And few objects express this shift as perfectly as the mechanical watch.

A Subtle Shift in Meaning

Luxury is no longer about being seen — it’s about being understood.

A clean Rolex Oyster Perpetual or a refined Grand Seiko doesn’t demand attention.
It rewards those who notice.

True luxury today is recognition without display.

The Aesthetic of Restraint

Quiet luxury is built on details:

• Case sizes: 36–39 mm
• Colors: neutral, refined tones
• Dials: minimal, balanced
• Materials: steel, titanium, precious metals — without excess

It’s not about complexity.
It’s about clarity.

Who Wears It

This style belongs to those who no longer need validation.

• Collectors with confidence
• Professionals with presence
• Individuals with a clear sense of identity

Quiet luxury is not about standing out.
It’s about knowing who you are.

Why It’s Here to Stay

In a world of constant noise, subtlety becomes powerful.

Mechanical watches fit this shift perfectly:
they last, they matter, they carry meaning.

The Power of the Unspoken

The strongest statement is often the quietest.
And true luxury never needs to explain itself.

Der Beitrag Quiet Luxury on the Wrist: Why Understatement Is the New Power erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

The Psychology of Wearing a Watch – Status, Statement, or Companion?

Why do people still wear mechanical watches when phones track time more precisely?

Status Symbol

For some, a watch signals achievement and confidence.
A Rolex Datejust or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak communicates stability, style, and a personal journey.

Statement Piece

Others express their personality with their watch.
A Hublot Classic Fusion represents modern boldness and progressive design, while a Longines DolceVita embodies timeless elegance and cultivated sophistication.

Companion

Many choose a watch like a lifelong partner.
The Omega Speedmaster embodies adventure and vision – and often stays on the wrist for decades.

A watch is not an object; it’s an extension of identity.

Personalities and Their Watches – Portraits in Miniature

The Collector – “Time as History”

He seeks stories, patina, authenticity.
His choices: Rolex Submariner, Patek Philippe Calatrava
His motivation: heritage, rarity, emotion.

The Artist – “Design as Language”

She values shape, colour, mood.
Her choices: Nomos Glashütte Metro, Junghans Max Bill
Her motivation: self-expression.

The Entrepreneur – “Clarity & Purpose”

He needs reliability and symbolism.
His choices: Tudor Black Bay 58, Grand Seiko Heritage
His motivation: precision, focus, understatement.

The Athlete – “Performance on the Wrist”

Strong, functional, dynamic.
His choices: Omega Seamaster Diver, TAG Heuer Monaco
His motivation: power & resilience.

The “Life Watch” – Why One Model Stays Forever

Most enthusiasts have one watch they never sell – and never want to.

Why?

• milestones

• identity

• emotional symbolism

• reliability

• a bond that deepens over time

Whether it’s a Tudor Ranger, Rolex Explorer, or Hublot Classic Fusions, some watches become part of the wearer’s story.

Watches Don’t Just Tell Time — They Tell Stories

A watch is one of the few objects that can grow with its wearer. It captures memories, reveals character, and expresses identity.

In a world that changes fast, a mechanical watch offers something profoundly human: emotional depth, connection, and the luxury of meaning.

Der Beitrag The Watch and Its Wearer: What Timepieces Reveal About Personality erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Futuristic marvels: The avant-garde of innovation – Breitling Endurance Pro

Immerse yourself in the world of the avant-garde with the Breitling Endurance Pro, a true avant-garde of innovation. Witness the meticulous craftsmanship and technological prowess that Breitling has seamlessly incorporated into this exceptional watch. The Endurance Pro is not just a timekeeping accessory. It is also a testament to Breitling’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking. This model is an interplay of cutting-edge technology and sporty aesthetics that you will discover as you explore its multiple functions. Breitling’s dedication to precision engineering is evident in every detail. From the lightweight yet robust materials to the advanced mechanisms that power this masterpiece. The watch is not only a reliable timepiece, but also a bold and distinctive statement.

Sustainable chic: on the way to environmentally conscious fashion with the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

Embark on a journey in sustainable style. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight traverses the waters of eco-friendly fashion with elegance. Immerse yourself in the timeless appeal of this timepiece. Tudor demonstrates its commitment to ethical craftsmanship without compromising on sophistication. Discover the deep blue hues of sustainability in the landscape of 2024 watch trends with this remarkable addition to Haute Horlogerie.

Vintage renaissance: nostalgia meets modernity

The current trend in watchmaking is a remarkable revival of timepieces. Inspired by old times and embodying the essence of timeless elegance, transcending eras and exuding a touch of nostalgia. Among these pieces of watchmaking jewelry is the Omega Seamaster 300, a prime example of a classic design that pays homage to the original from 1957. This timepiece, steeped in history, is not only a testament to Omega’s enduring heritage. It is also a wearable work of art that weaves together the threads of the past and the present.

The Omega Seamaster 300, with its mid-20th century design features, offers watch lovers a journey through time. Every detail, from the elegantly proportioned case to the vintage-inspired dial, has been meticulously crafted to evoke the bygone era of horological excellence. This attention to historical authenticity not only sets the Seamaster 300 apart from other watches, but also makes it a timepiece that is not only worn, but also treasured as a relic from another era.

What makes the Omega Seamaster 300 exceptional is its seamless fusion of vintage charm and modern technology. Beneath the classic exterior lies a powerhouse of cutting-edge horological advances, combining the best of both worlds for discerning individuals looking for a watch that not only tells the time with precision, but also embodies the allure of the past. It becomes a bridge between two worlds, a bridge where the craftsmanship of yesteryear meets the technological achievements of today.

Avant-garde opulence: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake – ethereal elegance in every flake

Discover ethereal elegance with the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake, a timepiece that embodies avant-garde opulence. Grand Seiko’s meticulous craftsmanship and unique design redefine luxury while creating a horological masterpiece that captures the essence of haute couture watches for 2024.

Minimalist elegance: Hublot Classic Fusion – bold, understated haute horlogerie

Finally, experience a new dimension of understated boldness with the Hublot Classic Fusion, a timepiece of minimalist elegance. Hublot’s refined lines and innovative design redefine the subtleties of minimalism, presenting a horological masterpiece that effortlessly stands out in the world of haute couture watches.

The evolution of timepieces in 2024

As we navigate the corridors of 2024, the world of watches beckons with a variety of styles, each telling a unique story of innovation, sustainability and timeless elegance. Whether you’re drawn to high-tech marvels, ethically crafted timepieces, vintage classics or avant-garde luxury, this year’s watch trends promise a stylistic journey that goes beyond simply telling the time. Embrace the revolution on your wrist and adorn your arm with a timepiece that not only tells the time, but also tells your story in the language of haute horlogerie.

Der Beitrag Watch trends 2024 erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

There are plenty of expensive watch brands around the world. In top 10 rankings, the order changes depending on the comparison criterion. However, the top ranks are often occupied by the same manufacturers with many similarities: They love visionary ideas as much as traditional watchmaking craftsmanship and are mostly based in Switzerland.

Rolex – popular status symbol

When it comes to prestigious luxury, Rolex is intuitively accorded the top position in the list of watch brands. This is true even for people who neither know nor can identify with exclusive timepieces. This unparalleled popularity is based on the mix of tasteful aesthetics and practical added value to which the Geneva-based luxury brand has been committed since its entry in the commercial register in 1913.

Sometimes it took a Rolex newcomer to win hearts – for example, the stainless steel Daytona chronograph. It aroused little enthusiasm when it debuted in 1963 and was sold rather cheaply. Nowadays, it is among the models of the top 10 watch brands that are enormously popular. This was helped by an original by Paul Newman, which they auctioned off for around 16 million euros in 2017.

Avant-garde bestsellers from Le Brassus – Audemars Piguet

Soon after its foundation in 1875, Audemars Piguet was among the best watch brands, appreciated for masterpieces with precious decorations made of precious metals and stones. But the breakthrough came with the opposite: in 1972, the Royal Oak was among the first luxury watches with a decidedly sporty design: as revolutionary as the stainless steel manufacturing was the octagonal bezel with the same number of screws saucily seeking the limelight.

When it comes to expensive watch brands, Audemars Piguet is represented in the top 10 because the casual Royal Oak made design history. The company founded by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward August Piguet is one of those watch labels whose luxury character is not obvious to many laymen. It is precisely this underlying exclusivity that appeals to many watch lovers.

Omega – the heavenly star among the top 10 watch labels

When adventurous people are asked to name expensive watch brands for the top 10 ranking, Omega lands far in front. Since the registration of the brand name in 1894, the timepieces have been appreciated for their technical sophistication. Early on, the manufacturer impressed with records related to precision. These advances gave the Masterpieces starring roles in expeditions that do not forgive any inaccuracies or material weaknesses.

For the Speedmaster Professional alone, selected by NASA for the first lunar expeditions, Omega has earned a regular place among the top 10 watch brands. Although other brand collections are just as noteworthy, the Moonwatch’s fan base is particularly large.

First choice of the French Emperor – Breguet

Napoleon Bonaparte treated himself to three pocket watches from the repertoire of the Breguet manufacture. Other expensive watch brands in the top 10 charts are green with envy at this vita. More significant than the celebrity clientele for watch lovers are the groundbreaking ideas with which Abraham Louis Breguet paved the way to the first functional wristwatch between 1780 and 1810.

Breguet hairspring, pare-chute shock protection or filigree hand with a circle at the tip: the inventions of the talented watchmaker still characterize handmade masterpieces from Breguet and other luxury brands. The sympathetic philosophy of the watch manufacture: it wants to preserve the time and be ahead of it – for example, with the Tradition collection, which invites the study of the movement on both sides.

Zenith – Top 10 timepieces with pioneering movements

If the focus is on the incessant pursuit of innovation, Zenith has to be counted among the top 10 watch brands. Ultra-flat, high-frequency, or accurate to a hundredth of a second: the timepieces from Le Locle contain movements that amaze experts.

Zenith achieved an international breakthrough in 1969 with a world first: the first automatic chronograph movement. In the meantime, high-frequency movements are a matter of course at the Swiss chronograph professional, which generally ranks among the best watch labels.

Top 10 jewelry watch design company – Chopard

Expensive watch brands in the top 10 league with jewelry aesthetics to fall in love with: If that’s what you’re looking for, Chopard is the place to go. Founded in 1860, the brand offers high-quality men’s watches, but is on top form when it comes to creating enchanting women’s watches.

The Happy Diamonds collection lives up to its name: from discreet to expressive, sparkling diamonds characterize the playfully designed timepieces. Chopard is one of the watch brands that interpret luxury in a passionate and diverse way. Necklaces or rings to match the cocktail watch? The noble brand fulfills such wishes with its multifaceted jewelry assortment.

Blancpain – underestimated top ten pioneer

Founded in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, the manufacture should actually be one of the universally known top 10 watch brands. First self-winding wristwatch (1926), diving watch pioneer Fifty Fathoms (1953) or the smallest automatic movement for ladies’ dress watches Ladybird (1956): Often, the ambitious manufacturer passed the finish line at the same time or just ahead of its competitors in terms of groundbreaking innovations. Thus, when it comes to major watch labels, Blancpain cannot be missing from the list. This was the view not only of oceanographer Jacques-Yves Cousteau, but also of Marilyn Monroe.

Horological extravaganza from Lake Geneva – Hublot

If you prefer fancy accessories and expensive watch brands, a top 10 rank is reserved for Hublot. Since its debut in 1980, the bold mix of materials has characterized the brand’s signature design, as has the watch shape, which resembles a porthole. In 2005, the manufacturer debuted the Big Bang chronograph, whose look pops – literally. That goes for the material contrast richness and the extroverted decor, which sometimes seems a touch over the top. Does your heart beat for purist timepieces? Then Hublot is probably not one of your personal top watch brands.

Breitling – high-flyer from the Bernese Jura

Léon Breitling was interested in measuring instruments that performed professional tasks in scientific, sporting and industrial scenarios. His manufacture, founded in 1884, served up swift advances in watchmaking technology that impressed a major pilots’ association. It recommended the Navitimer as a pilot’s watch. On land, underwater, or in the air, Breitling is among the top 10 watch brands valued for brilliant engineering and sophisticated functionality.

Patek Philippe – masterfully complicated or simply beautiful

Patek Philippe’s passion for complicated timepieces ensures that it regularly takes first place in top watch brand rankings. Handcrafted decorations, refined reversible cases and 20 complications, some of which can be enjoyed acoustically: One look at the watchmaking sensation, auctioned in 2019 for more than 30 million Swiss francs, is enough to understand its reputation. In the meantime, the Grandmaster Chime ennobles the brand assortment in a strictly limited edition.

As desirable as the complicated watches are uncomplicated evergreens – for example, the ultra-flat Ellipse. The elegant evening watches only display hours and minutes, because more information seems superfluous in the evening savoir-vivre. Since its founding in 1839, the manufacture has created fewer watches than other luxury brands market each year. That’s why Patek Philippe is irresistibly beautiful, but hard to come by.

Der Beitrag Top 10 watch brands erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

The dark side as a ray of hope – Omega “Dark Side of the Moon”

In the early 1960s, the U.S. president decided: We’ll conquer the most popular celestial body after sunset. NASA immediately started working on the project, looking for equipment that could meet the challenges of space. Omega’s Speedmaster won the race among wristwatches. A few years passed before the final mission, during which the Swiss timepiece was privately on board and, after official approval as a space wristwatch, was vigorously optimized.

The astronauts also had to approach their big goal in small steps. In December 1968, they flew around the moon for the first time and saw its far side. Omega dedicates the Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon” to this revolutionary expedition. In keeping with the event, its ceramic case is presented in black, joined by the strap. The dial design, which emphasizes impeccable readability, refers to the glorious history.

Dark Side of the Moon Sedna-Black

The conquest of the universe is not so much what the manufacture has in mind for the watch family, the first model of which debuted in 2014. Rather, Omega’s aim with the ceramic watches is to honor the courage of the Apollo 8 team and carry its pioneering spirit into the future. In addition, the Sedna Black version of the Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon” captures the mystical aspects of night and seemingly endless space. The Speedy model stays true to the black case of ceramic watches, but delights with its vintage aura. It is due to the matte gray dial and hands in the Sedna tone.

Bright white tribute to the moon and progress

In the summer of 1969, the spectacular Apollo 11 mission succeeded when the trio of astronauts landed on the moon and even disembarked. The images of the crew in their white spacesuits, who dared to take their first steps on another star, resemble a symbol of civilization. Up close and personal was the professional timepiece from Omega, which has since become known as the Professional Moonwatch.

The “White Side of the Moon” ceramic watches brilliantly stage the milestone in human history that has lost none of its radiance to this day. The strap made of leather is just as pure white as the bezel, case and dial made of ceramic. The nuance is joined by the hands made of 18-karat white gold and the tachymeter scale, which characterizes matte chrome nitride. This is an enormously hard special coating, which is valued for its excellent protection against abrasion, corrosion and wear.

First ceramic watch as Moonwatch

The first moon watch was made of state-of-the-art materials, but ceramics did not yet play a role. It still seems authentic that Omega brings the anti-magnetic material into play in the Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon” series. It scores with its advantageous combination of lightness and robustness. This also applies to fluctuating temperatures, high pressure, and impacting rays.

Today, high-performance ceramics are often used in aerospace applications. The industrial material would probably also have characterized the legendary Moonwatch, but was not yet an issue in 1969. For about ten years now, the Swiss manufacture has been successfully using ceramic components in watch production. The technical advantages are exploited to the full, as are the aesthetic benefits of the material, which allows plenty of freedom in terms of color design. The “White Side of the Moon” ceramic watches are successful examples of this.

Shadowy sides with a happy ending – thanks to outstanding watchmaking technology

Everything went smoothly with the world-famous NASA moon expedition. In 1970, however, the crew came within a hair’s breadth of a catastrophe. After an explosion, the return had to be improvised as quickly as possible – without on-board electronics. Space fans may be reminded of this tightrope walk in the universe by the “Grey Side of the Moon,” which had a smooth ending. The Speedmaster (at that time still without ceramics) was in the spotlight: the engines had to be ignited with split-second precision in order to catch the right flight path and land safely. This was achieved with the precise clock, which suddenly became vital in the middle of space.

The event stokes curiosity about what movement characterizes the “Grey Side of the Moon” and its relatives today. The ceramic watches contain the caliber 9300 with Co-Axial escapement. It reduces friction and thus ensures precision over a long period of time. The excellence of the self-winding movement is also reflected in the free silicon balance spring and the two barrels, which are installed one after the other. The power reserve of the chronograph is 60 hours. The watchmaker’s art deserves some attention, which the transparent caseback gives to the inner workings.

Space watch with a piece of meteorite: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Co-Axial Chronograph 44,25mm

Speedmaster ceramic watches are about significant moments in space history. The design is allowed to be a bit more spectacular. If you share the opinion, the Moonwatch Co-Axial Chronograph with 44.25mm case and meteorite is a precision landing.

In this “Grey Side of the Moon” version, extraterrestrial rock actually shapes the dial. The rare material is elaborately processed to create a unique pattern. This makes each copy of the gray ceramic luxury watches unique. The fascinating aura is completed by accents of 18-karat gold. They adorn the hands and bezel in a shade that does not look glamorous, but inspires with retro charm.

Fascinating as the full moon: Speedmaster Moonwatch Moonphase Ceramic

Representatives of the Speedy were on board all six lunar missions. The history inspired the watchmaker to create a masterpiece that romantics can hardly resist. The dark blue color of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Moonphase Chronograph with a diameter of 44.25mm is reminiscent of a starry sky at night. It characterizes the bezel ring as well as the case and strap.

Wonderfully, the white gold indices and hands stand out against the dark background. The same goes for the integrated moon phase display. It ensures that you never miss an opportunity to admire the full moon. The luxury watch with ceramic case has earned as much attention as its source of inspiration. Absolutely appropriate, therefore, seems the stately 44.25-mm case that all Omega Speedmasters from the “Dark Side of the Moon” collection boast. It ensures that the moon watch does not go unnoticed on the wrist.

Der Beitrag Our Top 5 Omega Speedmaster Ceramic Watches erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Timepieces with the name suffix “chronometer” enjoy a high reputation, although the exact meaning of the term is not clear to everyone. In today’s article, we clarify the question of what distinguishes chronometer watches and present the most popular models from renowned top brands in different price ranges. You will also learn how three of the most important certificates differ and by which manufacturers they are used.

Chronometer: Definition and main certificates

One of the most common mistakes among watch novices is the confusion between chronometers and chronographs. While the chronograph is a complication (additional function) that enables time stopping in addition to the regular time display, the chronometer describes a precision watch that has received a certificate of chronometer testing from a neutral official institution. To obtain the latter, fine-tuning (regulation) of the time indicator in various positions and at varying temperatures is required. The focus of chronometer testing is whether the time indicator meets specified precision standards. Simply put, chronometer watches are proven to be particularly precise watches.

Timepieces can be awarded their coveted status by various inspection bodies. The most famous is called COSC (Contrôle officiel suisse des chronomètres), is used by most manufacturers and essentially tests whether a movement (still unassembled) has a rate deviation that falls below -4 and +6 seconds daily. More stringent is the METAS chronometer test, which is conducted by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology and tests fully assembled watches under demanding conditions. METAS chronometer watches must not deviate from perfect time by more than -5/+5 seconds per day. METAS cooperates closely with Omega, but in theory can be freely used by all brands. In contrast, Rolex‘s “Superlative Chronometer” title is reserved only for the brand’s own luxury watches, is additionally carried out after the completion of a successful COSC test, and requires a maximum deviation of -2/+2 seconds.

METAS: Omega’s precision watches

Launched by Omega in 2015 with the ambition of improving the precision standards of the COSC, the METAS certificate is one of the most prestigious awards in the watch world. Successful “examinees” are allowed to call themselves Master Chronometer watches, which comes with a high status, especially due to the certification of at least 15,000 Gauss magnetic resistance. Interestingly, every METAS movement has already successfully passed a COSC test beforehand. The new generation Speedmaster Moonwatch, launched in 2021, is among the most prominent bearers of the title: equipped with the hand-wound caliber 3861, it offers 50 hours of power reserve and uses a silicon hairspring to ensure long-term accuracy at the highest level.

Automatic chronometers can also be found en masse in Omega’s variety of models – from the robust Seamaster collections to the elegant De Ville. However, some models, such as the popular Speedmaster 38, “only” have a regular COSC certificate. By 2023, Omega aims to change this and call all of its models Master Chronometer watches. Other brands have also recognized the potential of METAS testing – since 2021, for example, Tudor has been awarding its Black Bay with the strict certificate.

Breitling: Each watch has a COSC certificate

Breitling, on the other hand, places its full trust in the proven reliability of the COSC test, which was introduced in 1973, and has been launching all its models as chronometer watches for years without exception. Whether it’s the aviation icon Navitimer, diving legend Superocean or compact ladies’ models like the Chronomat 32 – no flying B makes it to the wrist without an officially certified precision test. That’s especially important for Breitling newcomers to know, because the manufacturer differentiates strongly in price between manufacture movements like the popular B01 and purchased movements based on ETA. The additional price of around 2,000 to 3,000 euros, which has to be paid for the manufacture movement in collections like the Superocean Heritage, is therefore not paid for noticeably higher accuracy, but for 70 hours of power reserve, the complex column wheel mechanism and other technical highlights.

Legendary classics such as the Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 43, which already live up to the official distinction in the title and leave no doubt about their certified precision, enjoy the greatest popularity. Those who like it particularly imposing will make the right choice with the new Super Chronomat in the 44-millimeter format.

Rolex: Tighter in-house testing

Rolex’s automatic timekeepers are among the most rigorously tested watches in the industry. Since 2015, in parallel with the launch of the new generation of movements with a whopping 70-hour power reserve (see caliber 3255), the industry’s most famous luxury brand has been awarding the title of Superlative Chronometer to watches that have already successfully passed a COSC test and, after being encased, also pass its in-house testing, which requires extremely low rate deviations of no more than -2/+2 seconds. Power reserve, water resistance, automatic winding and other technical aspects must also meet the toughest requirements.

The prime example of certified horology is the current Submariner Ref. 124060 with caliber 3230, whose blue Parachrom hairspring is one of the central highlights of the modern generation of movements. The brand new Datejust Generation of 2022 (Ref. 126300) with the automatic chronometer caliber 3235 also demonstrates how the Geneva-based luxury brand lives up to its great name through technical excellence. The fact that the superlative timepieces are always accompanied by a COSC certificate creates double security for customers and the certainty that, despite high in-house standards, there is still an independent party involved.

Tag Heuer, Junghans and Co.: COSC as an upgrade

Breitling’s practice of differentiating in its product portfolio between chronometer watches and lower-priced alternatives without the certificate is widespread in the industry. Tag Heuer, for example, tends to ship its entry-level models without COSC testing, while higher-positioned editions have the official precision certificate. The automatic chronographs in the current Tag Heuer Carrera collection (e.g. Ref. CBN2A1A.FC6537) are among the most sought-after models in the brand’s portfolio, powered by the Heuer 02 manufacture movement and boasting a COSC certificate. The same goes for the Autavia Flyback, which performs the stopping, resetting and restarting of its chronograph function with a single push of a button. The entry-level Formula 1 collection also has a COSC certificate in its upscale versions, which can be awarded for quartz movements as well as for mechanical calibers.

The traditional German brand Junghans also gives buyers of its prominent Meister collection the choice between chronometer watches and regular timepieces. One of the most sought-after models among precision lovers is the Meister Ref. 027/4130.00, which combines silvered elegance in the dial with timeless shapes and an automatic movement including an exposed case back.

Der Beitrag The most popular chronometer watches erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Roman numerals to mark the hour indices are very popular, especially on classic watch models. However, the Roman 4 on watches often causes irritation when only 4 dashes appear instead of the IV. We have looked into the matter and have investigated an interesting piece of watch history for our readers.

Roman numerals stand for tradition and classic elegance

For the design of the indices on the dial of a watch, in the course of watch history, various options have become established, each of which has a different visual effect. The simplest variant are simple line or dot indices without further lettering. They are mainly found on watches with a decidedly simple and businesslike design and make the dial look particularly calm and uncluttered.

If the indices are labeled with Arabic numerals, this can appear modern, but also playful or nostalgic, depending on the font design used. In many cases, however, Arabic numerals are perceived as easy and clear to read because they are also used in everyday life and thus suit our visual habits. Roman numerals are more difficult for many people to read because they hardly play a role in everyday life today and are mainly found in historical documents, on inscriptions on monuments and buildings, or even on clock faces. The latter is mainly due to the fact that Roman numerals go particularly well with a classic, elegant design, such as is very popular for dress watches.

“IV” or 4 dashes: the Roman 4 on watches

If you take a closer look at a watch with Roman numerals, you might be surprised to see that the number 4 is not represented as IV, as you would expect, but by 4 dashes: IIII. Although there are also clocks with a “real” Roman four, but in about 90 percent of all cases, the 4 dashes can be seen in its place. It is a fact that this way of representation has grown historically and is not an invention of the present. It can be found not only on wristwatches, pocket watches or wall clocks, but also on tower clocks that are already several centuries old. A widespread explanation for this is that in Roman antiquity the letter I also had the function of today’s letter J and the V also served as a U at the same time.

In Latin inscriptions on older buildings or on grave monuments, there is still countless evidence of this today. The “real” Roman four could therefore also have been read as “JU”. This would have been an abbreviation for the name of the Roman god Jupiter, who in Roman mythology played a similar role as supreme god as the “father of the gods” Zeus in Greek mythology. To simply place his name abbreviation JU between the other, “ordinary” numbers on a dial would have been blasphemy and was therefore virtually forbidden by itself, according to the explanation often heard.

Alternatives to the Jupiter Thesis

As plausible as the reasoning may sound, there are some reasons to doubt the Jupiter thesis. One of the most important counter-arguments is that the worship of Jupiter hardly played a role after the decline of the Roman Empire. In addition, the subtraction notation, in which smaller digits written to the left of a larger digit are to be subtracted from the latter, only became established during the Middle Ages and is, moreover, hardly common in inscriptions.

Partly it is also argued that it is a tradition that goes back to early tower clocks. In these, the 4 lines were used, and this representation was later adopted again and again for reasons of tradition. However, counterexamples can also be found among early clocks.

Just a preference of the Sun King or more readable?

Another explanation assumes that Louis XIV of France, who became known as the Sun King, preferred the four-stroke notation and therefore insisted that it be used by watchmakers in his sphere of influence. However, it is equally possible that it was not an individual preference of the French monarch, but quite practical reasons for this solution.

On the one hand, there’s less danger of confusion with the VI, which is relatively close to the four on the dial. Especially on dials where the lower numerals are slanted or upside down, it’s certainly easier to tell the four and six apart at a glance if the Roman 4 on watches is not also composed of an I and a V. In any case, the tradition of the four-dashed Roman four has persisted in well-known watch brands to this day: You can see this on the Rolex Datejust 31 as well as on the Pearlmaster or Chopard’s LUC 1937 Classic.

Frugality or aesthetics: two other possible reasons

Other historians believe that the use of a four consisting of four strokes had mainly economic reasons. This is because in order to cast hour indices for a dial with IIII, the I must be cast twenty times, while four each of V and X are needed. It is therefore sufficient to make a single mold with four I and one each of V and X, and use them four times in succession to produce a complete set of indexes. This would not be possible with three I’s less and one V more, as would be necessary for the “correct” spelling of the four. Furthermore, aesthetic reasons for the IIII are also brought into the field.

Representatives of this thesis point out that a Roman 4 formed from four I’s on watches appears more symmetrical and balanced as a counterpart to the VIII on the left side. Which of the above theses is actually correct will probably never be clarified with one hundred percent certainty. Possibly, in different cases, different reasons were decisive. However, the topic remains a fascinating piece of watch history.

Der Beitrag Why the Roman four on watches is usually written with four dashes erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Noble stones ensure smooth operation

Even if, for the sake of simplicity, we often refer to stones only briefly, the stones used in watches are basically precious stones. They are used in watchmaking to make bearings. Therefore, they are also called bearing stones. On watches, the French terms pierres or rubis and the English term jewels are often used in the corresponding indications. The French word rubis stands for ruby and thus also indicates that the most frequently used bearing stone is ruby.

Depending on their shape and function, the bearing jewels in a wristwatch are also called cap jewels, hole jewels, pallet jewels, antifriction bearing jewels or ellipse.

The fact that the bearings in watches are not made of metal, but instead use ruby or other gemstone bearing jewels, has a special reason, because this significantly reduces friction and wear. This benefits the precision with which the movement works, as well as its longevity.

From natural gemstones to synthetic stock ruby

Gemstones were already valued in cultures of preancient times for their fascinating colors and radiance and are still popular today for a wide variety of jewelry and jewelry work.

Physically, however, their main common feature is not gloss or color, but their exceptional hardness.

The hardest gemstone is considered to be the diamond, closely followed by the corundum.

The jewels in watches are often made of corundum. In the past, natural stones were used, whereas today synthetic corundum is predominantly used. The term corundum comes from the Tamil language and describes a mineral from the class of oxides and hydroxides, which occurs relatively frequently in nature. There are different varieties, which differ in their coloring. These include the colorless leucosaphires, the strong red rubies, which owe their color to their chromium content, and the sapphires, which occur in all colors except red – although blue sapphires are the best known and are particularly popular as jewelry stones.

Although other corundums are also possible and are certainly used in practice, the best known and most common bearing stone is called ruby.

Since the end of the 19th century, it has been possible to produce corundum synthetically. Several processes are available for this purpose, of which, however, the so-called electrofusion process is by far the most economically important. It goes back to Ernst Moyat, a German chemist. In 1894, he succeeded for the first time in producing so-called electrocorundum, and shortly before the start of the First World War he was granted a patent for his process. In the course of the following decades, the industry developed high-grade corundum, of which white high-grade corundum is predominantly produced today.

The reasons for the increasing use of synthetic corundum in watchmaking were the rapidly growing demand for high-quality watches and the fact that synthetic corundum fulfilled the material requirements, especially in terms of strength and processing possibilities, just as well as their natural counterparts.

How are the jewels inserted in a wristwatch?

The jewels used in watches are either pressed into a movement plate or screwed into a gold setting – also known as a chaton – and then adjusted. They are sometimes called perforated jewels because of their perforations and, together with the metal pivots of the wheels of a watch movement, form sliding bearings. If there is a hemispherical depression in a perforated jewel without a cover, this is called an oil depression and is used to hold the watch oil used as a lubricant.

Stones for watch movements were developed as early as 1704 by Nicolas Fatio de Duillier, a Swiss mathematician. There are also stones in rolling bearings, for example in the ball bearings of the rotors of automatic watches. However, these are roller or spherical in shape and have no holes. The term bearing jewels is not used for these jewels. Another application for watch jewels is in escapements, where they serve as pallet stones or lever stones. This solution was developed by Thomas Mudge, who is credited with the invention of the lever escapement around 1757.

How many jewels does a wristwatch need?

High-quality mechanical wristwatches with manual winding require at least fifteen jewels, ten of which are hole jewels, two cap jewels for the balance, one lever jewel (ellipse), and two pallet jewels for the pallet lever.

As a general rule, the more complex the movement design, the greater the number of jewels required.

However, the number of jewels is not an indicator of the quality of the movement, but at best indicates the presence of complications. Nevertheless, many manufacturers of luxury watches state that 30 to 70 jewels have been installed in their watches. However, reputation reasons play a role here, which also explains the fact that the number of jewels is often mentioned on the dials and case backs of the watches.

Der Beitrag What does the number of jewels in the movement say about a wristwatch? erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Neon, denim, sneakers: the 80s shaped fashion and lifestyle in unforgettable ways. Today, many of the trends of that bold decade are back – especially in the world of watches. From bicolor to quartz, we show you the most popular watches of the ’80s, introduce their modern descendants, and explain which tastes the reborn retro watches are right for.

Which trends shaped watches of the 80s?

Bright colors, freaky designs and smooth yellow gold: decadence played a central role in the watch designs of the 80s. The decade was an era of urbanization, which gave many young people that urban prosperity that was to be expressed on the wrist. Probably the most defining manifestation of this exclusivity were bicolor designs, watches that combined two metals (typically gold and stainless steel). They are considered the ultimate style of the 80s and – against all expectations – are now back in fashion. A second, extremely drawing trend of the decade is large, in many cases chunky cases designed for maximum robustness, with a self-assured presence as a desired side effect.

Technically, the watches of the 80s display an exciting mix of quartz and automatic. Contrary to the 70s, when the quartz crisis reached its peak and mechanical timepieces were declared dead, the 80s brought us a slow return to traditional mechanics. Although the electric movement was still widely used due to its advantages – high precision at a low price – people gradually recognized the cultural value of mechanical watches. Suddenly, it was cool again to watch a balance ticking in the knowledge that, with good care, the mechanical companion would last for decades.

Rolex, Tudor, Omega: Bicolors are back

One of the most popular watches of the 1980s was undoubtedly the Rolex Datejust Two Tone, which was worn by pop stars and Wall Street bankers alike and is now fashionable again not despite, but precisely because of its absolute 1980s look. The difference: 40 years later, people prefer to combine the stainless steel with red gold instead of yellow gold. Otherwise, today’s Rolex Datejust Two Tone is in no way inferior to its predecessors: In addition to the characteristic fluted bezel and the large date magnifier, the sporty, elegant basic design has hardly changed over the decades. Those who order the modern Datejust and prefer a pure ’80s look should choose the yellow gold Ref. 126233 on the Jubilee strap, close their eyes, and imagine racing through Miami in a Ferrari Testarossa.

Sister brand Tudor is also currently extremely successful in reviving two-tone vintage watches, as evidenced by the Tudor Black Bay Heritage S&G (Ref. M79733N-0008). Without screaming for attention, the 41-millimeter Diver makes a strong statement for the ’80s lifestyle and offers an insane amount of watch for the money. In addition to (a bit of) 18-karat yellow gold, it brings to the wrist a chronometer-certified MT5612 manufacture movement with a 70-hour power reserve, complemented by 200-meter water resistance and historic trademarks like the Snowflake hour hand.

If you want to take the two-tone style more subtly than Rolex and the Black Bay Heritage S&G, we recommend the Omega Seamaster 300 Sedna Gold Bicolor (Ref. 210.22.42.20.01.002). In an elegant way, the iconic diver’s watch manages to combine its special reddish gold with black ceramic and a chic stainless steel case. Technical excellence with Co-Axial manufacture movement, 300 meters water resistance and a visible case back complete the Diver.

Chunky and robust: Retro watches in XXL design

For our next 80s trend, the prime example is not the luxurious Omega Seamaster 300 Sedna Gold Bicolor, but a Seiko Diver with legendary status: the Turtle. Although the deliberately chunky diver’s watch, whose case shape is reminiscent of a turtle shell, appeared as early as the ’60s, nowadays we associate its aesthetics more with the ’80s. Not understatement, but the clear display of robust, self-confident designs characterized the decade. Today, we find the latter especially in the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive collection: models like the popular Spring Drive with GMT function (Ref. SBGA229) combine world-renowned craftsmanship with chic design, but at over 44 millimeters in diameter, they speak a clear language: “I’m the boss here.” This is what watches of the 80s look like at their best.

What this Grand Seiko Diver and the other members of the Grand Seiko Sport collection Spring Drive manage to do, the Swiss have also mastered with flying colors. An excellent example of 80s design is the current Fortis Classic Cosmonauts Steel A.M. (Ref. F2140000): Since its appearance almost 40 years ago, the 42-millimeter model has spoken a crystal-clear language from a functional perspective. No attempts at aesthetic perfection, but rather large numerals, an easily readable tachymeter scale and ample luminous material characterize the no-nonsense look of the bolide. The Fortis Classic Cosmonauts Steel A.M. sees itself as a tool and unmistakably expresses this character with 80s self-confidence.

Electronic timekeeping: from Casio to the smartwatch

Some of the most popular watches of the 80s are electric and could not represent the decade more aptly than the Casio Collection Unisex Digital Wristwatch. Digital digits on the wrist appeared in the 70s, but found their widest distribution in the following decade and shaped the everyday life of an entire generation – from students to managers. To this day, the original vintage watches are available at reasonable prices; those who want additional functions and more modern designs will find contemporary alternatives in the various versions of the Casio Collection Unisex Digital Wristwatch. Our tip: If you want to combine two trademarks of watches from the 80s at once, you should order the digital Casio with a gold-plated case.

Today’s smartwatches like the Tag Heuer Connected also have their origins in the 1980s. Of course, there were no Internet-enabled computers on the wrist back then, but many manufacturers laid the foundation for their electronic watch development during the 1980s. Tag Heuer, for example, launched its Formula 1 collection in 1986 and hit the zeitgeist with bright colors, simple quartz movements, and lightweight plastic cases. The beefy design was no facade: the manufacturer gave a whopping 200 meters of water resistance to its entry-level model, which quickly rose to become one of the most popular watches of the 1980s. If you just want to experience the aesthetics of the ’80s on your wrist, but enjoy the technical advantages of the 21st century, the current Tag Heuer Connected is a smart choice: The smartwatch allows you to change the dial design on a whim.

Der Beitrag The most popular watches of the 80s and their descendants erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.