Professional applications were what the Geneva-based luxury brand had in mind when it introduced its first diving watches in 1953. Nowadays, those who are interested in them rarely plan daring underwater missions. The legendary watch family is simply popular – among collectors, investors and style-conscious men. The large circle of interested parties leads to bottlenecks and the question: How long are the waiting list and waiting time for the Rolex Submariner at the moment?

Tolerable waiting time for no-frills Diver icons

Rolex is notorious for not divulging internal information. This applies to differentiated production figures as well as the waiting time that one has to plan for when buying coveted models. If you want to get a rough idea, you have to rely on the experience of other watch lovers and insider tips from the official boutiques. Accordingly, for the simplest Rolex Submariner, the 2023 waiting time is at least three months, but can extend to half a year. Compared to other Rolex families, this is a moderate test of patience.

Stainless steel strap and case, diving bezel and dial in black, and striking indices that glow intensely in the dark: There are self-confessed fans for this purist, which does credit to the debut model. In general, the charming focus on the essentials is less in demand at the moment. Therefore, although each authorized dealer receives only a maximum of 20 pieces per year, the waiting time for the Rolex Submariner No Date is quite bearable.

Even if you’re not a regular customer, you can get the classic at list price within half a year. The same applies to the black-and-white stainless steel Divers with a day date, which first appeared in the range in 1966. For the matter-of-factly designed Rolex Submariner with Date, a waiting period of three to six months is bearable, considering that the legendary diving watches provide timeless pleasure. If you buy them to wear or collect.

Simple equation: exquisite taste = long waiting time

Absolutely reliable, robust, and waterproof: the practical needs of diving directed the watch design. A welcome side effect is the purist, casual look that always suits everyday sports watches. For all the love of the original 1953 design, a dash of individuality is enticing, and with the Rolex Submariner, it extends the wait to 2023 as well.

Black bezel and leaf are designed. The case and strap profess a yellow gold that seems more chic than glamorous. The contrasting design of reference 126618LN obviously appeals to many watch lovers. After all, a two-year waiting period is not unusual for this model of the Submariner family. Even more serenity is required when dreaming of the “cool smurf”. This aesthetic play on cool white gold and black and blue color duet was understood as a tribute to the 65th brand anniversary and has enriched the diving watch portfolio ever since.

The “Luxury Smurf” with the reference 126619LB is issued in smaller batches, which means that many concessionaires can only get hold of one copy per year for their clientele. Thus, one can consider oneself lucky if the waiting period for this Rolex Submariner Date is “only” three years.

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First moderate, then endless – unpredictable waiting times for Rolex watches

Anyone interested in luxury watches knows: there is no binding waiting list and the waiting time at Rolex can be long. The Submariner is no exception. Official retailers include customers in their lists of interested parties, provided the expressed enthusiasm for the desired watch seems genuine to them. If a specimen arrives at the store with the appropriate reference, the list is not worked through step by step. Many aspects influence the decision as to which person from the waiting list gets the chance to pay only the list price for the dream watch and when.

Besides the usual hurdles, sometimes trends and events affect the waiting time. This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Rolex Submariner. The wait may be longer in 2023 simply because there is more media coverage of the diver’s watch. So long cherished watch dreams come back to mind. The rerun of a cult movie, a watch auction with a breathtaking sale price, or the general color trend in accessories: many factors can suddenly make the waiting time for luxury wristwatches absurdly longer.

Sometimes the unattractive quintessence of such hype is that production of the coveted model is discontinued while one is still bobbing around on the list of interested parties. This was the experience of some watch collectors with the bright green Submariner “Hulk”, which debuted in 2010 and disappeared from the official catalog a decade later.

Strategy for flexible watch fans: predecessor models instead of waiting lists

Rolex is known for presenting only a few design variants of a watch family and sticking to them for a long time. The comparable vintage specimen would be welcome when it comes to an accessory for the leisure outfit and the aesthetics are in the foreground. However, the idea is doubly limp: older references often impress with their increase in value and are significantly more expensive. Moreover, the luxury brand remains true to its classics, but still adapts them discreetly.

For the diver’s watch’s 50th birthday, for example, a popular model with a black dial and grass-green bezel made its debut. The color accent evoked associations with Kermit the Frog and earned the Submariner variant this nickname. For its counterpart from the 2023 collection, the nickname “Starbucks” is more common – for good reason: the green resembles the logo of the café chain rather than the host of the Muppet Show. The aesthetic differences are joined by functional differences, as the manufacture has further developed the movement.

Purposeful sideways glances or alternative sources

Those who simply urgently need a wristwatch suitable for diving can turn to other manufacturers with excellent reputation. Breitling, Omega and Tag Heuer are appreciated not only for sophisticated diving watches. The brands offer some models that can be ordered immediately without waiting. The pragmatic approach is not up for discussion if you dream about a certain timepiece – for example, a Rolex Submariner no Date. However, you can save yourself the waiting time for it. For that, it is enough to look around the specialty store for Certified Pre-Owned luxury watches. The Uhrinstinkt store offers both options of buying watches and will be happy to advise you.

Admittedly: For the current catalog list price of 8,950 euros, you won’t find a mint Submariner with the reference 124060 anywhere. However, even the noble brand indirectly admits on its website that the catalog price is only valid in official boutiques and that if demand is high, you will have to go to the open market and expect higher acquisition costs.

The reality can be summarized briefly: New customers who want to purchase the “Diver with a crown” must be flexible and dig a little deeper into their pockets. Otherwise, the chances are high that the watch dream will not come true.

Image source:

Article image | By Si Griffiths – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=24380109

Der Beitrag Rolex Submariner waiting time 2023 erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Anyone who wants to realize their dream of owning a Rolex in 2023 faces a dilemma: eternal waiting times or astronomical prices on the secondary market? We explain how the infamous “waiting list” works, which models require the longest patience and which collections promise the highest chances of success.

Top secret: The Rolex unit numbers per year

The waiting times for a new luxury watch from the traditional Geneva brand are increasingly reaching absurd dimensions: It is estimated that today’s prospective buyer of a GMT-Master II “Pepsi” would have to wait 20 years to finally wear the highly coveted reference 126710BLRO on his wrist. Half a working life! The reason for these circumstances lies in artificial scarcity: On the part of the manufacturer, there are only minimal production increases, which are offset by a rapidly growing world demand for the most famous watch brand of all time.

Many people ask the question: How many watches does Rolex actually produce each year? Although neither the company itself nor the chronometer testing body COSC publish figures that allow conclusions to be drawn about the total quantity, the annual report “State of the Industry – Swiss Watchmaking in 2022” by Morgan Stanley allows a rough classification: 1.05 million watches.

By comparison, Omega produced a mere 570,000 units, Breitling 170,000 watches and Patek Philippe a manageable 68,000 timepieces. The fact that the five-pointed crown has the highest excess demand despite the proud output of Rolex watches per year demonstrates the manufacturer’s enormous popularity.

The waiting list myth: No trace of commitment

But what exactly would you have to do to get one of the approximately 1 million examples? The widely circulated term “waiting list” suggests a fixed order: You sign up with the dealer, he notes your wish, and in Geneva the orders are processed year by year. That would be nice! In reality, there are no longer any classic waiting lists or even binding order lists, but only “interest lists”. Many prospective buyers go to the concessionaire, let themselves be put on such an interest list and believe to have secured at least in the distant future one of the scarce Rolex watches. A mistake: Often hundreds of customers are on the interest list with the same dealer without ever having a realistic chance of owning the dream watch. Only the dealer’s binding confirmation of having moved up from the interest list to his “official” waiting list brings certainty.

To understand the “system”, you have to imagine three stations: Manufacturer –> Dealer –> Customer. The limited Rolex production per year is allocated to the different dealers in limited quantities. For example, a concessionaire or online store will receive 50 Submariners per annum, while perhaps only five examples of the extremely sought-after Daytona will go to the dealer. The dealer will most likely distribute his mini-quota among his best regular customers, leaving new customers empty-handed. Anyone caught by the dealer selling the new watch on the secondary market at two to three times the price immediately after purchase will be put on a “black list” and will no longer receive an allocation at the RRP in the future.

Up to 20 years: The longest waiting times

In plain language, these conditions mean: Customers have no power, but are supplicants and dependent on the goodwill of the dealer. The scarcity, whose greatest advantage lies in the absolute value stability of almost all of the manufacturer’s watches, is most extreme in the case of the iconic Daytona. According to current information, anyone who wants to buy the embattled stainless steel reference 116500LN at MSRP will have to wait around 20 years. Comparatively, the 12-year wait for a “Trabi” from the former GDR seems almost humane. If you prefer the double time zone of the Rolex GMT-Master II, the black-blue “Batman” is a faster alternative to the red-blue “Pepsi”: Not 20, but 7 years of patience are to be expected. For each model, the question naturally arises: how many watches does Rolex produce? We suspect a negative correlation, at least in part: The lower the output, the higher the waiting time.

Other models with long waiting periods include the coveted Submariner “Hulk” (Ref. 116610LV), which takes around 4 years from expression of interest to unboxing, and the extremely water-resistant Deepsea 126660: newly released in 2022, the 3,900-meter-deep diving Goliath takes around three years to arrive. The same goes for the brand’s most functionally complex watch: new customers must have at least 36 months of toughness for a Rolex Sky-Dweller in steel and white gold (ref. 326934).

Which models are available the fastest?

The good news is that not all models require astronomical staying power, as evidenced by the extremely popular Datejust 41 in particular. An average of three to twelve months waiting time is on a moderate new car level, with steel models typically requiring more patience compared to prestige models. A regularity that applied to all Rolex watches until a few years ago, but is blurring as demand surges. Bicolor editions (Rolesor) have also always been known for the shortest waiting times, but are currently gaining popularity.

Other editions that don’t require superhuman patience from the new buyer include the adventurous Explorer II (averaging one year), the nautical Yachtmaster I and II collections (6 to 18 months), and the timeless basic Oyster model with a 6 to 12 month wait. The Air King and Milgauss series should also be on your wrist after one year at the latest. These figures are approximate at the time of this article’s publication (March 2023), are not a guarantee, and may shift by leaps and bounds in the future.

Certified Pre-Owned: Alternative to the waiting period

But let’s be honest: Even the “moderate” 12-month waiting period does not bring joy to any watch lover. The focus should not be on the question “How many watches does Rolex produce per year?” but on finding solutions. Our recommendation is to purchase used models that are popular but have not fallen victim to any “Pepsi” style hype. Online stores such as Uhrinstinkt, for example, carry an assortment of certified pre-owned models that are checked for full functionality by a professional watchmaker before being sold.

Especially the Oyster, Datejust and Milgauss editions are still partially in a price range as “Certified Pre-Owned”, which is not light years away from the RRP. Daytonas and GMT-Masters II, on the other hand, demand immense premiums from their buyers, even on the used market, compared to the manufacturer’s prices. The biggest advantage of buying pre-owned is that there is no waiting time: you get your dream watch immediately and can sell it at any time without fear of blacklisting, thus fully benefiting from value increases.

In short, how many watches does Rolex produce per year?

Estimates suggest that Rolex manufactures just over one million watches per year. Which model, how often per year is manufactured, is very different. Although the company does not disclose figures, it is safe to assume that the brand with the crown keeps supply tight. Currently, there is no recovery in the excess demand on the market for the watches of the Geneva brand. If the situation relaxes in the future, we will keep you informed.

Der Beitrag How many watches Rolex produces a year erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

The affordable alternative? For many watch lovers, Tudor has long ceased to be overshadowed by its parent brand. The models of the Rolex sister are becoming more independent and self-confident, winning one design prize after another. Black Bay, Royal and Co. – how the most popular models fare in a direct comparison of Tudor vs. Rolex, Uhrinstinkt explains today.

Image, quality, value stability: general differences

Since Tudor’s founding in 1926 by Rolex father Hans Wilsdorf, the brand image has been a double-edged sword: while the objective quality standards are identical except for minimal sacrifices in detail and the watches enjoy a good reputation as robust all-rounders, wicked tongues speak of “wannabe Rolex watches.” But the picture has changed: While the timepieces with the shield as a logo used to bear an extreme resemblance to their models, the Black Bay launch in 2012 at the latest has ensured a clear demarcation.

In the Tudor vs. Rolex comparison, the parent brand is the same synonym for status and success as it was 50 years ago, while the daughter has gained a cool, almost youthful reputation. Brand faces like David Beckham and Lady Gaga fuel the young image. Even in terms of value stability, the cards have been reshuffled: although Rolex watches enjoy legendary, almost unrivaled resalability throughout the watch world, many top models of the “cheaper alternative,” such as the popular 58, have now been able to match the value retention of the parent brand.

Diving Watches: Black Bay’s rise to the Champions League

No other Rolex watch is more associated with hype and waiting lists than the Submariner. First presented in 1953, the diver icon is getting a major update in 2020: Above all, the automatic caliber 3230 with Chonergy escapement and 70 hours of power reserve are among the technical highlights of the Submariner, along with 300 meters of water resistance. Lucky owners who either have to put up with long waiting times or significant secondary market surcharges can also rejoice over the particularly resistant 904L (“Oystersteel”) stainless steel alloy. The list price of the steel variant without date is slightly above the 8,000 euro mark, making the 3,000 to 4,000 euros of comparable Black Bays in the Tudor vs. Rolex duel look like a bargain. What trade-offs do buyers have to make?

Surprisingly few. 200 instead of 300 meters of water resistance and a slightly reduced, but still first-class quality feel mark the most obvious differences. Tudor’s counterpart also lacks the Submariner’s popular quick-set strap. The remaining differences are of a subjective nature: Snowflake instead of Mercedes hands as well as other color combinations are the most prominent differences and are contrasted by amazing technical similarities. Whether it’s the 41-millimeter diameter, 70-hour endurance, or the chronometer certificate, the case and the MT5602 caliber resemble the Submariner in key characteristics. Overall, the Submariner has the edge in the Tudor vs. Rolex battle, but the price-performance ratio is crystal clear on Tudor’s side.

Chronographs: Legend vs. newcomer

The name Daytona is synonymous with a horological icon: enthusiasts pay three times the list price of around 13,000 euros (steel model) to obtain one of the rare examples. The huge market values mainly represent the status of the legendary Rolex model rather than its technology. While 904 stainless steel and 72 hours of power from a manufacture caliber 4130 mark clear advantages, potential disadvantages lie in the lack of a date and the concealed movement by the solid caseback. The Black Bays in the Chrono collection also have the latter, but for a fraction of the Daytona price (around 5,000 euros), they offer a very strong overall package. Not only the chronometer-certified caliber M5813 based on the renowned Breitling B01 with 70 hours of power reserve, but also the double water resistance compared to the Daytona (200 meters) speak for the newcomer.

The extent of the similarities is surprising: Both alternatives offer black and white color combinations, catch the eye with color-contrasting totalizers, and don’t deliver much difference in the design of the steel bracelet. The Chrono lacks an hour counter, but unlike the Cosmograph Daytona, it has a date. Minor details compared to a much bigger question in the Tudor vs. Rolex duel: do you prefer iconic celebrities or a premium all-rounder at a fair price? If the former, even the best Tudor will never come close to the legend status of a Daytona.

GMT watches: Tudor vs. Rolex in the prestige segment

Pepsi, Batman, Kermit: The color combinations of the GMT-Master II are just as prominent as the model series itself. If you want to call the two-time zone Rolex your own, you’ll get the classic with a 3285 automatic movement of the latest generation (70-hour rate, Parachrom hairspring, etc.) and have to shell out at least 20,000 euros on the secondary market. In comparison, the approximately 4,000 euros for the GMT Black Bays from Tudor seem like a gift, but it gets even better: 200 instead of 100 meters of water resistance, a chronometer automatic movement with the same endurance as the GMT-Master II and, above all, the optical similarity astonish us positively.

Unlike the “Pepsi”, the blue-red bezel is not made of the (almost) indestructible ceramic, but of aluminum, but it is successfully modeled on the look of the prototype. The black dial with its indices also unites the in-house rivals. Of all the comparisons in our Tudor vs Rolex duel, the aesthetic similarities between these two heavyweights are the most obvious. Apart from the historical prestige and proud name of the GMT-Master II and its qualitative perfection, which Tudor’s counterpart fulfills to a perceived 95 percent, few objective arguments speak in favor of the parent brand.

Day-Date Classic: President vs. Royal Competition

It’s majestic in our last Tudor vs. Rolex battle: the legendary Day-Date with the five-pointed crown goes up against the literally “royal” newcomer from the subsidiary brand. Admittedly, it’s a difficult Rolex-Tudor comparison: while the “President” enters the race with iconic features (fluted bezel and cyclops magnifier) as well as an unparalleled history of prominent owners, Tudor’s counterpart is a newcomer without history. A prestigious “President” in gold costs tens of thousands of euros, while the Royal comes to the wrist at an affordable 2,000 to 3,000 euros. The Rolex model ticks with mechanics from its own manufacture (3255), while its little sister uses bought-in Sellita movements.

Why the comparison at all, if the differences are so overwhelming? The reason for our comparison lies in the unmistakable similarity: Although the fluted bezel has been transformed into a knurled one, the written-out day of the week at 12 o’clock, the Roman numerals and the date on the three o’clock immediately remind us of the President. The royal sister lacks the cult factor, but those who want to experience the elegance of the legendary model at affordable conditions will not find a better price-performance ratio anywhere.

Der Beitrag Tudor vs Rolex erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

They make the headlines, sometimes demand considerable waiting times, and are the talk of the town among enthusiasts: hype watches. The celebrities of the horological universe do not enjoy their popularity by chance, but have many highlights to offer, from historical significance to impressive technology. We show you the top 10 luxury models that have triggered watch hype in recent years and decades.

Rolex Datejust

Oyster case, cyclops loupe, fluted bezel: since its introduction in 1945, the Rolex Datejust has been regarded not only as the definition of a classic Rolex, but also of a timelessly elegant wristwatch in general. Since the turn of the millennium, watch hype surrounding the Datejust has been on a steady rise – the functional all-rounder is the dream watch of many enthusiasts and new designs are regularly added. Especially the new models from 2021 with palm tree or fluted patterns on the dial are currently highly trendy.

Omega Speedmaster

Moonwatch with unrivaled fame: Since the Omega Speedmaster accompanied the Apollo 11 mission in 1969, it has been one of the greatest legends in the watch world and regularly triggers watch hype when new editions of the icon are launched. 2021 was a big year for the Speedmaster, in which it was comprehensively modernized technically but left largely unchanged visually. Tachymeter scale, domed glass and white hands on a black background – the appearance of the Professional Moonwatch has an almost mythical status in the watch world. The compact Speedmaster 38 and the imposing ceramic editions of the “Dark Side of the Moon” also triggered hype in their respective classes.

Breitling Chronomat

Comeback in style: When Breitling brings back the Chronomat in 2020, the sporty pilot’s watch bristles with striking details. While the easy-grip rouleaux bracelet and the four horsemen on the bezel have been adopted from its historic ancestors, the renowned B01 chronograph movement is a new addition to the powerful collection. If you want to take the retro charm to the extreme, order a bicolor model in stainless steel and 18-karat rose gold. Also affected by the watch hype is the Super Chronomat, which brings 44 instead of 42 millimeters of diameter to the wrist and even has a four-year calendar if desired.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Eight corners, tapisserie dial, and hype matched only by Patek Philippe’s Nautilus in the high-end class: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has been playing in its own league for over 40 years. Immediate euphoria may not have spread when the world’s first luxury-class stainless steel watch was unveiled in 1972, but just a few years later, the Royal Oak was enjoying international fame. Ask enthusiasts about their absolute dream watch in the five-figure price range, and the name of the handcrafted work of art comes up more often than any other. With its large offshore variants, prestigious complications and numerous designs, the watch hype surrounding the Royal Oak will continue in the future.

Rolex Submariner

Supply and demand regulate the price: no watch model demonstrates the most important law of free markets more obviously than the Rolex Submariner. The world’s most famous diving watch transfers the timeless simplicity of the Datejust to the Diver format, causes a sensation with legendary color combinations such as “Pepsi” or “Hulk,” and demands years of waiting time from its owners. Those who don’t want to wait pay hefty surcharges at retailers. We are curious to see whether the biggest hype of the last decade will ever reach its end.

TAG Heuer Carrera

Hype watches with racing DNA: For many enthusiasts, the TAG Heuer Carrera is the flagship of the Swiss luxury brand and offers everything the horological heart desires, from the timeless sports watch to the technical gem with tourbillon and manufacture movement. In particular, the models with in-house automatic caliber HEUER 02 are a great success, which is due to 80 hours of power reserve and comprehensive skeletonization as well as the enhanced image that the manufacturer experiences due to its independent drives. In the summer of 2022, the hype watches will be expanded to include the Red Dial Limited Edition, which brings fiery temperament to the racing collection.

Nomos Tangente

When the young NOMOS Glashütte brand presented its first collections in 1992, one model in particular stood out: the Tangente. Despite all the additions to the product portfolio that the manufacturer has made over the past 30 years, it is still considered the epitome of the purist Bauhaus style for which Nomos is appreciated by all age groups. Clean lines, blued hands, and five numerals with unmistakable typography characterize the look of this all-rounder, while the manufacture Alpha movement ensures superior power. In the meantime, the NOMOS Tangente has grown into a proud family that includes neomatik editions and compact ladies’ watches with a diameter of 33 millimeters in addition to the classic hand-wound models.

Breitling Navitimer 8

The Breitling Navitimer undergoes a true revolution in 2018, when the iconic pilot’s watch collection is expanded in a striking way. This is because the Breitling Navitimer 8 does not feature a slide rule bezel, which has been the most striking visual detail of the pilot’s watch since its first introduction in 1952. The sporty, clean look of the newcomer appears in five variants, ranging from the noble Unitime with world time complication to the Navitimer 8 B01 with superior manufacture power. Later, the watch hype continues under the Aviator 8 designation, which remains part of the Breitling model family to this day and celebrates legendary aircraft such as the Curtiss Warhawk, P-51 Mustang or F4U Corsair with special editions.

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection

Perfect craftsmanship and technical super performance: Anyone who loves luxurious timepieces is either fascinated by Grand Seiko or at least pays their well-deserved respect to the Japanese high-end brand. Especially the Heritage Collection with legendary models like the SBGA211 “Snowflake” or the SBGJ201 “Mt. Iwate” is gaining increasing recognition on the German market, coupled with the uniqueness of its spring-drive system and the special shine of its Zaratsu polish. Quartz precision with mechanical winding – Grand Seiko’s decades-old drive system arouses the curiosity of both experienced and new enthusiasts, and meets good value for money in the face of sophisticated craftsmanship.

Tissot T-Classic PRX

If the case and bracelet form a unit, special watch shapes are guaranteed. Especially in the 1970s, the eye-catching tonneau cases broke with prevailing design ideas and transported icons like the Tissot PRX to the wrist. Since the modern form of the classic exists, there has been a real run on the affordable design piece. Quartz and automatic versions are available, all equipped with a whopping 100 meters of water resistance. The option to order an 18-karat gold bezel on the retro icon also marks a highlight of the price segment. We are big fans of the automatic variants, whose 80-hour power reserve provides an additional reason for the watch hype surrounding the Tissot PRX.

Der Beitrag Watch hype about hype watches erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.