges on the ocean. However, it presents a more sensible bezel that can be used to record travel times during water sports.

Extreme missions foreshadow that the Sea-Dweller will not be up to future deep-sea expeditions. In keeping with the myth, Rolex proactively met the challenge and developed the Deepsea Challenge. They attached the professional diver’s watch to the grappling arm of the submersible James Cameron used to venture into the Mariana Trench in 2019. The enormously resistant timepiece was not impressed by the extreme forces acting on it at an ocean depth of 11,000 meters, making human life impossible so far. This also applies to free diving with professional equipment.

Motivating myth with some balm for the ego

Anyone who has not been interested in watch history so far may ask themselves at this point: What is the appeal of wearing the deep-sea expedition watch Deepsea or the pilot’s watch Air-King with its strange dial design, far from adventures? The answer is provided by the myth that drives Rolex itself: The daring watches inspire you to leave your personal comfort zone and explore your potential. After all, life becomes exciting from the point where you mentally allow the impossible or even dare to put it into practice.

Hand on heart: it’s tempting to wear a Cosmograph Daytona, with which racing driver and acting legend Paul Newman whizzed across the screen in the 1969 cult film Indianapolis. Just as good for the ego is the thought that the authentically designed Submariner signed the charming style of James Bond between 1962 and 1989. The nickname “Presidential Watch”, which is common for the Day-Date, speaks volumes. It is not surprising if you feel a little more confident on the business floor with the favorite model of famous politicians, stars and business bosses. This emotional myth is not embarrassing, but the quintessence of a brand philosophy that is both ambitious and human.

Image source:
Aritcle image | By hypo.physe – https://www.flickr.com/photos/hypophyse/4787808343/, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=121857327

Der Beitrag Myth Rolex erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Grandes Complications from Patek Philippe, Royal Oaks Offshore from Audemars Piguet or a limited edition Bing Bang from Hublot: Almost worthless for many people are the investment tips of discerning watch collectors, because they fail due to the financial possibilities. The good news: watches that retain their value can be affordable, and historical examples prove that it is precisely the beginner models that like to turn into precious rarities.

The secret of high-yield watches – a flair for the special and connections to the good fairy

In 1963 Rolex launched a chronograph with a link to racing, which could not keep up with the highlights of the Geneva luxury brand at the time. The usual sales price of around 200 US dollars, which would correspond to around 2,000 euros today, was therefore moderate. Daytona sports watches caused a sensation in 2017 when a vintage example changed hands for $17 million.

Part of the reason for the record price was that it was an heirloom of Paul Newman, the legendary actor who was an avid racing driver and went all out as the main actor in the 1969 motorsport drama film “Winning” on the Indianapolis circuit. The icing on the cake for collectors with the right nose: Those who opted for the underestimated and therefore cheap sports watch early on can look forward to a value of up to 500,000 euros today. Of course, this is an exception that is more than stable in value, but Rolex, Omega and Co. still offer watches from time to time that watch investors enthusiastically add to the list. And of course there are always models that you own because a good nose already gave an idea of the surprise coup special increase in value.

Safe bet – design classics from Rolex

The story makes it clear how many factors beyond design, workmanship and technology ensure that a luxury watch not only retains its value, but also generates lucrative returns. “Waterproof” forecasts would be dubious as to which brand new model will impress with its increase in value in the future. What is clear, however, is that the classics from Rolex, which tend to be simpler than ostentatious, have shone as watches of stable value for decades.

The catch: Waiting lists make it difficult to access the popular watch collections, which are brand new and expensive. It is therefore clever to look for a used time piece from a reputable specialist dealer. Documentation and presentation are just as important as excellent condition. If you get hold of an impeccable full set, a discreet evergreen from Rolex will also prove to be at least stable in value – for example the purist Oyster Perpetual 41.

Adventurers from Omega with an everlasting power of fascination

When it comes to a watch that will retain its value, Omega is regularly referred to. The traditional Swiss brand has always inspired people with its pioneering spirit – in advanced watch technology and the conquering of new spheres. It shapes the Seamaster diving icon as well as the Speedmaster, which was the first wristwatch in space and on the moon. Classically designed representatives of the legendary collections are regarded as watches that retain their value. The Diver 300M Chronograph or the Professional Moonwatch are good examples of this.

Is there a thirst for adventure, daring to invest in a watch? The Speedmaster owes its current popularity to the fact that NASA certified it as “moonworthy”. In the meantime, Omega has managed to have a professional watch qualified for Mars expeditions by the European Space Agency. For example, it takes into account that the days on the red planet are 39 minutes longer.

There is currently little interest in the Speedmaster Marstimer with a multifunction quartz movement when it comes to investing in watches that retain their value. However, the Titan visionary could become a lucrative star if the first manned flight to Mars succeeds. NASA expects this to happen in around 20 years.

TAG Heuer – traditionally open to new ideas

In the portfolio of the manufacturer based in Le-Chaux-de-Fonds, you will discover manufactory watches that are reminiscent of the masterpieces by Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe in terms of craftsmanship and price. At the same time, TAG Heuer has a heart for luxury watch fans with smaller wallets. These models are often bought to be worn all the time. Because of the unavoidable signs of wear, these everyday companions are basically not stable in value in the sense of an investment. If you think of the personal benefit and the emotional bond, the investment pays off several times over. If you reach for unusual novelties, the used time indicators can still turn out to be comparatively stable in value at some point.

TAG Heuer was one of the luxury brands that ventured into the field of quartz watches with digital displays – with the sobering realization that cheap manufacturers soon copied the spectacular innovations. They often languished in drawers after excessive use. They are now in demand as a vintage statement and fetch surprisingly high prices.

It is quite possible that with the Aquaracer Professional Solargraph, TAG Heuer not only has its finger on the pulse of the times, but also the taste of the future. The “sundial” made of durable titanium, water-resistant to a depth of 200 m, supplies itself with energy. In this way, it pays tribute to the increasing awareness of a sustainable lifestyle in a forward-looking and timelessly chic manner, which could one day inspire watch collectors or retro fans.

Award-winning and irresistibly beautiful – watch collections from Nomos Glashütte

Watches that retain their value are not only found in Switzerland, but also in Germany. Those who know the profession are just as aware of this as they are of the long watchmaking tradition in Glashütte. The location was chosen by the manufacturer Nomos, which – like Hublot – is comparatively young. In contrast to the luxury brand based in Nyon, the East German company scores with a fantastic price-performance ratio.

When it was launched in 1992, the Tangente wristwatches did not receive the feedback they deserved for their design and watch technology. Nevertheless, they turned out to be watches of stable value. In the meantime, three times the original purchase price is paid for well-groomed debutantes. Experience shows that award-winning models can also increase in value.

This puts the spotlight on the Tangente Neomatik in platinum grey, which won the iF Award 2023 for its remarkably simple and flat design. In theory, the award winner has the best chance of distinguishing itself as a watch with stable value. In practice, one can hardly resist the temptation to take the modern beauty of Nomos Glashütte out of the leather case and admire it on the wrist every day.

Precious for life across generations – Frederique Constant

Cool calculators see the value-stable watch as an attractive alternative to the bank account, in order to build up reserves with as few losses as possible. Anyone who finds timepieces for the wrist to be practical above all will measure their value in terms of functionality and aesthetics, which are attractive in the long term. Frederique Constant scores on needs without expecting big investments.

Time, date, moon phase: the timelessly elegant Classic Heart Beat Moonphase men’s watches are informative. This information does not lose its value even in the advanced digital age – especially when it is displayed without resource expenditure thanks to the mechanical movement with automatic winding. Long-lasting workmanship is important to Frederique Constant. Nothing stands in the way of the grandson’s wish to wear the heirloom enthusiastically.

Der Beitrag Watches stable in value erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Stepping down after 30 years at the helm

Large corporations dominate the Swiss watch industry with an overwhelming superiority. Sometimes it feels like the most powerful players – Swatch Group, Richemont and LVMH – dominate the entire industry. The face of probably the most prominent exception has been one of the most influential women in Swiss industry for 30 years: Jasmine Audemars. Her retirement as Chairman of the Board of Directors, which will officially take place on November 11, 2022, marks a turning point in the nearly 150-year history of the high-end manufacture. From the very beginning in 1875, the company was owned by the two founding families, Piguet and Audemars, who passed on their leadership roles to the next generation as a matter of course.

In 1992, Jasmine Audemars took over the board of directors from her father Jacques-Louis Audemars, who brought the independent manufacturer the greatest success in the company’s history with the bold enforcement of the Royal Oak. The “grande dame of the Swiss watch industry,” as the press dubs the now 80-year-old and places her in the ranks of industry icons such as Jean-Claude Biver and Georges Kern, quickly developed into a resolute, forward-looking boss of the great house. The difference to her predecessors: Jasmine Audemars has no descendants.

From journalist to watch icon

In return, the passionate watchmaking personality, for whom the financial health and independence of her brand has always been a matter close to her heart, looks back on an impressive career. After studying social and economic history in Geneva, which gave her a close connection with the cosmopolitan Rhone metropolis that continues to this day, she worked at the daily newspaper Journal de Genève, gaining deep insights into the world of international trade relations. Knowledge that was to prove invaluable in her later management of the Group.

Jasmine Audemars devotes almost 25 years of her life to journalism and rises to the top of her daily newspaper in the 1980s. At this point, she becomes Switzerland’s first female editor-in-chief and loves her job more than anything, despite the daily pressures and the fact that editors-in-chief don’t just have friends in the world. Making decisions, meeting exciting people, learning from daily mistakes – while her father puts the manufactory on a previously unattained track to success, Jasmine pursues her own career.

The fact that she experienced an abrupt change of scene in 1992 and took over the president’s seat from Audemars Piguet did not bother her successor. On the contrary: the then 50-year-old identifies (to this day) 100 percent with her family’s watchmaking tradition, takes over the chairmanship with the same naturalness as her predecessors and is not afraid of the new task. The first big bang came just one year after she took the helm: in 1993, the brawny Royal Oak Offshore was launched, which over the next three decades became a huge success alongside the regular Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

Patience, discipline and responsibility

The fact that the businesswoman faces her challenges with patient composure is to pay off. In the midst of the 2008 financial crisis, the company’s healthy financial position made it possible to build a new manufactory to urgently expand capacity. And even in the second half of the 2010s, when many watch brands are struggling with falling sales, the manufacturer under Jasmine Audemars continues its success story without a break. From her journalistic work, the watch president is very familiar with international business and knows the benefits of good diversification. While other companies are expanding massively in China, the strategic leader is focusing on solid sales on all continents.

Like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore and other timepieces from the high-end brand, Jasmine is an exciting character with rough edges. As contradictory as the balance in the watch industry between the preservation of historical values and constant further development may seem, the impressions one gains from talking to the elegantly dressed businesswoman are equally contrasting. On the one hand passionate, enthusiastic about her profession and with sparkling eyes as soon as she is asked about her journalistic time, on the other calm, observant and above all disciplined. Jasmine Audemars considers discipline a luxury and punctuality a matter of course in her line of work.

Watch personality with own convictions

A watch representative who appears unpunctual? Not conceivable for the self-confident lady. In other respects, too, the outgoing mistress of Royal Oak and Co. is a woman with clear visions, who can answer complex questions briefly and questions things instead of simply accepting them. Smartwatches, for example, are not rejected per se by the grande dame of mechanical watchmaking, but she regards them as an interesting line of business alongside traditional watches, although they do not come close to the emotional impact of a genuine automatic movement. She places particular emphasis on local responsibility, stressing that many jobs and family histories depend on the well-being of the world-famous company, especially in its hometown of Le Brassus. And on the uncompromising quality of the top brand, which is not up for discussion for Jasmine Audemars.

The successor: brief portrait of Alessandro Bogliolo

Whether her successor will lead Audemars Piguet with the same aplomb remains to be seen. In any case, Alessandro Bogliolo’s CV sounds promising: the 57-year-old Italian, who lives in New York, was CEO of Tiffany & Co. from 2017 to 2021, after 16 years as CEO of the Italian fashion brand Diesel. This followed various managerial positions at Bulgari in the U.S., Singapore and Italy. In any case, Bogliolo does not lack experience in the luxury industry to follow in the big footsteps of his predecessor.

However, the previous era of the last watchmaker owned by the founding families does not end completely. After Jasmine’s departure, there will still be a leading family member in the company, 63-year-old Olivier Audemars, who took over the post of Vice Chairman of the Board of Directors from his aunt Paulette Piguet in 1997 and is a great-grandson of the second founder of the company, Edward Auguste Piguet.
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Image sources:

Title photo:
By Rama – Own work, CC BY-SA 2.0 fr, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1563549
Portrait Jules Audemars:
By Alexaube – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=108993844
Portrait Edward Piguet:
By Alexaube – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=108993980

Der Beitrag Watch personalities: Jasmine Audemars looks back on a great career erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

He’s successful, likes status symbols and has no idea about what he wears on his wrist: The stereotypical Rolex owner. But a closer look at the world of wearer types reveals a huge variety from passionate watch lovers to Hollywood superstars, big politicians and world-class athletes. We take aim at the target groups of the most famous Swiss watch brand and answer the crucial question: “Who wears Rolex?”

Status is not everything: The different types of carriers

No one can deny it: Due to its big name and enormous recognition, Rolex watches are purchased by more buyers with prestige intentions, in percentage terms, than other watch brands. Those who want to express their financial success and aspiration to greater goals could hardly choose a more powerful symbol than the five-pointed crown on their wrist. Another, also considerable, part of enthusiasts consists of enthusiasts fascinated by the technical milestones, cultural influence and timeless designs of the top Geneva brand. In extreme cases, we are dealing with downright nerds who know every single reference from the company history of the manufacturer founded in 1905. In the face of these two sample images of the Rolex owner, it is often forgotten that above all the choice of watch model has a certain explanatory power about the type of wearer.

Which watch prefers which wearer?

We all know that 99 percent of the time, a Submariner is not worn by divers, an Explorer is not worn by mountaineers, and a Cosmograph Daytona is not worn by race car drivers. But even the “real” types of wearers – from bankers to scientists – vary widely by watch type. The Submariner, for example, is increasingly worn by people who have always dreamed of the ideal Rolex on their own wrist and appreciate robustness.

The same applies to proud Oyster Perpetual or Datejust watches or their owners, who, unlike Diver customers, prefer a particularly classic, elegant appearance and are often looking for a relatively affordable entry into the Rolex world. The Air-King also provides the latter to any wearer, but differentiates itself from the aforementioned bestsellers through its exotic factor and aviation history. So, as in the case of the Milgauss, there are many technology enthusiasts among the Air King customers. The same is true of the Explorer, which attracts enthusiasts with a passion for the outdoors and a love of nature. The Cosmograph Daytona is a different story: Its racing history makes the chronograph a favorite of all men with gasoline in their blood, but it also serves representative purposes with prestige factor first class.

Great figures of history: Rolex wearers in politics

Keyword representative: A look back into the 20th century reveals an enormous spread of crowned watches in the highest circles of politics. Not only Che Guevara and Fidel Castro, who turned a socialist eye when purchasing their GMT-Master and other models, but also French presidents Chirac and Sarkozy preferred the top Geneva brand. And who wears Rolex from German politics? Reading names like Konrad Adenauer, Ludwig Erhard, Joschka Fischer and Christian Lindner, one can see a cross-party popularity. John F. Kennedy achieved particular fame as a Rolex wearer, whose Day-Date was a gift from Marilyn Monroe, including a personal engraving. Thus, the Day-Date achieved the status of a “President” before officially receiving this epithet due to its popularity with US presidents. Not only Kennedy’s predecessor Eisenhower and successor Johnson, but also Ronald Reagan, Barack Obama, Donald Trump and Joe Biden were often photographed with the five-pointed crown on their wrists and were convinced wearers.

The top tier in Hollywood?

The world of celebrities in film and music is richly filled with convinced Rolex wearers. In addition to Bond actor Daniel Craig (Bond currently wears Omega watches), who owns several models from the luxury manufacturer ranging from Datejust to Cosmograph Daytona, action film actor Jason Statham also relies on the robustness of the Geneva timepieces and cultivates a particular fascination for vintage models.

Another Rolex enthusiast is Robert Downey Jr., who owns a green Submariner “Hulk,” among other watches. And who wears Rolex among the absolute top earners in the film industry? Not only Will Smith, who owns a diverse range from a “modest” Submariner in stainless steel to the ostentatious Sky-Dweller in Everose gold, but also Mark Wahlberg appreciates all metals of the watch manufacturer. He is often spotted wearing stainless steel versions of the Daytona, but is happy to pull out the more valuable metal versions of the chronograph from his collection when needed – from the platinum reference 116576TBR to the white gold 116509, the former singer’s collection is confidently positioned. Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, the highest-earning actor of 2020 with 87.5 million euros, is also a wearer and has fulfilled childhood dreams with his first Swiss watch.

Sporty wearers from Pelé to Tiger Woods

In the sports world, tennis players and golfers in particular are closely associated with the Rolex brand. First and foremost, Roger Federer, the Swiss luxury manufacturer’s iconic brand ambassador, wears everything from the simple Oyster Perpetual to the Daytona, but Ana Ivanovic and Maria Sharapova also love the crown on the dial. The same goes for golf legends Tiger Woods, Bernhard Langer and Martin Kaymer. Arguably the greatest basketball player of all time, Michael Jordan, maintained a lifelong relationship with the brand, as did the brightest star in the soccer sky, Pelé. David Beckham, Karl-Heinz Rummenigge and Oliver Kahn have also declared themselves to be convinced wearers of the famous Swiss watch brand. We find it impressive how many sports some of the biggest luminaries rely on Rolex and could continue the list forever – from ex-Formula 1 driver Mark Webber to ski racing legend Lindsey Vonn, the sheer number of celebrity brand followers is staggering.

Rihanna, Miley Cyrus, Ellen DeGeneres: Famous wearers

If we turn our focus to the ladies’ world, we can by no means see a reduced popularity of the company founded by Hans Wilsdorf. While Rihanna recently showed herself on Instagram wearing the exotic Rolex King Midas designed in the 1960s by watch designer icon Gerald Genta, Miley Cyrus is fascinated by bright colors and wears a gold Cosmograph Daytona with gemstone trim in rainbow colors. The ultimate queen, however, is Ellen DeGeneres: The famous U.S. show host loves the Daytona above all else, but also likes to reach for vintage rarities in the six-figure price range.

The brand is also coveted among female Hollywood stars: in addition to Reese Witherspoon and Jennifer Aniston, who each own yellow gold models of the Day-Date, Sofía Vergara, who, like Ellen DeGeneres, fancies the Daytona, is one of the most prominent Rolex wearers in the international film world.

Der Beitrag Who wears Rolex? erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

The influential Munich watch expert, collector and author Christian Pfeiffer-Belli passed away on December 9, 2021. Made famous as editor-in-chief of the magazines “Alte Uhren” and “Klassik Uhren,” he shaped the world of timepieces since the 1970s with unparalleled knowledge and more than 50 specialized books. Companions describe Pfeiffer-Belli as a helpful and lovable person who knew a competent answer to every watch question.

Allies of the watchmaking world: Pfeiffer-Belli and Gisbert L. Brunner

In the early years of his career, Pfeiffer-Belli’s path intersected with that of Gisbert L. Brunner, who today probably is Germany’s most influential watch journalist. The two luminaries of chronometric passion met in 1978, when Brunner purchased a pendulum clock at the Auer Dult art and antiques market in Munich. Driven by a hunger for knowledge about his valuable piece, he became aware of Christian Pfeiffer-Belli through a friend, who liked to call himself “CBP” and at that time published a new book – the “Klaus Erbrich Präzisionspendeluhren” (Klaus Erbrich Precision Pendulum Clocks) in the Munich Callwey publishing house. It should be noted that there were no horological constructions about which the clock specialist did not have spectacular knowledge. No sooner had he called than he was standing at Brunner’s door, showing great interest in the pendulum clock. The foundation stone for an extraordinary watchmaking friendship had been set.

Competition of watch collectors

If the passion for ticking mechanics runs deep, every watch lover will one day turn into a collector. Brunner, a law graduate, was particularly diligent and started a collection in the 1960s that grew to more than 800 pieces during the 1970s. This must have impressed Christian Pfeiffer-Belli – who himself was an avid watch collector. Above all, the subject of wristwatches bonded the two and sparked a friendly competition between the collectors. This “battle” was rather fought with each other than against each other; in one day, the two watch connoisseurs together purchased half of all the watches in a store.

“Classic Watches”: Pfeiffer-Belli’s masterpiece

It was also Pfeiffer-Belli who convinced the lawyer Brunner to write his first article on wristwatches in 1981. The work appeared in the magazine “Alte Uhren,” a trade journal for historical timepieces launched by CPB in 1978. As editor-in-chief, the watch connoisseur left his mark on the magazine for more than 40 years, which was taken over by the Ebner publishing house in 1994 and renamed “Klassik Uhren”. Until it was discontinued in 2020, the bi-monthly magazine was the only one in the German-speaking world to focus explicitly on older timepieces.

Today, the magazines, in which articles by Pfeiffer-Belli’s companion Gisbert L. Brunner appeared again and again during their decades-long success story, are cult. Flipping through the magazine, one finds a literary treasure trove of CBP and selected authors who are among the best in the world in their subfields. Brands, models, complications – if you want to learn first-hand about timepieces and are looking for information that is not available on every Internet site, you should pick up one or two “Klassik Uhren”.

Book projects for eternity

Together with Brunner, Christian Pfeiffer-Belli realized dozens of important book projects over a period of 40 years. In particular, the work ” Armbanduhren” (“Wristwatches”) (Callwey), first published in 1983 and later expanded several times, brought the befriended connoisseurs great success, along with other books. More recently, the 500-page “The Watch Book” (teNeues publishing house) is considered one of the most important watch books and was created – like the earlier works – by Brunner and Pfeiffer-Belli in a familiar division of labor: Brunner produced the texts, CPB the pictures. The same applies to the popular Watch Book Rolex (teNeues), to which Pfeiffer-Belli contributed important images. In addition, the creative watch expert initiated significant brand books on Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, the latter work having a special history.

The story takes place in Mumbai in 1990. CPB and Brunner, in search of new information about the Audemars Piguet book, are walking through a cemetery and are threatened by a group of men with knives to hand over their hidden money. The duo manages a narrow escape. Back at the hotel, they celebrate their good fortune with champagne and become even closer.

Central head at Ebner Publishing House

It should also be mentioned that, in addition to “Klassik Uhren,” Christian Pfeiffer-Belli provided a number of other Ebner publishing house magazines with his knowledge. In addition to “Chronos,” “Uhren-Magazin,” of which CPB was editor for several years, also benefited from the expert’s knowledge. Pfeiffer-Belli was extremely popular among the editors of these magazines as well as the online magazine watchtime.net and used his experience well beyond retirement age to provide colleagues in need of help with pictures, books and manuscripts on all topics. A watch specialist with heart and willingness to help, who despite 20 years of illness still put all his energy into his horological passion at the age of 80. CPB was no ordinary watch author; he had a mission: to collect vast amounts of specialized knowledge and make it available to enthusiasts in an understandable form.

A work that does not fade

That the respected connoisseur died on December 9, 2021, at the age of 81, saddens the watchmaking world. Probably no obituary is accurate enough to adequately reflect Pfeiffer-Belli’s work and character. His works, on the other hand, are: With decades of work, the exceptional specialist has compiled an imperishable and such a rich fund of watch knowledge in magazines and books that whole generations of enthusiasts and authors will still benefit from him. The master is gone, but his work remains. May CPB be remembered by the watch world for a long time to come.

Der Beitrag Christian Pfeiffer-Belli erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.