The Psychology of Wearing a Watch – Status, Statement, or Companion?

Why do people still wear mechanical watches when phones track time more precisely?

Status Symbol

For some, a watch signals achievement and confidence.
A Rolex Datejust or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak communicates stability, style, and a personal journey.

Statement Piece

Others express their personality with their watch.
A Hublot Classic Fusion represents modern boldness and progressive design, while a Longines DolceVita embodies timeless elegance and cultivated sophistication.

Companion

Many choose a watch like a lifelong partner.
The Omega Speedmaster embodies adventure and vision – and often stays on the wrist for decades.

A watch is not an object; it’s an extension of identity.

Personalities and Their Watches – Portraits in Miniature

The Collector – “Time as History”

He seeks stories, patina, authenticity.
His choices: Rolex Submariner, Patek Philippe Calatrava
His motivation: heritage, rarity, emotion.

The Artist – “Design as Language”

She values shape, colour, mood.
Her choices: Nomos Glashütte Metro, Junghans Max Bill
Her motivation: self-expression.

The Entrepreneur – “Clarity & Purpose”

He needs reliability and symbolism.
His choices: Tudor Black Bay 58, Grand Seiko Heritage
His motivation: precision, focus, understatement.

The Athlete – “Performance on the Wrist”

Strong, functional, dynamic.
His choices: Omega Seamaster Diver, TAG Heuer Monaco
His motivation: power & resilience.

The “Life Watch” – Why One Model Stays Forever

Most enthusiasts have one watch they never sell – and never want to.

Why?

• milestones

• identity

• emotional symbolism

• reliability

• a bond that deepens over time

Whether it’s a Tudor Ranger, Rolex Explorer, or Hublot Classic Fusions, some watches become part of the wearer’s story.

Watches Don’t Just Tell Time — They Tell Stories

A watch is one of the few objects that can grow with its wearer. It captures memories, reveals character, and expresses identity.

In a world that changes fast, a mechanical watch offers something profoundly human: emotional depth, connection, and the luxury of meaning.

Der Beitrag The Watch and Its Wearer: What Timepieces Reveal About Personality erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

NOMOS Glashütte Tetra

The Nomos Glashütte Tetra is the epitome of minimalist sophistication and has truly earned its place in our selection of top ladies’ watches. Its distinctive square stainless steel case exudes timeless elegance and modern charm. The simple dial with black Arabic numerals and slim hands offers a harmonious balance of simplicity and style. The reliable hand-wound Alpha movement ensures precise timekeeping with a touch of traditional craftsmanship. With its versatile size and understated aesthetic, the Nomos Glashütte Tetra effortlessly complements any ensemble, making it a timeless choice for discerning women who appreciate both form and function.

Zenith Defy Midnight Sunset

The Zenith Defy Midnight Sunset is a beacon of innovation in the world of women’s watches. With its captivating design inspired by the beauty of twilight, this exquisite watch effortlessly combines elegance with technical prowess. The shimmering dial with its warm color gradient, reminiscent of a radiant sunset, exerts a mesmerizing allure and captures the essence of celestial beauty. The Defy Midnight Sunset not only impresses with its aesthetics, but also with its precision mechanics and state-of-the-art materials, which give it a reliability and performance that is in no way inferior to its breathtaking appearance. A symbol of strength and elegance, this timepiece transcends the ordinary, offering women a sublime accessory that celebrates both their style and substance.

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy watch exudes a playful charm while offering the robust functionality expected of a diver’s timepiece. Inspired by carefree summers and nostalgic sweets, this watch features a delightful palette of pastel shades reminiscent of cotton candy and beach adventures. Its retro-inspired design, paired with modern technology, creates a perfect fusion of vintage aesthetics and contemporary performance. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy is a versatile companion for the modern woman who is equally passionate about style and adventure. That’s why it rightly deserves a place in our favorite watches for women.

Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36

The Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 is a bold and versatile choice among our best ladies’ watches. Its iconic design, characterized by a robust stainless steel case and the distinctive riders on the bezel, exudes strength and sophistication. With its 36 mm diameter, it is perfectly suited to a woman’s wrist and strikes a balance between elegance and functionality. The automatic movement ensures precise and reliable operation, while the stunning dial options, including mother-of-pearl and sunburst, add a touch of luxury. With its blend of sporty charm and timeless elegance, the Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 is effortless to wear across all occasions, making it a coveted accessory for the modern woman who appreciates both style and substance.

Longines Elegant Collection Automatic 39mm

The Longines Elegant Collection Automatic 39mm is a masterpiece that has earned a place among our favorite ladies’ watches. Its sophisticated design, with a slim stainless steel case and 39mm diameter, offers a modern twist on traditional proportions that is both eye-catching and versatile. The white dial with silver-colored hands exudes a touch of luxury, while the date window at 3 o’clock ensures practical functionality. The reliable automatic movement of this watch ensures impeccable precision and performance. With its seamless blend of modern aesthetics and timeless appeal, the Longines Elegant Collection Automatic 39mm is the perfect accessory for today’s sophisticated woman.

Der Beitrag The top 5 favorite watches for women of the Uhrinstinkt employees erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Grandes Complications from Patek Philippe, Royal Oaks Offshore from Audemars Piguet or a limited edition Bing Bang from Hublot: Almost worthless for many people are the investment tips of discerning watch collectors, because they fail due to the financial possibilities. The good news: watches that retain their value can be affordable, and historical examples prove that it is precisely the beginner models that like to turn into precious rarities.

The secret of high-yield watches – a flair for the special and connections to the good fairy

In 1963 Rolex launched a chronograph with a link to racing, which could not keep up with the highlights of the Geneva luxury brand at the time. The usual sales price of around 200 US dollars, which would correspond to around 2,000 euros today, was therefore moderate. Daytona sports watches caused a sensation in 2017 when a vintage example changed hands for $17 million.

Part of the reason for the record price was that it was an heirloom of Paul Newman, the legendary actor who was an avid racing driver and went all out as the main actor in the 1969 motorsport drama film “Winning” on the Indianapolis circuit. The icing on the cake for collectors with the right nose: Those who opted for the underestimated and therefore cheap sports watch early on can look forward to a value of up to 500,000 euros today. Of course, this is an exception that is more than stable in value, but Rolex, Omega and Co. still offer watches from time to time that watch investors enthusiastically add to the list. And of course there are always models that you own because a good nose already gave an idea of the surprise coup special increase in value.

Safe bet – design classics from Rolex

The story makes it clear how many factors beyond design, workmanship and technology ensure that a luxury watch not only retains its value, but also generates lucrative returns. “Waterproof” forecasts would be dubious as to which brand new model will impress with its increase in value in the future. What is clear, however, is that the classics from Rolex, which tend to be simpler than ostentatious, have shone as watches of stable value for decades.

The catch: Waiting lists make it difficult to access the popular watch collections, which are brand new and expensive. It is therefore clever to look for a used time piece from a reputable specialist dealer. Documentation and presentation are just as important as excellent condition. If you get hold of an impeccable full set, a discreet evergreen from Rolex will also prove to be at least stable in value – for example the purist Oyster Perpetual 41.

Adventurers from Omega with an everlasting power of fascination

When it comes to a watch that will retain its value, Omega is regularly referred to. The traditional Swiss brand has always inspired people with its pioneering spirit – in advanced watch technology and the conquering of new spheres. It shapes the Seamaster diving icon as well as the Speedmaster, which was the first wristwatch in space and on the moon. Classically designed representatives of the legendary collections are regarded as watches that retain their value. The Diver 300M Chronograph or the Professional Moonwatch are good examples of this.

Is there a thirst for adventure, daring to invest in a watch? The Speedmaster owes its current popularity to the fact that NASA certified it as “moonworthy”. In the meantime, Omega has managed to have a professional watch qualified for Mars expeditions by the European Space Agency. For example, it takes into account that the days on the red planet are 39 minutes longer.

There is currently little interest in the Speedmaster Marstimer with a multifunction quartz movement when it comes to investing in watches that retain their value. However, the Titan visionary could become a lucrative star if the first manned flight to Mars succeeds. NASA expects this to happen in around 20 years.

TAG Heuer – traditionally open to new ideas

In the portfolio of the manufacturer based in Le-Chaux-de-Fonds, you will discover manufactory watches that are reminiscent of the masterpieces by Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe in terms of craftsmanship and price. At the same time, TAG Heuer has a heart for luxury watch fans with smaller wallets. These models are often bought to be worn all the time. Because of the unavoidable signs of wear, these everyday companions are basically not stable in value in the sense of an investment. If you think of the personal benefit and the emotional bond, the investment pays off several times over. If you reach for unusual novelties, the used time indicators can still turn out to be comparatively stable in value at some point.

TAG Heuer was one of the luxury brands that ventured into the field of quartz watches with digital displays – with the sobering realization that cheap manufacturers soon copied the spectacular innovations. They often languished in drawers after excessive use. They are now in demand as a vintage statement and fetch surprisingly high prices.

It is quite possible that with the Aquaracer Professional Solargraph, TAG Heuer not only has its finger on the pulse of the times, but also the taste of the future. The “sundial” made of durable titanium, water-resistant to a depth of 200 m, supplies itself with energy. In this way, it pays tribute to the increasing awareness of a sustainable lifestyle in a forward-looking and timelessly chic manner, which could one day inspire watch collectors or retro fans.

Award-winning and irresistibly beautiful – watch collections from Nomos Glashütte

Watches that retain their value are not only found in Switzerland, but also in Germany. Those who know the profession are just as aware of this as they are of the long watchmaking tradition in Glashütte. The location was chosen by the manufacturer Nomos, which – like Hublot – is comparatively young. In contrast to the luxury brand based in Nyon, the East German company scores with a fantastic price-performance ratio.

When it was launched in 1992, the Tangente wristwatches did not receive the feedback they deserved for their design and watch technology. Nevertheless, they turned out to be watches of stable value. In the meantime, three times the original purchase price is paid for well-groomed debutantes. Experience shows that award-winning models can also increase in value.

This puts the spotlight on the Tangente Neomatik in platinum grey, which won the iF Award 2023 for its remarkably simple and flat design. In theory, the award winner has the best chance of distinguishing itself as a watch with stable value. In practice, one can hardly resist the temptation to take the modern beauty of Nomos Glashütte out of the leather case and admire it on the wrist every day.

Precious for life across generations – Frederique Constant

Cool calculators see the value-stable watch as an attractive alternative to the bank account, in order to build up reserves with as few losses as possible. Anyone who finds timepieces for the wrist to be practical above all will measure their value in terms of functionality and aesthetics, which are attractive in the long term. Frederique Constant scores on needs without expecting big investments.

Time, date, moon phase: the timelessly elegant Classic Heart Beat Moonphase men’s watches are informative. This information does not lose its value even in the advanced digital age – especially when it is displayed without resource expenditure thanks to the mechanical movement with automatic winding. Long-lasting workmanship is important to Frederique Constant. Nothing stands in the way of the grandson’s wish to wear the heirloom enthusiastically.

Der Beitrag Watches stable in value erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Frankfurt, Schramberg, Glashütte: the heart of the German watch industry beats in three cities and brims with diversity. From the engineering wonder of a Sinn special watch to the Bauhaus-inspired elegance of Junghans watches, the spectrum of automatic models is huge and competes against a Glashütte brand world that couldn’t be more varied. Our guide explains which automatic watches are the optimum for your taste and wallet.

Sinn watches: Professional instruments for every use

If you talk about automatic watches from German manufacturers, you can’t avoid the traditional company from Frankfurt am Main, which was founded in 1961. Worldwide, the company represents the prototype of robust, technically advanced timepieces for everyday life and the toughest operations. Up to 2,000 meters water depth in the automatic U2? No difficulty at all. Special developments such as the JAGDUHR 3006, the EZM 12 specially designed for air rescue services and the EZM 7 fire department watch demonstrate the enormous degree of specialization at Sinn. Although the company uses mostly bought-in movements from Sellita, which is why manufacture enthusiasts don’t get their money’s worth, it offers an unparalleled pool of ingenious developments in return. No other automatic watches from German manufacturers can boast the scratch-resistant TEGIMENT technology, the Ar-Dehumidifying technology to increase functional reliability, or the HYDRO technology, which enables mirror-free reading under water.

Target group: Technology enthusiasts, practically oriented watch wearers who are looking for a quality product for life are in the right place with Sinn. But beware: classics such as the Frankfurt Financial District Watches and the Pilot’s Watch 104 also cater to elegant preferences.

Junghans: Dedicated to elegance

German automatic watches with a real “gentleman” factor are made in the small town of Schramberg in Baden-Württemberg, where Junghans has been manufacturing its quality mechanical products since 1861. Compared to Sinn, the manufacturer prioritizes aesthetic considerations in its most famous models: Max Bill watches, the Junghans Meister collection and other lines stand for minimalism, Bauhaus charm and domed watch glass with maximum recognition value.

From a functional perspective, few automatic watches from German manufacturers in this price segment are more exciting: the Meister Worldtimer has made the world time watch affordable, the Meister Gangreserve has established a completely new representation of the remaining automatic power, and the iconic Max Bill Automatic needs no explanation at all. Relative to Sinn, the entry into the world of automatics is more affordable: while the Frankfurt-based company starts at around 1,000 euros with the 556 model series, the Schramberg-based company has a chic basic model in its lineup for around 700 euros with the Form A watch.

Target group: Traditionalists who appreciate a timeless look and can do without German manufacture movements will get their money’s worth with Junghans watches. The variety of colors and functions is excellent for both sexes.

Glashütte: Where does the journey begin in the German watch mecca?

By far the largest variety of automatic watches from German manufacturers is produced in the Müglitz Valley in Saxony: Typical identifying features such as decentralized dials and the large panorama date extend through all price ranges – from the entry-level secret tip Bruno Söhnle to Germany’s most exclusive watch manufacturer, A. Lange & Söhne. Bruno Söhnle is one of those manufacturers that many buyers don’t have on their radar, despite an incredibly interesting automatic range. Wrongly so! Especially the collections Pesaro II, Munich and Stuttgart are a prime example of local elegance. Exceptional rarities like the Rondo Automatic Regulator stand for traditional design at a fair price and clearly stand out from the crowd. Although so-called “atelier calibers” with their own modifications and decorations are built into more upscale models, anyone looking for complete German manufacture movements should knock on Nomos Glashütte’s door in the neighborhood.

Nomos: Manufacture automatic watches in a unique style

Like Junghans, the brand, founded in 1990, draws much of its inspiration from the Bauhaus style that shaped its four basic collections: the Tangente, Orion, Ludwig, and Tetra. What excites us most about Nomos is the affordability of genuine manufacture movements like the DUW 3001 in the Club Campus Neomatik 39: no other automatic watches from German manufacturers offer fully in-house mechanics below the 2,000-euro mark that also feature the in-house developed assortment (“Swing System”). A cream puff for technology maniacs! Compared to the likewise in-house hand-wound movements, however, the percentage price surcharges are hefty, which is why we recommend taking a look at the variants without a rotor.

Mühle and Union: Renaissance Glashütte traditional brands

If you want to wear a German watch with a nautical tradition dating back to the 19th century, Mühle Glashütte is the right choice: Compared to Nomos, the self-winding calibers, such as the SW-200 in the Teutonia II Medium, are bought in, but are more affordable in return. The Panova three-hand watch brings endless character to the wrist in three-digit spheres and is one of our absolute watch favorites from Germany.

Those who prefer professionalism to elegance benefit from the nautical experience at Mühle: models like the S.A.R. Rescue Timer withstand the toughest conditions, while the chronographs are powerful masculine statements. The Teutonia Sport I in particular deserves a closer look.

If you want to experience your automatic watches from German manufacturers in classic beauty and without frills, you can’t miss the Union Glashütte range. Timeless dress watches like the Viro Datum, Noramis and Seris are the hobbyhorse of the brand founded in 1893 by entrepreneurial genius Johannes Dürrstein. But there’s another way: if you love edgy watches with the exotic factor, you couldn’t wear a more original design legend than the Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph Moonphase.

High-end with a German touch

We’ve talked a lot about affordable automatic watches from German manufacturers, but the domestic watch industry also dominates the upper end of the spectrum with two top manufactures: Glashütte Original and A. Lange & Söhne. At first glance, the similarities can be striking; especially the dials of the luxury Pano Edition and Lange 1 collections seem like siblings. The difference lies in the price range: if you want to wear perfect luxury in the traditional style of Saxon watchmaking, you buy an original and get a top-notch overall package with a very good price-performance ratio, from the manufacture movement to the finest ornaments. Those who spend an average of 5,000 to 15,000 euros for a Glashütte Original receive quality standards that surpass even Swiss contenders like Omega and Breitling.

It’s hard to imagine Lange & Söhne playing in a different league again. The fact is: the high-end luxury brand produces the most exclusive, elaborate and in every respect spectacular hand-wound and automatic watches from German manufacturers. Only 5,000 units are produced per year, each one meticulously assembled, disassembled and reassembled by hand to ensure a level of perfection that has no equal in this country. The manufacture also sets technical standards: most watch experts worldwide agree that the Datograph ticks the best chronograph movement of all time. The pleasure begins at around 20,000 euros for the simplest Saxonia with three hands.

Der Beitrag German manufacturer automatic watches in comparison erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Gérald Genta, Max Bill, Richard Orlinski: the most famous watch designers of all time are inextricably linked with their masterpieces, some of which have been causing excitement on our wrists for decades. Other design watches come from the pens of talents who are rather unknown outside the watch world. We take a look behind the facades of six of the most prominent creations of our time and illuminate the minds behind their success.

Junghans Max Bill

Bauhaus in its purest form: when Swiss architect, painter and sculptor Max Bill was commissioned by Junghans in the mid-1950s to design a kitchen clock, he gave top priority to perfect legibility and created a dial whose sober and simple design remains legendary to this day. In 1961, the corresponding wristwatch followed, immediately adopting the succinct name of its creator and becoming the German watch legend par excellence: for over 60 years, the Junghans Max Bill has been a best-seller and today’s collection holds more design watches than ever before. Whether men or women, quartz or automatic, chronograph or radio-controlled watch: the purist icon from the Black Forest draws old and young into its wake and is the ultimate flagship of the traditional brand. One of our absolute favorites is the Max Bill Chronoscope with black dial (Ref. 027/4601.02), which discreetly packs its stop function and has an extremely noble aesthetic in its dark design. The latter is further enhanced by the domed case and crystal shape, which makes each Max Bill stand out from the crowd.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Stainless steel watches in the luxury segment? Unthinkable before the introduction of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972. The iconic design watch was created by Swiss Gérald Genta, a freelance designer in 1970, who was commissioned by Audemars Piguet to create an entirely new waterproof sports watch. Within 24 hours, Genta delivers the revolutionary result: never before had design watches had an octagonal bezel with visible screws and nestled on the wrist with an integrated bracelet. Initially, success was limited because, despite its steel case, the designer watch was more expensive than many a gold watch of the 1970s. But in the decades that followed, the Royal Oak became the most successful high-end sports watch of all time, was given a beefy sister model in the form of the Royal Oak Offshore, and became the aesthetic model for countless other designer watches. For example, for the Patek Philippe Nautilus, introduced in 1976, which Gérald Genta is said to have drawn on a napkin in less than five minutes.

Nomos Glashütte Metro

German Design Award, Red Dot, Good Design: Within a short time of its unveiling in 2014, the Nomos Glashütte Metro clears some of the most important design prizes in our country. Dubbed a “classic of the future” by the manufacturer, the timeless piece owes its success to Berlin-based Mark Braun. He has been a professor at the Hochschule für Bildende Künste Saar since 2015 and can look back on numerous collaborations with renowned brands – from Viennese crystal glass manufacturer Lobmeyr to furniture manufacturers such as Hartô or E15. With the Metro, Mark Braun has created a design watch that stands out expressively from the rest of the Nomos range. Not only the fine knurled pattern on the crown and the applied lugs, but also the literally “spot-on” dial gives the design watches a modern yet classically elegant character. In the meantime, the collection has grown to over ten variants, ranging from the classic to the luxury model in 18-karat rose gold. Whether you prefer the designer watch with a hand-wound or automatic movement is a matter of taste.

Nomos Glashütte Autobahn

Werner Aisslinger is not only one of the most important designers of our time, but also a self-confessed lover of high speeds. The fact that the internationally recognized artist likes things to be fast and sporty is reflected in the name and appearance of the Nomos Glashütte Autobahn: while the centrally positioned, concise luminous ring is reminiscent of the aesthetics of a tachometer, the curved edge of the dial marks a reminiscence of the north curve of the Berlin Avus for Aisslinger. Paired with the wide date window at six o’clock and the clear typography, the overall look of the design watches conveys pure sportiness while maintaining the simplicity typical of Nomos. What looks harmless during the day comes to life spectacularly in the dark thanks to the expansive luminous material. Just as the German autobahns with their boundless freedom mark an international peculiarity, the Nomos Glashütte is unique in the watch world. No doubt about it: this designer watch by Werner Aisslinger will continue on its successful course for many years to come.

Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski Titanium White Alternative Pave 40 mm

What does a wristwatch from the pen of an internationally renowned sculptor and pop artist look like? Hublot provides the answer with the Classic Fusion Orlinski Titanium White Alternative Pave 40 mm (Ref. 550.NS.2200.RW.1604.ORL20): Like Frenchman Richard Orlinski’s famous animal figures, his watch captivates us with angular geometry and looks like a giant cut diamond. This is not a far-fetched association: the titanium case is set with 210 brilliant-cut diamonds, the bezel with an additional 54 of the precious gems. The bottom line is around 1.6 carats, which surround a comparatively simple dial in polished white. The same timelessness is adopted by the white rubber strap, so that the entire focus of the viewer is on the sculpture of watch case that Orlinski brings to the wrist with this design watch. Somewhere between vintage and neo-futurism, the aesthetics of these ticking works of art appeal above all to owners who do not want to disguise their wristwatch in permanent restraint.

Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II

The same applies to the design watches of the Hublot Big Band Sang Bleu II line (Ref. 418.CX.1107.RX.MXM22), which perform the geometric game even more brawny and imposing. The designer this time is not Orlinski, but Swiss tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Büchi, whose London tattoo studio Sang Bleu served as the namesake for the limited edition collection. Made of black ceramic, the model shown here has a mysterious, almost intimidating effect on the viewer and features pure futurism in the dial. After identifying the hands, glimpses of the automatic HUB1240 UNICO movement with 72-hour power reserve open up. Coupled with gigantic 45 millimeters in diameter, its aesthetic details make the Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II the eye-catcher par excellence and should be of extremely limited interest to watch lovers with a sense of restraint. Nevertheless, the bolide is a monument in the universe of design watches and shows what an enrichment prominent artists can be for the watch world.

Der Beitrag Top 6 design watches erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Elegance meets understatement: what makes simple men’s watches so attractive

Whether at a business lunch with the boss, on a first date or at the next coffee round with the in-laws: Even if you love flashy wristwatches, such as a colorful Hublot or oversized U-Boat, neat restraint is the better choice in some situations. Let’s face it: wristwatches cause other people to draw conclusions about our character. In this visual “quick assessment,” the wearer of a gold Rolex Submariner is sometimes labeled a show-off, while a discreet watch speaks to likeable modesty, a sense of elegance and, in some eyes, even higher intelligence.

Thus, for strategic reasons alone, plain men’s watches can be a smart move. However, a large number of enthusiastic watch wearers prefer the noble understatement out of their own conviction: Harmonious shapes, noble details and timeless beauty independent of any fashion make the dress watch an evergreen on the male wrist. Legendary gentlemen like Sean Connery, Humphrey Bogart or Marlon Brando cannot be wrong.

Maurice Lacroix Eliros Date 25th Anniversary

For the 25th anniversary of its beautifully designed Eliros collection, Maurice Lacroix spices up the classic with refined details. Two versions of the 40-millimeter stainless steel watch are available, of which the white dial (Ref. EL1118-SS00E-120-C) has a greater understatement factor. Those looking for perfectly plain watches for men might already find the design too exciting: Modern, elongated numerals and an alternating green-blue minute track give the Eliros a high degree of independence, while the date display at three o’clock increases its utility value.

Alternatively, you can opt for the blue dial with green and white inscriptions (Ref. EL1118-SS00E-420-C). With a slim eight-millimeter height, the polished case of both versions shows how coherent and comfortable dress watches should sit on the wrist. A technical highlight of the Maurice Lacroix Eliros Date 25th Anniversary marks its “Easy Strap Exchange” system, which allows the wearer to change the strap in a flash. In addition to the fine stainless steel Milanaise bracelet, the simple men’s watch comes with a leather strap in blue, which ideally matches the blue dial or the blue hands of the white version.

Junghans Meister Gangreserve

It is iconic, mechanically sophisticated and proves how confidently they design simple watches for men in Schramberg: The Junghans Meister Gangreserve. At 40.4 millimeters in diameter, the minimalist editions for gentlemen may not dwarf the wrist, but they lay great against the skin with their curved shape. The dial in particular captivates our gaze: where razor-sharp dauphine hands meet gossamer indices, the power reserve holds its namesake complication. Instead of displaying the remaining power of the J810.2 automatic movement on an ordinary scale, as 99 percent of watch brands do, the Meister uses a simple bar with a level indicator. Turning the plain wristwatch for men upside down, the back allows deep insights into the mechanics. Various color variants, each limited to 160 pieces, are available: if you’re looking for a watch in night blue, the Ref. 027/4114.02 will delight you with its spectacular depth of color, while the gold-plated Ref. 027/7113.02 exudes a touch of glamour.

NOMOS Glashütte Tangente neomatik 39 Platingrau

If a brand from Glashütte stands for simple men’s watches with a modern touch, it is NOMOS: above all, the Tangente, a bestseller of the young company since its founding in 1992, is a prime example of its elegant design. The new NOMOS Glashütte Tangente neomatik 39 platinum gray (Ref. 144) is a special highlight: Not only the technical masterstroke of accommodating the in-house DUW 3001 automatic movement, including swing system, in a 6.9 millimeter flat stainless steel case, but also the platinum gray finished dial catches our attention.

Paired with rhodium-plated hands and its signature serif numerals, the Tangente exemplifies sleek men’s watches to perfection. The silver-gray color spectrum continues in the polished and cylindrical case, which is known for its steep flanks and, at 38.5 millimeters, has the optimal diameter to harmonize with any wrist circumference. The NOMOS Tangente is delivered on a leather strap in black, which perfects its distinguished appearance and makes the Tangente the ideal partner for elegant suits.

Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT WHITE

Bell & Ross proves with the BR 05 GMT WHITE (Ref. BR05G-SI-ST/SST) that interesting and at the same time simple watches are allowed to deviate from the mainstream. Held in the typical aviation-inspired square design of the masculine performance brand including four sighting screws and integrated bracelet, interprets the masculine but reserved men’s watches in a self-confident way. The opal white dial, in particular, prompted us to include the 41-millimeter exotic in our top list: Restrained in design, it scores with exemplary legibility and is given just as refreshing a contrast by the bright red GMT hand as by the two-tone altitude ring.

But even those who don’t travel benefit from the strong overall package of the BR 05: while many plain watches for men as dress watches are not particularly robust, the Bell & Ross can withstand 100 meters of water. Generous luminous indices make nighttime reading child’s play. Buyers can choose between an integrated stainless steel bracelet, which is our favorite due to its tremendous coherence, and a sturdy rubber strap for regular outdoor use.

MÜHLE Glashütte Teutonia II Chronometer

Is there a simple wristwatch for men that corresponds to the prototype of cultivated understatement and timeless beauty? MÜHLE Glashütte answers the question with the Teutonia II Chronometer (Ref. M1-30-45-MB): 39 millimeters slim, the round and 100-meter water-resistant masterpiece shines with its enormous attention to detail: in addition to the stepped bezel, which creates a sophisticated interplay of light and shadow, the intricately guilloché dial with its concentric relief catches the eye. Applied indices in the finest finish complete the noble overall picture.

Inside the stainless steel case, precise mechanics with a certificate await the gentleman: every MÜHLE Glashütte Teutonia II Chronometer is put through its paces for 15 days at the Glashütte Observatory before being awarded the coveted chronometer certificate. Built in is the automatic movement SW 200-1 in the version Mühle with speckle neck regulation, date quick correction and stop-seconds. If you’re looking for simple watches for men, you’ll come pretty close to the ideal with the Teutonia II, which comes with a free choice of stainless steel or leather strap.

Der Beitrag Top 5 simple watches for men erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

Roman numerals to mark the hour indices are very popular, especially on classic watch models. However, the Roman 4 on watches often causes irritation when only 4 dashes appear instead of the IV. We have looked into the matter and have investigated an interesting piece of watch history for our readers.

Roman numerals stand for tradition and classic elegance

For the design of the indices on the dial of a watch, in the course of watch history, various options have become established, each of which has a different visual effect. The simplest variant are simple line or dot indices without further lettering. They are mainly found on watches with a decidedly simple and businesslike design and make the dial look particularly calm and uncluttered.

If the indices are labeled with Arabic numerals, this can appear modern, but also playful or nostalgic, depending on the font design used. In many cases, however, Arabic numerals are perceived as easy and clear to read because they are also used in everyday life and thus suit our visual habits. Roman numerals are more difficult for many people to read because they hardly play a role in everyday life today and are mainly found in historical documents, on inscriptions on monuments and buildings, or even on clock faces. The latter is mainly due to the fact that Roman numerals go particularly well with a classic, elegant design, such as is very popular for dress watches.

“IV” or 4 dashes: the Roman 4 on watches

If you take a closer look at a watch with Roman numerals, you might be surprised to see that the number 4 is not represented as IV, as you would expect, but by 4 dashes: IIII. Although there are also clocks with a “real” Roman four, but in about 90 percent of all cases, the 4 dashes can be seen in its place. It is a fact that this way of representation has grown historically and is not an invention of the present. It can be found not only on wristwatches, pocket watches or wall clocks, but also on tower clocks that are already several centuries old. A widespread explanation for this is that in Roman antiquity the letter I also had the function of today’s letter J and the V also served as a U at the same time.

In Latin inscriptions on older buildings or on grave monuments, there is still countless evidence of this today. The “real” Roman four could therefore also have been read as “JU”. This would have been an abbreviation for the name of the Roman god Jupiter, who in Roman mythology played a similar role as supreme god as the “father of the gods” Zeus in Greek mythology. To simply place his name abbreviation JU between the other, “ordinary” numbers on a dial would have been blasphemy and was therefore virtually forbidden by itself, according to the explanation often heard.

Alternatives to the Jupiter Thesis

As plausible as the reasoning may sound, there are some reasons to doubt the Jupiter thesis. One of the most important counter-arguments is that the worship of Jupiter hardly played a role after the decline of the Roman Empire. In addition, the subtraction notation, in which smaller digits written to the left of a larger digit are to be subtracted from the latter, only became established during the Middle Ages and is, moreover, hardly common in inscriptions.

Partly it is also argued that it is a tradition that goes back to early tower clocks. In these, the 4 lines were used, and this representation was later adopted again and again for reasons of tradition. However, counterexamples can also be found among early clocks.

Just a preference of the Sun King or more readable?

Another explanation assumes that Louis XIV of France, who became known as the Sun King, preferred the four-stroke notation and therefore insisted that it be used by watchmakers in his sphere of influence. However, it is equally possible that it was not an individual preference of the French monarch, but quite practical reasons for this solution.

On the one hand, there’s less danger of confusion with the VI, which is relatively close to the four on the dial. Especially on dials where the lower numerals are slanted or upside down, it’s certainly easier to tell the four and six apart at a glance if the Roman 4 on watches is not also composed of an I and a V. In any case, the tradition of the four-dashed Roman four has persisted in well-known watch brands to this day: You can see this on the Rolex Datejust 31 as well as on the Pearlmaster or Chopard’s LUC 1937 Classic.

Frugality or aesthetics: two other possible reasons

Other historians believe that the use of a four consisting of four strokes had mainly economic reasons. This is because in order to cast hour indices for a dial with IIII, the I must be cast twenty times, while four each of V and X are needed. It is therefore sufficient to make a single mold with four I and one each of V and X, and use them four times in succession to produce a complete set of indexes. This would not be possible with three I’s less and one V more, as would be necessary for the “correct” spelling of the four. Furthermore, aesthetic reasons for the IIII are also brought into the field.

Representatives of this thesis point out that a Roman 4 formed from four I’s on watches appears more symmetrical and balanced as a counterpart to the VIII on the left side. Which of the above theses is actually correct will probably never be clarified with one hundred percent certainty. Possibly, in different cases, different reasons were decisive. However, the topic remains a fascinating piece of watch history.

Der Beitrag Why the Roman four on watches is usually written with four dashes erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.

One of the greatest mysteries of the mechanical watch world is how to construct a precise escapement. Only a few companies possess the expertise to manufacture the extremely delicate assembly that sets the pace. In 2014, Nomos Glashütte succeeded in doing the seemingly impossible: After seven years of development and an investment of eleven million euros, the successful Saxon brand launches its own escapement, the Swing System, and gains complete independence in movement production.

What makes the escapement so complicated?

The escapement, also called assortment or regulator, is both the heart and the most complicated component of a mechanical movement. Acoustically characterized by the typical ticking sound, the escapement gives its timepiece its beat and consists of several components, all of which must have only minimal manufacturing tolerances. Otherwise, the precise display of the time would be impossible.

The main components of the assortment are the balance, hairspring, escape wheel and pallet, supplemented by other microscopic parts. The extremely thin hairspring in particular, which is increasingly made of silicon in modern watch movements for reasons of reliability and robustness, requires an immeasurable amount of effort to produce, which only companies with generous budgets can afford. The central challenge is the small format of the escapement in wristwatches – if the assembly is designed for larger timepieces, the implementation is far simpler.

Knowledge from a past time

The fact that Nomos came up with its own escapement, the Swing System, in 2014 caused quite a stir in the watch world. That’s because the Glashütte company couldn’t use existing literature or mathematical calculations of assortments – the latter didn’t exist. There were historical reasons for this: With the emergence of the first quartz movements in the late 1960s, many people in the watch industry believed that the mechanical movement had no future. They imagined an electronic future on the wrist.

Survival was in the foreground. After the end of the quartz crisis, the decisive knowledge about precise assortments remained with two companies: Swatch subsidiaries ETA and Nivarox. Those who wanted to build mechanical watches from then on had two options: The safe and relatively inexpensive purchase from the Swiss monopolist or the risky in-house development with unknown costs.

90 percent manufacture movement are not enough

It is understandable that, in view of this uncertainty, most watch brands in the mid-price segment opt for the safe route. In practice, however, this means that many of the manufacture calibers we know are not at all one hundred percent in-house developments – although most components are manufactured, assembled and checked “in-house,” the tiny assortment has to be bought in. Nomos Glashütte was in the same position before the Swing System. Since its foundation in 1990, the brand has gradually increased its independence.

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First from an aesthetic perspective – with the timeless Bauhaus designs of its original collections Orion, Tangente, Ludwig and Tetra from 1991 – and then from a technical perspective. The most important year for the brand was 2005, when it made its ceremonial step towards manufacture with the presentation of the Alpha movement. The latter enormously enhanced the reputation of the young brand in professional circles and contributed significantly to its recognition as a permanent fixture in the Glashütte watch world. A whopping 80 percent of the work on the movement is now carried out in the hometown.

Swing System from Nomos: The ultimate in-house technology

However, 80 percent is not enough to achieve the goal of complete independence from third-party sources – the Alpha factory’s assortment still has to be sourced from Switzerland. Only the Swing System from Nomos was to change this situation. In 2007, the vision of an in-house escapement was born when the watch manufacturer embarked on the mammoth task in cooperation with the Technical University of Dresden.

The advantage over previous decades: Complex computer simulations allow calculation of the interaction of all components that must mesh smoothly in the assortment. In addition to the structure, the materials are a central challenge in the Swing System. Nomos is receiving support from the Fraunhofer Institute for Material and Beam Technology in Dresden, which is driving the search for modern materials. Key roles on the way to a one hundred percent manufacture caliber are played by the young technicians Theodor Prenzel and Lutz Reichel, who help the Swing System progress from prototype to series production.

“Like landing on the moon”

In 2014, the mega-project is completed after seven years and over 11 million euros in development costs. The Swing System celebrates its glorious world premiere at Baselworld, where the experts cannot help but be amazed. Suddenly, Nomos is no longer one of many brands in the mid-price segment, but belongs to a small circle of elite watch companies that can mass-produce their own regulation system. How significant the step is for the company is aptly expressed by CEO Uwe Ahrendt at the time: it feels like landing on the moon, says the company boss.

Speaking of showcases, the technology made its market debut in the Metro hand-wound watch, followed by its gradual adoption in the rest of the product portfolio. Today, the Swing System is mainly represented in the middle and top of the product world, while most entry-level models are fired by the Alpha.

In which watches does the Swing system work?

To identify watches with the Swing System, you should look for the movement designation “DUW”: Common hand-wound movements with the in-house escapement are the DUW 4101, which is installed in the classic Nomos Glashütte Metro 38 Datum, among others, and the DUW 4401 used in the Tangente Datum Gangreserve.

If it has to be an automatic movement, we recommend the Nomos Glashütte Minimatik and the Nomos Glashütte Metro neomatik – both editions are powered by the DUW 3001 and are distinguished by their simple, reduced aesthetics. Enthusiasts can also enjoy the manufacture escapement in automatic watches with the DUW calibers 5201, 5101, 5001 and 6101.

Once the decision has been made in favor of the Swing System, there is of course still the big question of appearance. Those who prefer compact watch sizes should definitely get to know the Minimatik in night blue (Ref. 1205) with its 35.5 millimeter diameter – if automatic winding is preferred, we recommend the 35 millimeter slim Metro neomatik (Ref. 1114).

Der Beitrag The Nomos Swing System erschien zuerst auf Uhrinstinkt Magazine.